Shorn Cliff

Shorn Cliff is one of the UKs most popular limestone trad cliffs that commands a beautiful position high above the lower reaches of the River Wye. The cliff is a favourite of teams who operate in the Severe to mid E grades with many of the climbs having good rock, climbing and strong lines. A longish approach coupled with the cliff being located in dense forest should not dampen any ambitions of making a visit as the ambience and glimpses of the river and nearby Tintern Abbey are charming. The majority of protection is from wires and cams along with threads and some pegs (many in place that should be carefully checked). Most of the climbs are well-travelled but a number of the walls and buttresses have now become overgrown and these have been omitted here but are still recorded on the UKC database.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Petit Mort Abbey Buttress 1 E2 5b
2
One Way Glass Abbey Buttress E2 6a
3
Gorillas in the Garden Abbey Buttress HVS 5a
4
Lazy L Abbey Buttress VS 4c
5
Wet Sunday Abbey Buttress VS 4b
6
Birth Canal + Wet Sunday Abbey Buttress E3 5b
7
Gargoyle Abbey Buttress 1 HS 4b
8
Alta Vista Abbey Buttress 1 VS 4c
9
Party Piece Abbey Buttress 1 E3 6a
10
Beeline Abbey Buttress 1 VS 4c
11
Rumble in the Jungle Abbey Buttress 1 HVS 5a
12
The Bone Abbey Buttress 2 E1 5b
13
Pooh Sticks Abbey Buttress 2 E1 5b
14
A Bolt from the Blue Abbey Buttress 1 E4 5c
15
Tigers Don't Cry Abbey Buttress 3 HVS 5a
16
Three Score Years and Ten Abbey Buttress 2 E6 6b
17
Acoustic Abbey Buttress 1 VD
18
Intravenous Feeding Abbey Buttress 1 VS 4c
19
Social Criticism Abbey Buttress 1 E1 5b
20
Side Effects Abbey Buttress 2 E1 5b
21
Hydraulic Jump Abbey Buttress 1 VS 4c
22
Brain Washed Abbey Buttress E4 6a
23
Self Defence Abbey Buttress VS 4c
1
Rule the Roost The Buttress With No Name VS 4b
2
The Orphan The Buttress With No Name E1 5b
3
Heavy Plant Crossing The Buttress With No Name 1 VS 4c
4
Alone in a Crowd The Buttress With No Name 2 HVS 5b
5
Breech Birth The Buttress With No Name E1 5b
6
The Long Reach The Buttress With No Name 1 HVS 5a
7
Artificial Insemination The Buttress With No Name 1 HVS 5a
8
Indecisive Victory The Buttress With No Name 1 HS 4b
9
Llamas in the Loft The Buttress With No Name HVS 5a
10
Thread Security The Buttress With No Name VS 5a
11
Probing in the Dark The Buttress With No Name 1 E1 5b
12
Secret Identity The Buttress With No Name 1 VS 4c
13
Dirty Harry The Buttress With No Name HS 4b
14
Aquatic Cyclist The Buttress With No Name VS 5a
1
Gnarly Old Men The Berlin Wall 1 E5 6a
2
Today You Shall Be With Me In Paradise The Berlin Wall 1 E5 6a
3
Name in the Book The Berlin Wall 2 E1 5b
4
East to West The Berlin Wall HS 4b
5
The Iron Curtain The Berlin Wall 1 VS 4c
6
Another Brick in the Wall The Berlin Wall VS 4c
7
Defection The Berlin Wall HVS 4c
8
Dictator The Berlin Wall 1 HVS 5a
9
Traitor The Berlin Wall 1 HVS 5a
