Millstone Area

The Millstone area comprises several isolated areas of natural rock dotted across the moors above the large quarried crag of Millstone. There is the well-named Secret Garden hidden in the edge of the trees with its powerful roof problems. In complete contrast is the impressive monolith of Mother Cap which is constantly busy with walkers although the nearby Mother Cap Quarry has some more secluded bouldering. Hidden a stone\'s throw from Mother Cap is a block with some desperate rounded roof problems known as Mother\'s Pet Rock. The towers of Over Owler Tor offer pleasant vertical walls and aretes with a few steeper problems. The final area is the quarry of Millstone itself which is an altogether different proposition. There are no rounded pulls here, just delicate bridging on edges and technical laybacks up aretes on a set of well-spaced problems.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Mother Goosed Mother Cap Quarry 2 f7B
2
Flat Cap Mother Cap Quarry 1 f6C
3
Andy Capp Mother Cap Quarry 1 f6C
4
Dog Brush Mother Cap Quarry f6A
5
In the Night All Caps are Black Mother Cap Quarry 2 f7A+
6
Night Cap Mother Cap Quarry 2 f6C
7
Mama Slab Left Mother Cap Quarry f4+
8
Mama Slab Mother Cap Quarry f4
9
Mama Wall Mother Cap Quarry f3
10
Roundy Wall Mother Cap Quarry 2 f6B
11
Death Cap Mother Cap Quarry 3 f8A
12
Mantel Arete Mother Cap Quarry f6A
13
Left Wall Mother Cap Quarry f6B+
14
Cap Gun Mother Cap Quarry 1 f7C
15
Cap Gun Right-hand Mother Cap Quarry 1 f7C+
16
Caps Lock Mother Cap Quarry 1 f7A
17
Arthur's Bulge Left-hand Mother Cap Quarry 2 f8A
18
Arthur's Bulge Mother Cap Quarry 2 f8A
19
Capoeira Mother Cap Quarry 1 f7A+
20
PNC Mother Cap Quarry 2 f7A+
21
Right Arete Mother Cap Quarry f6B
1
Blue Cap Start Mother Cap 1 f4+
2
Mama-Mia Mother Cap 1 f4+
3
Elf Cap Start Mother Cap f6A
4
Oyster Cap Start Mother Cap 2 f6A+
5
David Mother Cap 1 f7B
6
Conan the Librarian Mother Cap 3 f6B+
7
Thin Wall Mother Cap 2 f6A+
8
Milk Cap Mother Cap 2 VD
9
Ink Cap Mother Cap 1 f4
10
Flat Cap Mother Cap 1 f4+
11
Dutch Cap Mother Cap 1 f5+
12
Easy Cap Mother Cap f3
13
Mother's Cap Back Wall Mother Cap f5
1
Walking Gingerly Mother's Pet Rock 1 f7A
2
Beefeater Mother's Pet Rock f7A+
3
Mother's Ruin Mother's Pet Rock 2 f7A+
4
Mother's Pet Traverse Mother's Pet Rock 2 f7A+
5
Mother's Pet Arete Mother's Pet Rock 1 f6B
6
The Blue Whale Mother's Pet Rock 1 f6C
7
Orca Mother's Pet Rock 1 f7B+
8
Porker Mother's Pet Rock 1 f7C
9
Mother's Pride Mother's Pet Rock 3 f7B+
10
Pet Cemetery Mother's Pet Rock 3 f7A+
11
Peaky Blinders Mother's Pet Rock 1 f7B
12
Ahab Mother's Pet Rock 1 f6A+
13
Mother's Pet Long Traverse Mother's Pet Rock 2 f7B+
14
Pots Win Prizes Mother's Pet Rock 1 f6B+
15
Top Shelf Mantel Mother's Pet Rock 1 f7A
16
Moby Mother's Pet Rock 1 f6B
17
Proper Grit Mother's Pet Rock 1 f6C+
18
Pets Win Prizes Mother's Pet Rock 2 f7B
19
Mini Mother Mother's Pet Rock 1 f6A+
20
Mother Rib Left Mother's Pet Rock 1 f5
21
Mother Rib Right Mother's Pet Rock 1 f5
1
Sailing Over Owler Tor f6B
2
Rod Stewart Over Owler Tor f5+
3
Owler Pit Mantel Over Owler Tor f5+
4
Teat & Tengmalm's Over Owler Tor 2 f6B+
5
Owler Single Ladies Over Owler Tor 2 f7A
6
Jet Over Owler Tor f5+
7
George Smith E7 Over Owler Tor f5+
8
Cutaway Over Owler Tor 1 f6C
9
Scrunchy Slopes Over Owler Tor 1 f6B
10
Slopey Scrunch Over Owler Tor 1 f5+
11
Lil' Arete Over Owler Tor 1 f3+
12
Wafery Flake Over Owler Tor 2 f6A+
13
Plop Wall Over Owler Tor f5+
14
Plop Start Left Over Owler Tor 1 f4+
15
Plop Start Right Over Owler Tor 1 f3+
