Roccia dello Schiavo

The impressive Roccia dello Schiavo is of great significance to the climbers of Sicily since it was here that climbing on the island first started in the 1940s. The giant rock pillar stands proudly above the city yet, despite this proximity, it has a tranquil feel and is in a national park. As with many old-school venues, it is not as popular these days hence a good place to head for if other areas are busy. Historically development involved long multi-pitch routes with limited fixed gear. In more recent times, activity has focussed on the lower pitches only and the upper sections are something of an unknown quantity which aren't covered in this book. Re-equipping has taken place, and there is some old gear still on the lower pitches.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
007 Piccionaia 1 4c
2
Ninja Piccionaia 2 4c
3
Balto Piccionaia 1 4c
4
Isort Piccionaia 2 5c
5
Gipi Piccionaia 1 5c
6
Ercole Piccionaia 1 4c
7
Pegaso Piccionaia 1 4c
8
Shrek Piccionaia 1 5a
9
Popeye Piccionaia 2 5b
10
Via Mia Piccionaia 1 6a+
11
Nunsexmonkrock Piccionaia 1 6c
12
Flora Piccionaia 1 6c
13
A gonfie vele Piccionaia 1 6b
14
Van Gogh Piccionaia 1 6c
15
Michelangelo Piccionaia 2 6b+
16
Happy Feet Piccionaia 1 6b
17
Ignudo Piccionaia 1 6a+
18
Vortice Piccionaia 3 6a
19
Voltati Eugenio Piccionaia 2 6b+
20
Salto in Alto Piccionaia 1 6b+
1
Fat Bois Central 1 5a
2
Ciselafa Central 1 6a
3
25 e 70 Central 2 5a
4
Mimosa Central 2 6a
5
Variazioni Sul Tema Central 2 6a+
6
Doctor Creator Central 3 6b
7
Diretta (P1) Central 3 6a
8
Daniela (P1) Central 2 6c
9
Serpente Central 1 6a+
10
Senza Nome Central 6a
11
Siusy (P1) Central 1 6a
12
Gravity (P1) Central 1 6a
13
Mastro Lindo Central 2 5c
14
Spigolo Sub Central 5c
15
Giuditta Central 2 6a+
16
Lontana Sperlonga Central 3 6b+
17
Gia l'ho Vista Central 1 6b
18
Sputo Line Central 1 6a+
19
Free Dirt Central 2 6a
20
Moonflower Central 1 6c
21
Tristezza Central 2 6a+
22
Urbi et Gorbi Central 1 5c
23
Fachir Central 2 6a+
24
Raissa Dammi La... Central 6a
25
Ciuscia Ca Vola Central 1 6a
26
Baby Boom Central 1 6b
1
Tora Tora Tora Pronobis Bonzo 6a+
2
A Giulio Bonzo 1 6a
3
Il Regno dellez Sicilie Bonzo 1 6a
4
Bonzo Bonzo 2 6a
5
Grattugia Bonzo 2 6c+
6
Hansel Grete Bonzo 3 7a+
7
Piombini Bonzo 1 7b
8
Superplacca Nonmallena Bonzo 2 6c+
9
Aracnofobia Bonzo 7c+
10
Dimensione Rosso Bonzo 3 7c
11
Ice and Rest Bonzo 8a+
12
Atmosfera Zero Bonzo 3 7a
13
Skranghi-Ki-Pinz Bonzo 2 6c
14
CAS-CAI Bonzo 2 6c
15
Ornella Bonzo 2 6a
1
Febbraio 27 L'Eremita 1 6a+
2
Tre G L'Eremita 1 6a
3
La Rossa L'Eremita 6a+
4
L'Eremita L'Eremita 1 6a+
5
Cromagnon L'Eremita 6b+
6
Misantropia L'Eremita 1 6c
7
Icaro Club L'Eremita 1 6c+
8
Mas que Nada L'Eremita 6a+

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