A sunny and easily accessed crag, Les Gaillands is the polar opposite of most alpine routes and as such is a popular place for climbers to head when they fancy a day off from the stress and strain of mountaineering. The climbing style at the crag is quite unusual, with friction generally being quite low and most of the holds being pinches or side-pulls. The result is that the routes take a bit of getting used to and the grades can initially feel hard. However, the views are so stunning and the ambience so good that even if you have to drop a grade or two, Les Gaillands is well worth a day of your trip.The crag is not especially neatly bolted. Some of the lines, especially those on Le Petit Gailland, Le Grand Gailland and Frendo areas, are quite hard to follow. As such, we\'ve only marked the \'proper\' lines which can be climbed from top to bottom as logical routes and we have taken the liberty of naming some of these after the features they follow when there were no names recorded for them.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
L'arête | Frendo | 2 | 6a |
2 |
Gertrude | Frendo | 1 | 5c |
3 |
L'insoutenable legéreté de ma mére | Frendo | 1 | 6a+ |
4 |
Toutounet attitude | Frendo | 1 | 6b+ |
5 |
Maladie d'amour sexuel | Frendo | 6b | |
6 |
Dix-huit berges | Frendo | 2 | 6b |
7 |
Le Virofrêney | Frendo | 1 | 5c |
8 |
Lame de rasoir | Frendo | 6a | |
9 |
La Batson | Frendo | 2 | 6a+ |
10 |
Le dièdre Frendo | Frendo | 1 | 5c |
11 |
Dark Totor | Frendo | 1 | 5c |
12 |
La Raflée | Frendo | 1 | 6a |
13 |
Un géranium dans le dos | Frendo | 5b | |
14 |
Éperon d'Anna | Frendo | 6a | |
1 |
La cheminée des chasseurs | Chasseurs | 1 | 5b |
2 |
Finies les vacances | Chasseurs | 1 | 5c |
3 |
Barracuda | Chasseurs | 2 | 6c+ |
4 |
Petite fleur des champs | Chasseurs | 1 | 7a |
5 |
La Ckésia | Chasseurs | 2 | 6a+ |
6 |
Le surplomb à Zian | Chasseurs | 2 | 6b |
7 |
Jypsckey | Chasseurs | 1 | 6a+ |
8 |
Couscous | Chasseurs | 2 | 6b |
9 |
La Spitre | Chasseurs | 3 | 6c |
10 |
La Bollonaire | Chasseurs | 7c | |
1 |
L'arête des bûcherons | Forestiers | 2 | 5c |
2 |
La libérarable | Forestiers | 1 | 5b |
3 |
Nouvelle voie | Forestiers | 1 | 4c |
4 |
Moustikul | Forestiers | 2 | 4c |
5 |
La Daille à Dédé | Forestiers | 1 | 4c |
6 |
La Forestière | Forestiers | 1 | 5b |
7 |
Le petit toit | Forestiers | 1 | 6a+ |
8 |
La D | Forestiers | 2 | 5b |
9 |
La Michoquo | Forestiers | 2 | 6a |
10 |
La Vipérine | Forestiers | 2 | 5c |
11 |
L'arête | Forestiers | 5c | |
12 |
L'arête (Forestiers) | Forestiers | 5c | |
13 |
La Petite Marie | Forestiers | 1 | 5c |
14 |
La dalle | Forestiers | 6a | |
15 |
Le Compas | Forestiers | 4c | |
16 |
L'éperon Claret | Forestiers | 1 | 6a |
17 |
Dalle gauche | Forestiers | 1 | 6a |
18 |
Dalle droite | Forestiers | 5c | |
19 |
Le Sorbier | Forestiers | 2 | 5b |
20 |
La Polytechnique | Forestiers | 2 | 6a |
21 |
Le Marteau | Forestiers | 1 | 6b+ |
22 |
Le Facile | Forestiers | 1 | 4b |
1 |
La saintous | Vipères | 3c | |
2 |
Rattles Nakes | Vipères | 1 | 3c |
3 |
L'aspic | Vipères | 3b | |
4 |
Dièdre des pompons | Vipères | 1 | 4b |
5 |
Les terrassiers | Vipères | 3c | |
6 |
Les terrassiers (variation) | Vipères | 3c | |
1 |
La Braco | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 4c |
2 |
L'arête intégrale | Le Grand Gailland | 2 | 6a |
3 |
Le Coin | Le Grand Gailland | 5a | |
4 |
La Venger | Le Grand Gailland | 5b | |
5 |
La Cheminée | Le Grand Gailland | 3b | |
6 |
Voie Normale | Le Grand Gailland | 3c | |
7 |
Les Rings Argentés | Le Grand Gailland | 3 | 5a |
8 |
La savonnette | Le Grand Gailland | 5c | |
9 |
Pilier de la plaque | Le Grand Gailland | 2 | 6a |
10 |
La plaque | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 7a |
11 |
L'AD | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 5a |
12 |
La directissime | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 6a+ |
13 |
Petit Mur | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 6a |
14 |
La directe | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 5b |
15 |
Pilier de gauche | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 6a |
16 |
Le petit surplomb | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 5b |
17 |
La Cheminée des Guides | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 5a |
18 |
Monchus Left | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 3c |
19 |
Pilier des Monchus | Le Grand Gailland | 3 | 3c |
20 |
Pilier des Monchus Right | Le Grand Gailland | 1 | 4c |
1 |
Le toit direct | L'Echelle | 1 | 6a+ |
2 |
Le toit | L'Echelle | 2 | 5c |
3 |
Le mur gauche | L'Echelle | 1 | 5a |
4 |
Le mur | L'Echelle | 1 | 5a |
5 |
Le mur droite | L'Echelle | 1 | 5a |
6 |
La dalle concave | L'Echelle | 1 | 4c |
7 |
Pilier de gauche | L'Echelle | 4c | |
8 |
Le dièdre du facteur | L'Echelle | 3c | |
9 |
Pilier de droite | L'Echelle | 1 | 5a |
10 |
Dalle de gauche | L'Echelle | 1 | 5a |
11 |
Dalle de droite | L'Echelle | 1 | 4c |
12 |
Le droite | L'Echelle | 1 | 5a |
1 |
Le toit | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 6a+ |
2 |
Le dièdre Terray | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 6a |
3 |
Le fin pilier | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 6c+ |
4 |
Twenty Two | Le Petit Gailland | 4c | |
5 |
La directe Lachenal | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 6a |
6 |
Le Pilier Rouge | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 5c |
7 |
Le Mur | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 6a |
8 |
La Diagonale | Le Petit Gailland | 4c | |
9 |
Directe à l'arbre | Le Petit Gailland | 5c | |
10 |
Variante du Dièdre | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 5c |
11 |
La plaque rouge | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 5c |
12 |
La Zig-zag | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 5c |
13 |
La Zig sans zag | Le Petit Gailland | 6a+ | |
14 |
Le surplomb Martinetti | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 6c |
15 |
Les Lézards | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 7a |
16 |
Directe aux guides | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 6b+ |
17 |
La Franco directe | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 6a+ |
18 |
La Franco | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 5c |
19 |
La voie du golot gauche | Le Petit Gailland | 2 | 6a |
20 |
La voie du golot directe | Le Petit Gailland | 6b+ | |
21 |
Sur le fil | Le Petit Gailland | 1 | 6c |
22 |
L'Y | Le Petit Gailland | 5c | |
23 |
L'Y Droite | Le Petit Gailland | 5b |
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