Garbh Bheinn

Garbh Beinn (885m) is one of the rockiest peaks on the Scottish mainland, with acres of gneiss slabs and a scatter of steeper cliffs. The whole northern arc of the mountain is craggy and very complex, falling to the curving glen of Coire an Iubhair. On the far left is the shallow bowl of Coire Garbh Bheag, full of slabs and dropping into an open Y gully. Right of this a grassy spur descends from the subsidiary summit of Sron a\' Gharbh Choire Bhig, broadening into the open slabs of Nead na h-Iolaire, up which Eagles Nest Slabs find a way. Right again is the large Coire Garbh Mhor, bounded by Pinnacle Ridge on its right and with the prominent Great Ridge directly below the summit of Garbh Bheinn itself. The latter is a classic V Diff with justly famous rock climbing on its south wall. Further right still the face swings round to a more northerly aspect, firstly to the huge North-East Buttress with its prominent slab, the Leac Mhor, then to the more amorphous but steeper North Buttress. Sron Lag na Gamhna is the blunt spur above the col between Garbh Bheinn and Beinn Bheag, then further right still are a deep gully and a two tier spur. The latter looks great from the Strontian road but fails to live up to the promise (still ok though, Grade 2). The whole mountain offers tremendous scope for exploratory scrambling apart from the three routes described. The rock is usually excellent, with both good friction and lots of positive holds.


Buttress Order Climb Grade Stars

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