16
Plip Start Over Owler Tor 1 f4
17
Flake Arete Over Owler Tor 1 f3
18
Roof 1 Over Owler Tor 2 f6C
19
Roof 2 Over Owler Tor 1 f5+
20
Left Tower Over Owler Tor 1 f5
21
Fingersplitter Over Owler Tor 1 f4+
22
Right Tower Over Owler Tor 1 f4+
23
Silver Arete Over Owler Tor 1 f4
24
Friend Slot Wall Over Owler Tor 1 f4+
25
Sisyphus Over Owler Tor 1 f7A+
26
Golden Arete Over Owler Tor 3 f6B+
27
Spider Crack Over Owler Tor 3 f6C+
28
Jawbone Over Owler Tor 2 f5+
29
The Eye Socket Over Owler Tor 1 f5+
1
Zaffatricks The Secret Garden f7B+
2
The Duck The Secret Garden 2 f6C
3
Middle Duck The Secret Garden 1 f6B+
4
Right-Hand Duck The Secret Garden f7A
5
First Bulge The Secret Garden f5
6
Sitdown Bulge The Secret Garden f6B
7
Sitdown Groove The Secret Garden f5+
8
The Harder Side The Secret Garden 2 f7A
9
The Easier Side The Secret Garden 2 f6B
10
Topless Crack The Secret Garden 1 f6A
11
Chockstone Crack The Secret Garden 1 f5
12
Up From Recess The Secret Garden 1 f6A+
13
Beach Bum The Secret Garden 1 f7A
14
Zaff's Problem The Secret Garden 2 f7B
15
Pistol Pinch The Secret Garden 2 f7A+
16
Beach Ball The Secret Garden 2 f7A
17
Not Zaff's The Secret Garden 1 f6B
18
Beach Crack The Secret Garden 1 f5
19
Secret Garden Traverse The Secret Garden 3 f6B
20
Zippatricks The Secret Garden 3 f7C+
21
The Runnel The Secret Garden 1 f6C
22
Nigel's Problem The Secret Garden 1 f7A
23
Left-hand Man The Secret Garden 3 f7B+
24
Left-hand Man Direct The Secret Garden 3 f7C+
25
Dick Williams The Secret Garden 2 f7B
26
Middle Man The Secret Garden 1 f7C
27
Right-hand Man The Secret Garden 1 f7A+
28
Buoux Left The Secret Garden 1 f5+
29
Buoux Right The Secret Garden 2 f5
30
Garden Shed Arete The Secret Garden f6A
31
Garden Shed The Secret Garden 1 f6C
1
Savage Garden The Secret Garden - Outlying 2 f7B+
2
Pascal Sauvage The Secret Garden - Outlying 2 f7C+
3
Hulley Pulley The Secret Garden - Outlying f7B+
4
Fireball The Secret Garden - Outlying 1 f7B+
5
Walnut Whip The Secret Garden - Outlying 2 f6C
6
Rabbit's Paw The Secret Garden - Outlying 1 f6B
7
The Fur Side The Secret Garden - Outlying f4
8
Hare's Ear Left The Secret Garden - Outlying 1 f6C
9
Hare's Ear The Secret Garden - Outlying 1 f7A
10
Bigmouth Shiner The Secret Garden - Outlying 1 f6B
11
Bigmouth Strikes Again The Secret Garden - Outlying 1 f7A
12
Monster Mouth The Secret Garden - Outlying f6B+
13
Tough Slopes The Secret Garden - Outlying f7A
14
Wangatan The Secret Garden - Outlying f7B+
1
Brigadoon North Bays 2 f7B
2
Deceptive Rib North Bays 1 f5+
3
Steady Arete North Bays 1 f5
4
Bohemian Grove North Bays 2 f8A
5
Rust Arete North Bays f5+
6
Rust North Bays f5+
7
Sex Dwarves North Bays 2 f6B+
1
The Bed of Procrustes Embankment Slab 3 f8B
2
Cherry Bank Road Embankment Slab 2 f7C+
3
Green Death Start Embankment Slab 3 f6C
4
Green Death Superdirect Embankment Slab 3 f7B
5
Master Chef Embankment Slab 2 f7B
6
Technical Baiter Embankment Slab 2 f5
7
Technical Master Left Embankment Slab 3 f6C
8
Technical Master Embankment Slab 3 f6B
9
Elm Street Embankment Slab 2 f7C+
10
Tip Top Embankment Slab 1 f7C
11
Little Lotto Arete Embankment Slab 2 f5
12
Little Lotto Arete Right Embankment Slab 1 f6C
13
Seventies Style Wall Embankment Slab 3 f6B+
1
The Metal Rash Traverse Keyhole Cave 1 f5
2
Keyhole Traverse Keyhole Cave 3 f6C
3
Keyhole Traverse 2 Keyhole Cave 2 f7A
4
Keyhole Traverse 3 Keyhole Cave 2 f7A+
5
Keyhole Traverse 4 Keyhole Cave 2 f7B+
6
Two Shot Holes Keyhole Cave 1 f5+

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