Tryfan is one of the most iconic mountains in Snowdonia and a home to many classic routes which continue to attract novice and expert alike. Whether it is your first lead on Little Tryfan or the Milestone Buttress, or a big easy Alpine day on Grooved Arete, these are routes to enjoy and will be remembered for years to come. The routes covered in this chapter are on opposite sides of the main bulk of Tryfan. The lowest crag of Little Tryfan faces west and is quick and easy to get to, offering an excellent beginners\' slab for practising multi-pitch leading.
The massive East Face presents a majestic but rambling mountainside which is clearly visible when travelling along the valley from Capel Curig. The routes start high up on Heather Terrace which is quite a hike to start the day with and already halfway up the mountain. The routes tend to sew together quality sections of rock with the odd scramble and ledge walk, but most finish pretty much on the top of Tryfan giving a real summit experience.
On the other side of the mountain is Milestone Buttress, home to some classic easy routes plus a small number in the mid-grades. For slightly harder routes, head to the Bochlwyd Buttress, where the rock is steeper and more demanding.