Buachaille Etive Mòr

Buachaille Etive Mòr (1022m) is the dominant peak of the east end of Glencoe, and one of the best scrambling peaks in Scotland. The soaring arrowhead of the North-East face is made up of converging ridges of clean rough rhyolite, a mountaineers dream. Directly under the summit is the blunt North Buttress, set between the deeply cut Crowberry Gully to its left and the broader, more broken Great Gully to its right. Left of Crowberry Gully is the fin of Crowberry Ridge, with the steep Rannoch Wall as its left flank and Curved Ridge curling up below and left of it. Right of Great Gully is Great Gully Buttress, easier angled than the others, then Broad Buttress, then some broken ground with smaller buttresses and finally Lagangarbh Buttress, which is on the right hand end of the main face. Beyond this is the bowl of Coire na Tulaich, with Creag na Tulaich rising from the narrows at its mouth. The rock is mostly excellent, although rather poorer on North Buttress than on the other routes described. They are all mountain routes though and loose holds do occur, especially in Spring. The huge block at the back of Crowberry Tower is detached and the split between it and the Tower itself is getting wider – if using a rope to protect the descent into Crowberry Gap don\'t put runners into it! Although the face is large and complex the individual lines are fairly direct and mostly easy to follow once on them, but it is worth noting two common route finding mistakes. Failing to find the start of Curved Ridge and doing D Gully Buttress instead is one, and missing the escape right from the main chimney on North Buttress and finishing up the chimney direct is the other. Both let you in for climbing graded Difficult.


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