The Millstone area comprises several isolated areas of natural rock dotted across the moors above the large quarried crag of Millstone. There is the well-named Secret Garden hidden in the edge of the trees with its powerful roof problems. In complete contrast is the impressive monolith of Mother Cap which is constantly busy with walkers although the nearby Mother Cap Quarry has some more secluded bouldering. Hidden a stone\'s throw from Mother Cap is a block with some desperate rounded roof problems known as Mother\'s Pet Rock. The towers of Over Owler Tor offer pleasant vertical walls and aretes with a few steeper problems. The final area is the quarry of Millstone itself which is an altogether different proposition. There are no rounded pulls here, just delicate bridging on edges and technical laybacks up aretes on a set of well-spaced problems.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mother Goosed | Mother Cap Quarry | 2 | f7B |
2 |
Flat Cap | Mother Cap Quarry | 1 | f6C |
3 |
Andy Capp | Mother Cap Quarry | 1 | f6C |
4 |
Dog Brush | Mother Cap Quarry | f6A | |
5 |
In the Night All Caps are Black | Mother Cap Quarry | 2 | f7A+ |
6 |
Night Cap | Mother Cap Quarry | 2 | f6C |
7 |
Mama Slab Left | Mother Cap Quarry | f4+ | |
8 |
Mama Slab | Mother Cap Quarry | f4 | |
9 |
Mama Wall | Mother Cap Quarry | f3 | |
10 |
Roundy Wall | Mother Cap Quarry | 2 | f6B |
11 |
Death Cap | Mother Cap Quarry | 3 | f8A |
12 |
Mantel Arete | Mother Cap Quarry | f6A | |
13 |
Left Wall | Mother Cap Quarry | f6B+ | |
14 |
Cap Gun | Mother Cap Quarry | 1 | f7C |
15 |
Cap Gun Right-hand | Mother Cap Quarry | 1 | f7C+ |
16 |
Caps Lock | Mother Cap Quarry | 1 | f7A |
17 |
Arthur's Bulge Left-hand | Mother Cap Quarry | 2 | f8A |
18 |
Arthur's Bulge | Mother Cap Quarry | 2 | f8A |
19 |
Capoeira | Mother Cap Quarry | 1 | f7A+ |
20 |
PNC | Mother Cap Quarry | 2 | f7A+ |
21 |
Right Arete | Mother Cap Quarry | f6B | |
1 |
Blue Cap Start | Mother Cap | 1 | f4+ |
2 |
Mama-Mia | Mother Cap | 1 | f4+ |
3 |
Elf Cap Start | Mother Cap | f6A | |
4 |
Oyster Cap Start | Mother Cap | 2 | f6A+ |
5 |
David | Mother Cap | 1 | f7B |
6 |
Conan the Librarian | Mother Cap | 3 | f6B+ |
7 |
Thin Wall | Mother Cap | 2 | f6A+ |
8 |
Milk Cap | Mother Cap | 2 | VD |
9 |
Ink Cap | Mother Cap | 1 | f4 |
10 |
Flat Cap | Mother Cap | 1 | f4+ |
11 |
Dutch Cap | Mother Cap | 1 | f5+ |
12 |
Easy Cap | Mother Cap | f3 | |
13 |
Mother's Cap Back Wall | Mother Cap | f5 | |
1 |
Walking Gingerly | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f7A |
2 |
Beefeater | Mother's Pet Rock | f7A+ | |
3 |
Mother's Ruin | Mother's Pet Rock | 2 | f7A+ |
4 |
Mother's Pet Traverse | Mother's Pet Rock | 2 | f7A+ |
5 |
Mother's Pet Arete | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f6B |
6 |
The Blue Whale | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f6C |
7 |
Orca | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f7B+ |
8 |
Porker | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f7C |
9 |
Mother's Pride | Mother's Pet Rock | 3 | f7B+ |
10 |
Pet Cemetery | Mother's Pet Rock | 3 | f7A+ |
11 |
Peaky Blinders | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f7B |
12 |
Ahab | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f6A+ |
13 |
Mother's Pet Long Traverse | Mother's Pet Rock | 2 | f7B+ |
14 |
Pots Win Prizes | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f6B+ |
15 |
Top Shelf Mantel | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f7A |
16 |
Moby | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f6B |
17 |
Proper Grit | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f6C+ |
18 |
Pets Win Prizes | Mother's Pet Rock | 2 | f7B |
19 |
Mini Mother | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f6A+ |
20 |
Mother Rib Left | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f5 |
21 |
Mother Rib Right | Mother's Pet Rock | 1 | f5 |
1 |
Sailing | Over Owler Tor | f6B | |
2 |
Rod Stewart | Over Owler Tor | f5+ | |
3 |
Owler Pit Mantel | Over Owler Tor | f5+ | |
4 |
Teat & Tengmalm's | Over Owler Tor | 2 | f6B+ |
5 |
Owler Single Ladies | Over Owler Tor | 2 | f7A |
6 |
Jet | Over Owler Tor | f5+ | |
7 |
George Smith E7 | Over Owler Tor | f5+ | |
8 |
Cutaway | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f6C |
9 |
Scrunchy Slopes | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f6B |
10 |
Slopey Scrunch | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f5+ |
11 |
Lil' Arete | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f3+ |
12 |
Wafery Flake | Over Owler Tor | 2 | f6A+ |
13 |
Plop Wall | Over Owler Tor | f5+ | |
14 |
Plop Start Left | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f4+ |
15 |
Plop Start Right | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f3+ |
