This quarry thoroughly deserves its reputation as one of Scotland\'s most intense sport climbing venues. It faces due north and is situated on Balmashanner hill just south of Forfar. There is climbing on both of its walls. The left-hand is a small, vertical bouldering wall whilst the right wall is much bigger and steep! How the quarrymen worked at this angle is mind-boggling, or is the whole thing just leaning over more each year? The routes provide excellent climbing which is steep and athletic. The crag outlook is limited so don\'t bring the family for a picnic! Unless they like to crank really hard between their sandwiches, of course....
The climbs are entirely bolt protected, and finish with lowering off points just below the top. Please do not remove any of the in-situ gear as it is essential, especially at the top. Though most of the routes have seen some chipping prior to their first ascents, further chipping of these routes will definitely not make you any friends among the locals.
The rock at Balmashanner Quarry is a very compact sandstone, similar to that of nearby Legaston Quarry, although horizontal breaks are less common. The owner of the quarry is happy for climbers to use the crag at their own risk and sometimes comes by to watch the action. Please try to keep the profanity to a minimum, though this can be difficult when falling from the last move on Gravity\'s Rainbow!