10
Temporary Truce The Berlin Wall 2 VS 4c
11
Organ Grinder The Berlin Wall 3 HVS 5a
12
Five Pints The Berlin Wall E3 6a
13
Kill the Tories The Berlin Wall HVS 5a
1
Jug? What Jug?! Fallen Block Buttress 1 HVS 5a
2
One Less White Oliver Fallen Block Buttress 2 VS 4c
3
Emotional Dyslexia Fallen Block Buttress 2 HVS 5a
4
Night Rider Fallen Block Buttress 2 HS 4b
5
Green Meanie Fallen Block Buttress 1 E3 5c
1
Motion Pictures Tiger Bay 3 E1 5b
2
Touch the Fire Tiger Bay 2 E2 5c
3
Last Call Tiger Bay 1 VS 5a
4
Cruisin' for a Bruisin' Tiger Bay E1 5b
5
Intermission Tiger Bay HS 4b
6
Wolf Whistle Tiger Bay 1 S 4a
7
Trouble Brewing Tiger Bay 1 E4 6a
8
Cry Wolf Tiger Bay VD
9
Three Bananas Tiger Bay E1 5a
10
Jenny's Route Tiger Bay S 4a
11
Dazed and Confused Tiger Bay S 4a
12
Let England Shake Tiger Bay 1 E1 5c
13
Pump it up... Again Tiger Bay 1 E2 5b
14
Renaissance Tiger Bay 1 E1 5b
15
Bursting the Renaissance Bubble Tiger Bay 1 E1 5a
16
Bubble Memory Tiger Bay 1 HVS 5a
17
One Step Down Tiger Bay E1 5a
1
...Think of England Great Central Cave VS 4c
2
Damsel in Distress Great Central Cave VS 4c
3
Lucky Star Great Central Cave E1 5b
4
Yer Money or Yer Life Great Central Cave VS 4c
5
Stand and Deliver Great Central Cave 2 E1 5b
6
Ironside's Men Great Central Cave 2 E2 5b
7
The Spanish Inquisition Great Central Cave 1 E1 5a
8
Treason Great Central Cave 1 HVS 5a
9
All for One... Great Central Cave 2 HVS 5a
10
Bitter Battle Tears Great Central Cave 3 HVS 5a
11
A King's Ransom Great Central Cave 1 E3 6a
12
Lost Cavaliers Tears Great Central Cave 2 HVS 5a
13
The Laughing Cavaliers Great Central Cave 3 HVS 5a
14
No Musketeers Great Central Cave 3 HVS 5a
15
No Musketeers (Direct Finish) Great Central Cave 3 E1 5c
16
Roundhead's Revenge Great Central Cave 2 E1 5c
17
...One for All Great Central Cave 2 HS 4b
18
War of the Worlds Great Central Cave 1 HVS 4c
19
Peace in Our Time Great Central Cave HVS 5a
20
The Phoney War Great Central Cave 2 HS 4b
21
Rebellion Great Central Cave 1 E1 5b
22
State of Independence Great Central Cave 2 VS 4b
1
Fallacy Fallacy Buttress 2 HVS 5a
2
Lundy Calling Fallacy Buttress 2 E4 5c
3
The English Opium Eaters Fallacy Buttress E6 6b
1
The Pinnacle of Success The Pinnacle Wall VS 4b
2
Stuck on You The Pinnacle Wall 1 E1 5b
3
A Stitch in Time The Pinnacle Wall 2 E1 5b
4
The Hit The Pinnacle Wall 1 E3 6a
5
Second Wind The Pinnacle Wall 1 E2 5c
1
Blood Brothers Bridle Buttress E1 5a
2
Heart of Stone Bridle Buttress 1 E1 5a
3
Nosey Bleeder Bridle Buttress E3 5c
4
Run for Home Bridle Buttress 3 E2 5b
5
Running on Empty Bridle Buttress 1 E3 5c
6
Easy Rider Bridle Buttress 2 E1 5b
7
Running Hot Bridle Buttress 2 E2 5c
8
Loss of Innocence Bridle Buttress 1 HVS 5a
9
Fat Man in Ethiopia Bridle Buttress 1 HVS 5a
1
Hit and Run Hit and Run Buttress 3 E2 5b
2
Touche Pussycat Hit and Run Buttress 2 E1 5c

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