Sperone Est

The magnificent pillar of Sperone Est rises above the coastal plain giving climbing virtually from sea level to the summit of Monte Monaco. As the tallest continuous bit of rock in the area it has attracted climbers and seen its fair share of epic first ascents dating back to the early 80s. In more recent years a number of (mainly bolted) routes have been developed allowing climbers easier access to this superb and striking pillar.The two main attractions are the brilliant Via delle Punte (5c) and Sogni d'Oro (6b) which are two of the best long routes in the area. They are predominantly bolted, although a small trad rack and a few slings may be found useful by many climbers. Route finding isn't always obvious, especially on the easier pitches. These two routes can easily be done in a day with a simple descent, but it is worth carrying a head torch and extra clothes in case things go wrong since they are long. Also described here are five other routes in the more 'adventurous' category. These should only be attempted by experienced multi-pitch climbers with a full rack and twin 50m ropes in case abseil retreat is required. Other old routes on this wall exist - they are not described but may also have fixed gear.

Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
November Sun November Sun 2 7b
Via delle Punte Sperone Est Pillar 3 5c
Sogni d'Oro Sperone Est Pillar 3 6b
Via dei Romani Sperone Est Pillar 6a
Palma Nana Sperone Est Pillar 2 6b
Orient Express Sperone Est Pillar 3 6c+
I Mari del Sud Sperone Est Pillar 2 7b

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