Glen Ogle - Dark Side

Glen Ogle is a small but important glen which runs northwards from the village of Lochearnhead. It is the route taken by the main A84 as the major means of access to the Highlands from Stirling, 30 miles (50km) to the south, and Perth 35 miles (60km) to the east. At one point a railway which connected through to Oban ran through the glen, as can be seen by a fine 12 arch viaduct which is now part of a popular cycleway and walkway. On a visit to the far flung reaches of her Empire, Queen Victoria likened Glen Ogle to the Khyber Pass, through the Hindu Kush mountain range! Perhaps not as grand, Glen Ogle does have its finer points, and of interest to the climber are numerous crags lining either side of the glen. On the west side of the road those of the Dark Side are readily seen sitting above the former railway whilst those on the east or Sunny Side lie directly above the road and are more difficult to see.

The sun-starved hillside on the west side of Glen Ogle is littered with steep mica schist crags, holding a high concentration of sport routes. Since its development in 1993 and subsequent rather tongue-in-cheek label of ‘Scotland\'s premier sport climbing venue\', many of the routes have remained slightly neglected, although a hardcore of devotees has continued to visit. The neglect is a shame because many of the routes are very good. With the exception of Bond Buttress, the climbs are short, steep and devious. They give good, intense climbing and there is an abundance of routes at all grades. The hillside acts like a sponge and it takes several days for the crags to come into good dry condition. In summer the midges can be awful, so pick your days. The best time of year to visit is during a sustained dry period in autumn or spring, or on a windy day in summer. The crags only catch the sunshine until 10am, so early starts are a good idea. Many of the routes have a rather high first bolt which can be stick-clipped. Most of the crags lie up and right of the obvious viaduct halfway up the glen. The buttresses are described running northwards up the glen. All the climbs have been described left to right on their respective crags.


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