In complete contrast to the substantial vertical walls of Portland\'s west coast, the Cave Hole crags present a long stretch of squat sea caves and vertical walls that are tucked away on the far end of the Isle. It is a fascinating area, made up of a labyrinth of caves, ledges and tunnels that are worth exploring for their scenic value alone. For the climber however, many powerful routes cross the huge banded roofs whilst others take on the vertical ground in between and, although not much more than ten metres in height, the nature of the climbing packs in the moves. Today most of the climbing that takes place hereabouts is of the deep water soloing variety although there are also some massive bolted roofs that includes a couple of the biggest bolted roofs anywhere in the south-west. This is a great spot to spend time in the summer although the tide window is limiting and careful planing is required in order that enough water is present under the climbs to make them viable.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Memory Lane | Too Funky Beach Area | 1 | E1 5b |
2 |
Up, Up and Away | Too Funky Beach Area | E2 6b | |
3 |
Once Were Warriors | Too Funky Beach Area | 2 | 7c |
4 |
Too Funky For Me | Too Funky Beach Area | 1 | 6b+ |
5 |
The Big Boss | Too Funky Beach Area | E5 6b | |
6 |
Marine Boy Direct | Too Funky Beach Area | 6b+ | |
7 |
Marine Boy | Too Funky Beach Area | E2 5c | |
8 |
Godzuki | Too Funky Beach Area | E2 5c | |
9 |
Makin' Bacon | Too Funky Beach Area | E1 5c | |
10 |
Penny Lane | Too Funky Beach Area | 1 | 6a+ S1 |
11 |
Trashy's Traverse | Too Funky Beach Area | 1 | 6b S3 |
12 |
Eight Inches | Too Funky Beach Area | 1 | 7a S1 |
1 |
Desperado | Desperado Cave | 2 | E3 6a |
2 |
Psychoman | Desperado Cave | 1 | E3 5c |
3 |
Mike's Free Willy | Desperado Cave | 1 | E3 6a |
4 |
Lick of the Cat | Desperado Cave | 1 | E4 6a |
5 |
Pirates of the Black Atlantic | Desperado Cave | 1 | E2 5b |
6 |
Surface Tension | Desperado Cave | 2 | E4 6a |
7 |
Temporary Lifestyle | Desperado Cave | 3 | HS 4b |
8 |
Underlife | Desperado Cave | 1 | E2 6a |
1 |
Babes and Bedsheets | Ixtlan Area | E5 6a | |
2 |
Foxy Chicks | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E2 5c |
3 |
Reel 'em In | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E2 6a |
4 |
The Big Easy | Ixtlan Area | 2 | E1 5c |
5 |
Aquamarina | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E4 6b |
6 |
The Little Hard | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E3 5c |
7 |
Big Easy Arete | Ixtlan Area | 1 | HVS 5a |
8 |
Massive Amounts of Strength | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E5 6c |
9 |
Huge Reaches | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E5 6b |
10 |
Mad in Me | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E5 6a |
11 |
Lunge or Plunge | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E5 6b |
12 |
Ixtlan | Ixtlan Area | 3 | E2 5b |
13 |
Karma | Ixtlan Area | 2 | E3 5c |
14 |
Famous Genitalia | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E4 6a |
15 |
Mad About You | Ixtlan Area | 1 | E3 6a |
16 |
Greet Flying Scotsman | Ixtlan Area | E5 5c | |
17 |
Vicious Sea Splat | Ixtlan Area | E5 5c | |
18 |
Shot and Wounded | Ixtlan Area | E5 6a | |
19 |
Russian Roulette | Ixtlan Area | 3 | E3 6a |
1 |
Captain Haddock | Crab Party Area | 1 | E2 5b |
2 |
Gourmet Shit Traverse | Crab Party Area | E1 5b | |
3 |
Flipper Force | Crab Party Area | 1 | E3 6a |
4 |
Up the Grotto | Crab Party Area | E5 6a | |
5 |
Water Wings | Crab Party Area | 2 | E4 6b |
6 |
Ooh, Lovely! | Crab Party Area | 2 | E3 5c |
7 |
Out of Yer Shell | Crab Party Area | 1 | E4 6b |
8 |
Crab Party | Crab Party Area | 3 | E4 6a |
9 |
Andy Pandy | Crab Party Area | 2 | E5 6b |
1 |
Intimate Dancing | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 1 | E1 5a |
2 |
Descent Line | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | VS 4b | |
3 |
