The Lulworth area lies at the heart of the Jurassic Coast and is popular with visitors attracted by the remarkable scenery, fine coastal walks and beautiful beaches. The area is rightly renowned for deep-water soloing, but there is some excellent bouldering here too. To the west of Lulworth Cove lies Dungy Head. On the shore below Dungy Head is an extensive boulder beach. Some of the blocks, such as Church Rock, are massive and large enough for routes but there are around 70 problems on the more reasonably sized boulders. The rocky nature of the beach means that at least one bouldering mat is essential. Development of the problems has mainly been at the hands of Rob and Dan Kennard with more recent additions from Marcus Dymond.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Coracle | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6A |
2 |
Cobra Crack | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6A |
3 |
Cobra | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6B+ |
4 |
Mongoose Groove | Church Rock Area | 1 | f4+ |
5 |
Mongoose Arete | Church Rock Area | 1 | f3 |
6 |
Arete of Nails | Church Rock Area | 1 | f4+ |
7 |
Bed of Nails | Church Rock Area | 2 | f6B |
8 |
Shark Skin Prow | Church Rock Area | 2 | f7A |
9 |
Black Mass | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6B+ |
10 |
Crown of Thorns | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6B |
11 |
Grey Snapper | Church Rock Area | 1 | f5+ |
12 |
Coke Can Arete | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6B |
13 |
Wow Prow | Church Rock Area | 3 | f7B |
14 |
Bogey Face | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6A |
15 |
Out of Sight | Church Rock Area | 1 | f5+ |
16 |
Secret Identity | Church Rock Area | 1 | f6A |
17 |
Incognito | Church Rock Area | 1 | f5+ |
18 |
No Name | Church Rock Area | 1 | f3 |
19 |
The Dragon | Church Rock Area | 3 | f7A+ |
20 |
Left-hand Man | Church Rock Area | 3 | f7A |
21 |
Right-hand Man | Church Rock Area | 3 | f7A |
22 |
Pocket Man | Church Rock Area | 2 | f6C |
23 |
Pocket Rocket | Church Rock Area | 2 | f6A |
24 |
The Serpent | Church Rock Area | 3 | f6C+ |
25 |
Cloaca | Church Rock Area | 1 | f5+ |
26 |
Wolf Cub | Church Rock Area | 2 | f6C+ |
27 |
Arch Stanton | Church Rock Area | f4+ | |
28 |
Stanton Deliver | Church Rock Area | 2 | f6C+ |
29 |
The Eden Project | Church Rock Area | 2 | f7A+ |
30 |
Black Magic | Church Rock Area | f4+ | |
31 |
Voodoo People | Church Rock Area | f3 | |
1 |
Dungy Wall | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f4 |
2 |
Dungy Arete | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f4+ |
3 |
Dungy Arete, Sit-start | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6A |
4 |
Awesome Arete | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6B+ |
5 |
Awesome Arete, Sit-start | Dungy Head Beach | 3 | f6C+ |
6 |
Jade River | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f7A |
7 |
St Oswald's Wall | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f5+ |
8 |
St Oswald's Arete | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6C |
9 |
Spanish Archer | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6B+ |
10 |
Snail Slab | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6A |
11 |
Snail Slab, Sit-start | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6A |
12 |
Corsair | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6B |
13 |
Corsair, Sit-start | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6B+ |
14 |
Man O' War | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6A+ |
15 |
Man O' War, Sit-start | Dungy Head Beach | 3 | f6C |
16 |
Man O' War Arete | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f4+ |
17 |
Man O' War Arete, Sit-start | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f5+ |
18 |
Two Metres Squared | Dungy Head Beach | f5 | |
19 |
Two By Two | Dungy Head Beach | f5+ | |
20 |
Four Square Metres | Dungy Head Beach | f4 | |
21 |
Made from Girders | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f4+ |
22 |
Irn Bru Traverse | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6A |
23 |
Frank Sidebottom | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6A |
24 |
Front Bottom | Dungy Head Beach | f6C | |
25 |
Back Bottom | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6C |
26 |
Big Bertha | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f5+ |
27 |
Hurricane Bertha | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6B+ |
28 |
Junk in My Trunk | Dungy Head Beach | f3 | |
29 |
Junk Face | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f5+ |
30 |
Junk Arete | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f4+ |
31 |
Cat Power | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f7A |
32 |
Jurassica | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6A |
33 |
Static Crack | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f6A |
34 |
Peter Crouch | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6B |
35 |
Stick Stealer | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6B |
36 |
No Arete | Dungy Head Beach | 2 | f6C |
37 |
Cheese Arete | Dungy Head Beach | 3 | f6B |
38 |
Doing Time | Dungy Head Beach | 1 | f7A |
39 |
Exfoliator | Dungy Head Beach | f4+ |
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