Blacknor Beach

Blacknor Beach is well known for gentle seaside sport climbing and is often inundated with fledgling climbers making their first brave steps into an exciting new sport. Rather less well known is the collection of boulder problems scattered amongst the numerous gigantic boulders. The bouldering here has a serious feel about it and is not for novices or the faint-hearted. The landings can be rocky and serious so multiple mats and attentive spotters are essential. The rock is rough and occasionally sharp so your hands will take a beating. The lines are big and proud, and often committing - this is the 'Wild West' of Portland bouldering.Until recently there has only been a handful of sporadic attempts to develop the bouldering in this area. This guide covers the three areas with the shortest walk-ins, which, not surprisingly, have seen the most development, primarily at the hands of Marcus Dymond and Ben Stokes in 2014. Jimbo Kimber and friends climbed a few boulder problems whilst bolting routes at the Lunar Park, but these have been left for your own discovery.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Sharps Hazard Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f5+
2
The Edge of the Developed World Diamond and Triple Slabs Area f5+
3
Fairy Steps Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f4
4
Rough Dymond Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f7A
5
Peg Leg Slab Diamond and Triple Slabs Area f3
6
Where Angels Dare to Tread Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 3 f7A
7
Shale Rider Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f6B+
8
Three Shale Mary's Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f6B
9
Holy Shale Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f6A+
10
Shale Trails Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f4+
11
Not in Your Lifetime Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f6A
12
He Who Hesitates Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f6B+
13
Hesitation Slab Diamond and Triple Slabs Area f4+
14
Don't Look Now Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f6A
15
One You Can Do Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f6B+
16
Bleau Magique Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f7A+
17
Lucilla Rose Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f4+
18
Performance Anxiety Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 1 f4+
19
Performance Anxiety, Sit-start Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f6A
20
Highwayman Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f7A
21
High Treason Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 2 f6C+
22
High Plains Drifter Diamond and Triple Slabs Area 3 f5+
1
Pause for Thought Waterfall Area 1 f6A
2
Fire Escape Waterfall Area f6A
3
Pythagoras' Theorem Waterfall Area 2 f6C
4
Scoop Dogg Waterfall Area 1 f5+
5
Notorious P.U.G. Waterfall Area 1 f4
6
Canine West Waterfall Area 1 f5+
7
Beagle Smalls Waterfall Area 1 f3
8
Procrastination Waterfall Area 1 f5
9
Hankering Waterfall Area 2 f6B
10
Helmut Hauser Waterfall Area 1 f6A
11
Ramble On Waterfall Area f5+
12
Copper Nano Tubes Waterfall Area 1 f5
13
n-2 Waterfall Area 2 f6C+
14
The nth Power Waterfall Area 2 f6C+
15
The nth Degree Waterfall Area 1 f4+
16
Spinal Traction Waterfall Area 2 f6C+
17
Chancing Hernia Waterfall Area 1 f6C
18
Hydrophobia Waterfall Area 1 f4+
19
Rabid Waterfall Area 1 f6A
20
Rostrom Waterfall Area 1 f6A
21
Aquatic Ape Waterfall Area 1 f5+
22
Cetacean Transition Waterfall Area 1 f5
23
Rise of the Tetrapod Waterfall Area 1 f6A+
24
Tachycardia Waterfall Area 2 f6A
25
Tachycardia, Low Start Waterfall Area 3 f6B
26
Turning the Cheek Waterfall Area 1 f3
27
Twerking Slab Waterfall Area 1 f4+
28
Parkin Slab Waterfall Area 1 f4+
29
Pure Laudanum Waterfall Area 2 f6C
30
Senna Pod Waterfall Area 3 f6C
1
Organ Grinder Fallen Slab Area 1 f6B+
2
Tenacious D Fallen Slab Area 1 f6C
3
Rail Grind Fallen Slab Area 1 f6C+
4
Early Exit Fallen Slab Area 1 f5+
5
Double Dip Fallen Slab Area 1 f6A
6
Fallen Hawser Fallen Slab Area 2 f6A
7
Easy Game Fallen Slab Area 2 f6C
8
Stan the Tan Fallen Slab Area 1 f5
9
Groove Rider Fallen Slab Area 1 f4+
10
Standing Wave Fallen Slab Area 1 f4+
11
Sambuca Nights Fallen Slab Area 1 f5+
12
Some Don't Like it When it's Hot Fallen Slab Area 1 f6C
13
Aniserete Fallen Slab Area 2 f6B
14
Quantum Tunnelling Fallen Slab Area 1 f6C+
15
Safe Word Fallen Slab Area 2 f6C
16
Flaming Sambuca Fallen Slab Area 2 f6B
17
Bronzing Uranus Fallen Slab Area 2 f6C+
18
Friendly Fire Over Weymouth Fallen Slab Area 2 f6B+
19
Fire in the Hold Fallen Slab Area 1 f6A+
20
Fake Tan Surprise Fallen Slab Area 1 f2
21
Love Handles Fallen Slab Area 1 f2+
22
Burning Love Fallen Slab Area 1 f3
23
Underworld Fallen Slab Area 2 f7A
24
Damp Course Fallen Slab Area 1 f6A
25
Damp Rising Fallen Slab Area 1 f6B
26
Sanguinarian Fallen Slab Area 1 f6A
27
Blood Play Fallen Slab Area 1 f6C
28
Skin Flick Fallen Slab Area 2 f6C
29
Male Faecal Synchrony Fallen Slab Area 1 f6A
30
Gone and Ruined Everything Fallen Slab Area 1 f5+

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