G-String | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | E3 5c | |
4 |
Robertson's Jam | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 1 | HVS 5a |
5 |
Spittle 'n' Spume | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 2 | E1 5c |
6 |
Bare Reputation | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 3 | E4 6b |
7 |
Under-Bare | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 2 | E5 6b |
8 |
Under-Bare Extension | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 2 | E5 6b |
9 |
Across the Water | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 2 | E2 5c |
10 |
Hooked Like No Fish Before Me | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 2 | E2 5c |
11 |
Always the Sun | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 1 | E2 5c |
12 |
Samurai in Autumn | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | 1 | E2 5c |
13 |
Smile Please! | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | E2 5b | |
14 |
Lateral Thinking | Spittle 'n' Spume Area | HVS 5a | |
1 |
The Green Bearded Roof | Waterfall Cave Area | 7a+ | |
2 |
Supergeek | Waterfall Cave Area | 1 | 7b+ |
3 |
Pilot of the Future | Waterfall Cave Area | 7b | |
4 |
Zen Zero | Waterfall Cave Area | 3 | 7c+ |
5 |
Breaching the Piece | Waterfall Cave Area | 3 | E6 6c |
6 |
The Lottie Dog Traverse | Waterfall Cave Area | 2 | E2 5c |
7 |
Zombie Nation | Waterfall Cave Area | 1 | 7c |
8 |
Air Hoodlum | Waterfall Cave Area | 2 | 7b+ |
9 |
The Cult of John Craven | Waterfall Cave Area | 1 | 7b |
10 |
Escape Route | Waterfall Cave Area | HVS 5a | |
11 |
Osaki Dolphin | Waterfall Cave Area | 2 | 7c+ |
12 |
Law of the Jungle | Waterfall Cave Area | 1 | 7b+ |
13 |
The Swinging Nineties | Waterfall Cave Area | 3 | 7b |
14 |
King of the Swingers | Waterfall Cave Area | 3 | 7c+ |
1 |
Prince of Tides | High Klicks Area | 1 | 5b |
2 |
Waterfall Wall | High Klicks Area | VS 4b | |
3 |
Escape From Davy Jones' Locker | High Klicks Area | 3b | |
4 |
This is the Sea | High Klicks Area | 4a | |
5 |
Carenza | High Klicks Area | 3b | |
6 |
Stone Bridge | High Klicks Area | 6a | |
7 |
The Shambles | High Klicks Area | 5a | |
8 |
Skylark | High Klicks Area | 4b | |
9 |
C.C. Backstabbers | High Klicks Area | E2 5c | |
10 |
Different for Girls | High Klicks Area | 1 | 5c |
11 |
Kisses and Lies | High Klicks Area | 1 | 6a |
12 |
Now, Voyager | High Klicks Area | 1 | 6a |
13 |
High Klicks | High Klicks Area | 1 | 6b |
14 |
100 Reasons to be Cheerful | High Klicks Area | 6c+ | |
15 |
Bachelor Boy and the SR 500 | High Klicks Area | 5c | |
16 |
Action Man | High Klicks Area | 6b+ | |
17 |
And Then There Were Two | High Klicks Area | 4b | |
1 |
One Cool Vibe | Octopus Weed Area | E3 5c | |
2 |
This is the Life | Octopus Weed Area | 1 | E3 5c |
3 |
Fly the Friendly Skies | Octopus Weed Area | 2 | 7c |
4 |
Seeing is Believing | Octopus Weed Area | 1 | 7c |
5 |
Tomar un Atajo | Octopus Weed Area | E2 5b | |
6 |
Uno Más | Octopus Weed Area | E3 6a | |
7 |
Walking the Plank | Octopus Weed Area | E3 5c | |
8 |
Keep Walking the Plank | Octopus Weed Area | E3 5c | |
9 |
Staring at the Sea | Octopus Weed Area | 7a | |
10 |
Underwater Love | Octopus Weed Area | 7a | |
11 |
Leave my Sole Alone | Octopus Weed Area | HVS 5a | |
12 |
Good Night, and Good Luck | Octopus Weed Area | 1 | E5 6c |
13 |
Final Transmission | Octopus Weed Area | 2 | E5 6b |
14 |
Guerilla Radio | Octopus Weed Area | 1 | E4 6b |
15 |
The Lip Traverse | Octopus Weed Area | 1 | E2 5b |
16 |
Magician's Trap | Octopus Weed Area | E4 6a | |
17 |
Purple Shorts | Octopus Weed Area | E1 5b | |
18 |
Octopus Weed | Octopus Weed Area | 3 | E3 6a |
19 |
Tentacle Master | Octopus Weed Area | 2 | E4 6b |
20 |
Previous Top-Rope Problem | Octopus Weed Area | E1 5b | |
21 |
Killer Loop | Octopus Weed Area | 1 | E4 6a |
22 |
Skeleton Surfers | Octopus Weed Area | 1 | E3 6a |
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