16 |
Plip Start | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f4 |
17 |
Flake Arete | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f3 |
18 |
Roof 1 | Over Owler Tor | 2 | f6C |
19 |
Roof 2 | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f5+ |
20 |
Left Tower | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f5 |
21 |
Fingersplitter | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f4+ |
22 |
Right Tower | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f4+ |
23 |
Silver Arete | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f4 |
24 |
Friend Slot Wall | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f4+ |
25 |
Sisyphus | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f7A+ |
26 |
Golden Arete | Over Owler Tor | 3 | f6B+ |
27 |
Spider Crack | Over Owler Tor | 3 | f6C+ |
28 |
Jawbone | Over Owler Tor | 2 | f5+ |
29 |
The Eye Socket | Over Owler Tor | 1 | f5+ |
1 |
Zaffatricks | The Secret Garden | f7B+ | |
2 |
The Duck | The Secret Garden | 2 | f6C |
3 |
Middle Duck | The Secret Garden | 1 | f6B+ |
4 |
Right-Hand Duck | The Secret Garden | f7A | |
5 |
First Bulge | The Secret Garden | f5 | |
6 |
Sitdown Bulge | The Secret Garden | f6B | |
7 |
Sitdown Groove | The Secret Garden | f5+ | |
8 |
The Harder Side | The Secret Garden | 2 | f7A |
9 |
The Easier Side | The Secret Garden | 2 | f6B |
10 |
Topless Crack | The Secret Garden | 1 | f6A |
11 |
Chockstone Crack | The Secret Garden | 1 | f5 |
12 |
Up From Recess | The Secret Garden | 1 | f6A+ |
13 |
Beach Bum | The Secret Garden | 1 | f7A |
14 |
Zaff's Problem | The Secret Garden | 2 | f7B |
15 |
Pistol Pinch | The Secret Garden | 2 | f7A+ |
16 |
Beach Ball | The Secret Garden | 2 | f7A |
17 |
Not Zaff's | The Secret Garden | 1 | f6B |
18 |
Beach Crack | The Secret Garden | 1 | f5 |
19 |
Secret Garden Traverse | The Secret Garden | 3 | f6B |
20 |
Zippatricks | The Secret Garden | 3 | f7C+ |
21 |
The Runnel | The Secret Garden | 1 | f6C |
22 |
Nigel's Problem | The Secret Garden | 1 | f7A |
23 |
Left-hand Man | The Secret Garden | 3 | f7B+ |
24 |
Left-hand Man Direct | The Secret Garden | 3 | f7C+ |
25 |
Dick Williams | The Secret Garden | 2 | f7B |
26 |
Middle Man | The Secret Garden | 1 | f7C |
27 |
Right-hand Man | The Secret Garden | 1 | f7A+ |
28 |
Buoux Left | The Secret Garden | 1 | f5+ |
29 |
Buoux Right | The Secret Garden | 2 | f5 |
30 |
Garden Shed Arete | The Secret Garden | f6A | |
31 |
Garden Shed | The Secret Garden | 1 | f6C |
1 |
Savage Garden | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 2 | f7B+ |
2 |
Pascal Sauvage | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 2 | f7C+ |
3 |
Hulley Pulley | The Secret Garden - Outlying | f7B+ | |
4 |
Fireball | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 1 | f7B+ |
5 |
Walnut Whip | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 2 | f6C |
6 |
Rabbit's Paw | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 1 | f6B |
7 |
The Fur Side | The Secret Garden - Outlying | f4 | |
8 |
Hare's Ear Left | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 1 | f6C |
9 |
Hare's Ear | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 1 | f7A |
10 |
Bigmouth Shiner | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 1 | f6B |
11 |
Bigmouth Strikes Again | The Secret Garden - Outlying | 1 | f7A |
12 |
Monster Mouth | The Secret Garden - Outlying | f6B+ | |
13 |
Tough Slopes | The Secret Garden - Outlying | f7A | |
14 |
Wangatan | The Secret Garden - Outlying | f7B+ | |
1 |
Brigadoon | North Bays | 2 | f7B |
2 |
Deceptive Rib | North Bays | 1 | f5+ |
3 |
Steady Arete | North Bays | 1 | f5 |
4 |
Bohemian Grove | North Bays | 2 | f8A |
5 |
Rust Arete | North Bays | f5+ | |
6 |
Rust | North Bays | f5+ | |
7 |
Sex Dwarves | North Bays | 2 | f6B+ |
1 |
The Bed of Procrustes | Embankment Slab | 3 | f8B |
2 |
Cherry Bank Road | Embankment Slab | 2 | f7C+ |
3 |
Green Death Start | Embankment Slab | 3 | f6C |
4 |
Green Death Superdirect | Embankment Slab | 3 | f7B |
5 |
Master Chef | Embankment Slab | 2 | f7B |
6 |
Technical Baiter | Embankment Slab | 2 | f5 |
7 |
Technical Master Left | Embankment Slab | 3 | f6C |
8 |
Technical Master | Embankment Slab | 3 | f6B |
9 |
Elm Street | Embankment Slab | 2 | f7C+ |
10 |
Tip Top | Embankment Slab | 1 | f7C |
11 |
Little Lotto Arete | Embankment Slab | 2 | f5 |
12 |
Little Lotto Arete Right | Embankment Slab | 1 | f6C |
13 |
Seventies Style Wall | Embankment Slab | 3 | f6B+ |
1 |
The Metal Rash Traverse | Keyhole Cave | 1 | f5 |
2 |
Keyhole Traverse | Keyhole Cave | 3 | f6C |
3 |
Keyhole Traverse 2 | Keyhole Cave | 2 | f7A |
4 |
Keyhole Traverse 3 | Keyhole Cave | 2 | f7A+ |
5 |
Keyhole Traverse 4 | Keyhole Cave | 2 | f7B+ |
6 |
Two Shot Holes | Keyhole Cave | 1 | f5+ |
Copyright © Rockfax