Blacknor Beach is well known for gentle seaside sport climbing and is often inundated with fledgling climbers making their first brave steps into an exciting new sport. Rather less well known is the collection of boulder problems scattered amongst the numerous gigantic boulders. The bouldering here has a serious feel about it and is not for novices or the faint-hearted. The landings can be rocky and serious so multiple mats and attentive spotters are essential. The rock is rough and occasionally sharp so your hands will take a beating. The lines are big and proud, and often committing - this is the 'Wild West' of Portland bouldering.Until recently there has only been a handful of sporadic attempts to develop the bouldering in this area. This guide covers the three areas with the shortest walk-ins, which, not surprisingly, have seen the most development, primarily at the hands of Marcus Dymond and Ben Stokes in 2014. Jimbo Kimber and friends climbed a few boulder problems whilst bolting routes at the Lunar Park, but these have been left for your own discovery.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Sharps Hazard | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f5+ |
2 |
The Edge of the Developed World | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | f5+ | |
3 |
Fairy Steps | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f4 |
4 |
Rough Dymond | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f7A |
5 |
Peg Leg Slab | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | f3 | |
6 |
Where Angels Dare to Tread | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 3 | f7A |
7 |
Shale Rider | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f6B+ |
8 |
Three Shale Mary's | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f6B |
9 |
Holy Shale | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f6A+ |
10 |
Shale Trails | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f4+ |
11 |
Not in Your Lifetime | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f6A |
12 |
He Who Hesitates | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f6B+ |
13 |
Hesitation Slab | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | f4+ | |
14 |
Don't Look Now | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f6A |
15 |
One You Can Do | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f6B+ |
16 |
Bleau Magique | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f7A+ |
17 |
Lucilla Rose | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f4+ |
18 |
Performance Anxiety | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 1 | f4+ |
19 |
Performance Anxiety, Sit-start | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f6A |
20 |
Highwayman | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f7A |
21 |
High Treason | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 2 | f6C+ |
22 |
High Plains Drifter | Diamond and Triple Slabs Area | 3 | f5+ |
1 |
Pause for Thought | Waterfall Area | 1 | f6A |
2 |
Fire Escape | Waterfall Area | f6A | |
3 |
Pythagoras' Theorem | Waterfall Area | 2 | f6C |
4 |
Scoop Dogg | Waterfall Area | 1 | f5+ |
5 |
Notorious P.U.G. | Waterfall Area | 1 | f4 |
6 |
Canine West | Waterfall Area | 1 | f5+ |
7 |
Beagle Smalls | Waterfall Area | 1 | f3 |
8 |
Procrastination | Waterfall Area | 1 | f5 |
9 |
Hankering | Waterfall Area | 2 | f6B |
10 |
Helmut Hauser | Waterfall Area | 1 | f6A |
11 |
Ramble On | Waterfall Area | f5+ | |
12 |
Copper Nano Tubes | Waterfall Area | 1 | f5 |
13 |
n-2 | Waterfall Area | 2 | f6C+ |
14 |
The nth Power | Waterfall Area | 2 | f6C+ |
15 |
The nth Degree | Waterfall Area | 1 | f4+ |
16 |
Spinal Traction | Waterfall Area | 2 | f6C+ |
17 |
Chancing Hernia | Waterfall Area | 1 | f6C |
18 |
Hydrophobia | Waterfall Area | 1 | f4+ |
19 |
Rabid | Waterfall Area | 1 | f6A |
20 |
Rostrom | Waterfall Area | 1 | f6A |
21 |
Aquatic Ape | Waterfall Area | 1 | f5+ |
22 |
Cetacean Transition | Waterfall Area | 1 | f5 |
23 |
Rise of the Tetrapod | Waterfall Area | 1 | f6A+ |
24 |
Tachycardia | Waterfall Area | 2 | f6A |
25 |
Tachycardia, Low Start | Waterfall Area | 3 | f6B |
26 |
Turning the Cheek | Waterfall Area | 1 | f3 |
27 |
Twerking Slab | Waterfall Area | 1 | f4+ |
28 |
Parkin Slab | Waterfall Area | 1 | f4+ |
29 |
Pure Laudanum | Waterfall Area | 2 | f6C |
30 |
Senna Pod | Waterfall Area | 3 | f6C |
1 |
Organ Grinder | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6B+ |
2 |
Tenacious D | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6C |
3 |
Rail Grind | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6C+ |
4 |
Early Exit | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f5+ |
5 |
Double Dip | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6A |
6 |
Fallen Hawser | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6A |
7 |
Easy Game | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6C |
8 |
Stan the Tan | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f5 |
9 |
Groove Rider | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f4+ |
10 |
Standing Wave | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f4+ |
11 |
Sambuca Nights | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f5+ |
12 |
Some Don't Like it When it's Hot | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6C |
13 |
Aniserete | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6B |
14 |
Quantum Tunnelling | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6C+ |
15 |
Safe Word | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6C |
16 |
Flaming Sambuca | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6B |
17 |
Bronzing Uranus | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6C+ |
18 |
Friendly Fire Over Weymouth | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6B+ |
19 |
Fire in the Hold | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6A+ |
20 |
Fake Tan Surprise | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f2 |
21 |
Love Handles | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f2+ |
22 |
Burning Love | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f3 |
23 |
Underworld | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f7A |
24 |
Damp Course | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6A |
25 |
Damp Rising | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6B |
26 |
Sanguinarian | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6A |
27 |
Blood Play | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6C |
28 |
Skin Flick | Fallen Slab Area | 2 | f6C |
29 |
Male Faecal Synchrony | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f6A |
30 |
Gone and Ruined Everything | Fallen Slab Area | 1 | f5+ |
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