This good sport climbing venue lies close to Dumbarton Rock on an obvious volcanic plug overlooking the main A82 Glasgow to Loch Lomond road. A visit is definitely worthwhile, especially if combined with Dumbarton Rock. The routes climb the large and obvious overhang on the craggy face to the right of a huge quarry on the north side of the plug.
The climbs are generally short, powerful and very sustained, being about 45-50 degrees overhanging. Although the easier, less steep routes are well worth doing the routes on this crag are mainly in the harder grades and they offer excellent climbing, which stays dry, even in heavy rain. The rock is a clean, fine grained basalt which gives powerful climbing, often featuring undercutting and interesting footwork.
Most of the routes are climbable during dry periods in winter, but the crag does suffer from some seepage. The crag sees the sun from about 2pm onwards and can be hot in summer evenings. Midges are rarely a problem as the crag is exposed to any breezes. In general, March and April give the best conditions.
Buttress | Order | Climb | Grade | Stars |
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