Legaston Quarry

This extensive quarry lies north of Arbroath, near the village of Friockheim, just off the main A933 Arbroath to Brechin road. It provides a useful sport climbing venue for Dundee and the surrounding region and is especially popular in the summer evenings when time is too limited to travel to more distant crags. The quarry is sheltered and the main walls benefit from afternoon and evening sun.

Unfortunately the local farmer sometimes uses the quarry floor as a dumping ground, so piles of stones and other farm debris are often present in the place. It is usually kept well clear of the walls and during the summer is cloaked in a natural screen of vegetation. During the winter months the quarry can be particularly grim but several routes are often dry almost all year round.

The rock is very compact sandstone which was used extensively for local building. Horizontal breaks and pockets are common and this tends to give a reachy style of climbing, the ‘Legaston Rockover' being a useful technique on many routes. On the less popular climbs the rock can be dusty and sometimes lichenous but in the main it is solid and clean.

Almost all of the sport climbs have lower-off points at the top, an increasing number of which require threading with the rope and it is important that climbers are confident in their own ability to perform this safely before embarking on these routes. If top roping these routes it is important that climbers use their own karabiners rather than running the rope through the fixed gear, this will greatly prolong the life expectancy of the fixed gear, and hopefully those using it!

At present it is obvious that the same old routes are getting all the traffic. This means that many good quality routes such as Weasel on Rose Wall and the Babylon Buttress routes, when dry, are becoming overgrown. It isn't far to walk to these routes and it's worth asking yourself whilst on your umpteenth ascent of Between the Lines if it's not time to try something different!


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