Tucked away on the Brixham side of Torbay are a series of old limestone quarried bays that are long disused and now partially shrouded under trees. Recent exploration has uncovered some fine walls that have provided a number of very worthwhile sport climbs that range from 5c to 8a+. The crags are all north-facing and very sheltered from any westerly poor weather. The Sugar Mountain stays dry in the winter months and is a cool spot in the heat of the summer. There are lots of older semi trad/sport climbs dotted around the walls and other buttresses that may well be reclaimed as fully bolted lines in the future.
| Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Metalwasp | The Wall of Weirdness | 2 | 6c+ |
2 |
The Jungle Line | The Wall of Weirdness | 1 | 6b+ |
3 |
Whizz Bang Kissy Kissy | The Wall of Weirdness | 1 | 7b+ |
4 |
Crystal Palace | The Wall of Weirdness | 1 | 6c+ |
5 |
Scallop Wall | The Wall of Weirdness | 6a+ | |
6 |
The Muscle Farm | The Wall of Weirdness | 1 | 7a |
1 |
Arete Butler | Sugar Mountain | 1 | 6c+ |
2 |
Billy Crystal Cluster | Sugar Mountain | 2 | 7a |
3 |
Stan Coliform | Sugar Mountain | 2 | 7c |
4 |
Cheese String Theory | Sugar Mountain | 2 | 8a+ |
5 |
Martin Launderette | Sugar Mountain | 1 | 6a |
6 |
Mackerel Stevens | Sugar Mountain | 3 | 7c |
7 |
Krushmi Chheda | Sugar Mountain | 3 | 7c+ |
8 |
Bob Handhold | Sugar Mountain | 2 | 6c |
9 |
Macca's Route | Sugar Mountain | 2 | 7a+ |
10 |
Powderfinger | Sugar Mountain | 2 | 6b |
11 |
Ragged Glory | Sugar Mountain | 1 | 6b |
12 |
Gene Parmesan | Sugar Mountain | 2 | 7b |
1 |
Picnic Blanket Bobsleigh | Sugar Mountain - Slab | 1 | 6a+ |
2 |
Work-Life Balance | Sugar Mountain - Slab | 1 | 6b+ |
3 |
Thanks to Bob | Sugar Mountain - Slab | 1 | 5b |
1 |
Helter Skelter | Redstone Wall | 2 | 7b+ |
2 |
Salami Wall | Redstone Wall | 2 | 8a |
3 |
See-Saw Sundays | Redstone Wall | 3 | 7c |
1 |
No Holds Barred | Super Calorific Wall | 2 | 7a+ |
2 |
Chocology | Super Calorific Wall | 1 | 7c |
3 |
Supercalorific | Super Calorific Wall | 3 | 6a+ |
4 |
Link Up | Super Calorific Wall | 1 | 6b |
5 |
Bearing Down | Super Calorific Wall | 2 | E5 6b |
6 |
Bering Strait | Super Calorific Wall | 1 | 7a+ |
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