Newstones and Baldstones

Two crags which are always treated as one, mainly because you have to walk past the Newstones to get to the Baldstones. They have a similar character being lumps of rock rather than edges - a little too tall for bouldering in parts, but also mostly too small for routes. The lovely location and easy access means that they are quite popular.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
S and M Charlie's Overhang 3 f7A+
2
Leather Joy Boys Charlie's Overhang 3 f7B
3
Little Traverse Charlie's Overhang 1 f6A
4
Charlie's Overhang Charlie's Overhang 3 f6B
5
Moonshine Charlie's Overhang 1 f5
6
Praying Mantel Start Charlie's Overhang f6C
7
Wraparound Arete Charlie's Overhang 1 f6C
1
Left Twin Arete Top Block 1 f3
2
Right Twin Arete Top Block 2 f4
3
Flake Slab Top Block 1 f5
4
Flake Slab Eliminate Top Block 1 f5+
5
Square Cut Face Top Block 1 f6A
6
Left Arete Top Block 1 f5+
7
Wall and Mono Top Block 1 f6A+
8
Varicose Top Block 2 f6A+
9
The Grinding Sloper Top Block 1 f6A
10
Varicose Traverse Top Block 1 f6A
11
Easy Slab Top Block 1 f3
12
Easy Crack Top Block 1 f2+
13
Easy Slab Right-hand Top Block 1 f2+
14
Right Arete Top Block 1 f5+
1
Ripple Hazel Barn 3 f6B+
2
Martin's Traverse Hazel Barn 2 f5
3
Martin's Direct Hazel Barn 1 f6A
4
Crack and Arete Hazel Barn 2 f6A+
5
Short Wall Hazel Barn 1 f5+
6
Hazel Traverse Hazel Barn 3 f6A+
7
Hazel Groove Hazel Barn 2 f5+
8
Nutmeg Groove Hazel Barn 2 f5+
9
Hammy Hazel Barn 2 f6A
10
Mister Coconut Hazel Barn f6A+
1
Scratch Wall Sly Buttress f6A
2
Scratch Crack Sly Buttress 1 f5
3
Scratch Arete Sly Buttress 1 f6C
4
Itchy Groove Sly Buttress 2 f6B+
5
Itchy Fingers Sly Buttress 1 f6A
6
Bridget Sly Buttress 1 f4+
7
Sly Traverse Sly Buttress 1 f5
8
Stallone Arete Sly Buttress 2 f6C+
9
Sly Stallone Sly Buttress 3 f6C
10
Sly Mantelshelf Sly Buttress 2 f5+
11
Sly Super Direct Sly Buttress 1 f6A
12
Captain Quark Sly Buttress 2 f6C+
13
Sly Direct Sly Buttress 1 f5
1
Tiny Crack Stegosaurus 1 f4
2
Left Crack Stegosaurus 1 f5
3
Tyrannosaurus Hex Stegosaurus 1 f4+
4
Prehistoric Offwidth Stegosaurus 1 f4
5
The Clanger Stegosaurus f5+
6
Soup Dragon Stegosaurus f5
7
Clammy Wall Stegosaurus 1 f4
8
Yo Clam Stegosaurus 1 f4+
9
Clammy Hands Stegosaurus 1 f4+
1
Original Route Start The Baldstones 1 f5+
2
Baldy The Baldstones 1 f6A+
3
Baldstones Dyno The Baldstones 3 f6B+
4
Throwball The Baldstones 2 f7A+
5
Baldstones Low The Baldstones 1 f7B+
6
Baldstones Traverse The Baldstones 2 f7A+
7
Easy Exit The Baldstones 2 f6A+
8
Crank Cuffin The Baldstones 1 f7C
9
Last Banana Before Sunset The Baldstones 1 f5+
10
Indirect Arete The Baldstones f7A+
11
Indirect Arete Right The Baldstones 1 f5+
12
Fielder's Indirect The Baldstones 1 f5
13
Fielder's Corner The Baldstones 1 f6A+
14
Fielder's Wall The Baldstones 2 f7B
15
Elephant's Eye The Baldstones 3 f6B+
16
Elephant's Ear The Baldstones 3 f4+
17
Clever Skin Left-Hand The Baldstones 2 f7B+
18
Clever Skin The Baldstones 2 f7A+
19
The Wart The Baldstones f7A+

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