Pizzo Monaco

The spectacular pinnacle of Pizzo Monaco on Monte Monaco\'s northwest tip has a series of interesting multi-pitch routes, most of which reach the top for a full summit experience and accompanying abseil descent. The routes are shorter than on the nearby Parete Nord and the grades more attainable for most. All the routes have some fixed gear, especially on the belays, and a couple are nearly fully bolted. Whatever route you are doing, a rack of gear is essential to plug the gaps between the bolts - take wires, cams and slings. A 70m rope is needed for the 2-abseil descent. It is possible with a 60m rope but the last abseil is long and you will need to scramble down easy ground. In most cases the belays are bolted except on a couple of the routes. The information in this section is included for historical reasons and to inspire those with plenty of experience in multi-pitch trad on big cliffs - be prepared for an adventure.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Ananda Pizzo Monaco Routes 1 6a
2
Monaco di Clausura Pizzo Monaco Routes 2 6c
3
Parole al Vento Pizzo Monaco Routes 3 6c
4
Trio Pastorale Pizzo Monaco Routes 2 6a
5
Madre de Dios Pizzo Monaco Routes 1 6b
6
Boomerang Pizzo Monaco Routes 6a+
7
Chiari di Luna Pizzo Monaco Routes 1 6a+
8
L'Abito Non Fa il Monaco Pizzo Monaco Routes 3 6b
9
Pace di Chiostro Pizzo Monaco Routes 1 5a

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