Wintour's Leap is one of the UK's biggest limestone cliffs at around 70m in height and well over half a kilometre in length. Much of the cliff is quarried, although substantial sections of natural rock remain. Located within the Lancaut Nature Reserve (SSSI) on the lower meanders of the River Wye, the setting is idyllic and extremely tranquil, with only the sound of birds being the normal accompaniment to climbing here. Wintour's Leap has been heavily developed over the years but many routes have become vegetated due to a lack of traffic; only the best of the climbs are covered here. The majority of the finest routes are multi-pitch trad, but there are also plenty of sport routes in Woodcroft Quarry.On the quarried sections, protection is not always abundant and many pegs are in place - all should be inspected and backed-up where possible.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Andromeda | North Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
2 |
Script for a Jester's Tear | North Wall | 1 | 6c+ |
3 |
Turmoil of a White Ocean | North Wall | 2 | 6b+ |
4 |
Sweeter Than Sugar | North Wall | E4 6a | |
5 |
Agamemnon | North Wall | 2 | 6c |
6 |
Electra | North Wall | 1 | 6c+ |
7 |
White Feather | North Wall | 2 | E3 5c |
8 |
Yesterday's Dreams | North Wall | 2 | E2 5c |
9 |
Left-hand Route | North Wall | 3 | HS 4b |
10 |
The Angel's Girdle | North Wall | 3 | VS 5a |
11 |
Simplex | North Wall | 1 | VS 4c |
12 |
The Tap | North Wall | HVS 4c | |
13 |
Notung | North Wall | 3 | E1 5a |
14 |
Swansong Prelude | North Wall | 1 | E2 5b |
15 |
Nibelheim | North Wall | 2 | VS 4c |
16 |
Right-hand Route | North Wall | 1 | HS 4b |
17 |
Big Brother | North Wall | 2 | E2 5c |
18 |
Strange Little Girl | North Wall | 3 | E4 6a |
19 |
The Angel's Eye | North Wall | 2 | HVS 5b |
20 |
Joe's Route | North Wall | 2 | VS 4c |
1 |
Original Route | Great Wall | 1 | VD |
1 |
Crystal Tips | Central Bay | HVS 5b | |
2 |
Paul's Wall | Central Bay | 1 | HVS 5a |
3 |
Spinal Tap | Central Bay | E3 6a | |
4 |
Grey Wall | Central Bay | 1 | HVS 5a |
5 |
Espresso Bongo | Central Bay | E1 5b | |
6 |
Corner Buttress Route 1 | Central Bay | 1 | VD 4a |
7 |
Corner Buttress Route 2 | Central Bay | 1 | VD 4a |
8 |
Corner Buttress Route 3 | Central Bay | 1 | M |
9 |
Cement Groove | Central Bay | Diff | |
10 |
Direct Route | Central Bay | Diff | |
11 |
Pig Iron | Central Bay | 1 | E1 5b |
12 |
Black Wall Left | Central Bay | HVS 5a | |
13 |
Black Wall | Central Bay | 1 | HVS 5a |
1 |
Microserf | South Bay | 1 | 7a |
2 |
Valley Forge | South Bay | 2 | E2 5c |
3 |
Yr Herwehla | South Bay | 1 | E1 5b |
4 |
Therapy | South Bay | 1 | E2 5c |
5 |
Bottle Buttress | South Bay | 2 | VD 4a |
6 |
Bottle Buttress Direct | South Bay | 1 | VS 4c |
7 |
Central Rib Route I | South Bay | 3 | S 4a |
8 |
Central Rib Route II | South Bay | 2 | VS 5a |
1 |
Zelda | Far South Bay | 3 | HS 4b |
2 |
Cheetah | Far South Bay | 2 | HVS 5a |
3 |
Never Say Die | Far South Bay | 2 | E2 5c |
4 |
Never Say Never Again | Far South Bay | 2 | 6b+ |
1 |
Kaiser Wall | GO Wall | 3 | E3 6a |
2 |
Heil Hitler! | GO Wall | 2 | 7a |
3 |
The Lurking Smear | GO Wall | 1 | 7a |
4 |
King Kong | GO Wall | 3 | E1 5b |
5 |
Kangaroo Wall | GO Wall | 3 | E2 6a |
6 |
Hyena Cage | GO Wall | 3 | E4 6a |
7 |
Dog Eat Dog | GO Wall | 3 | E5 6a |
8 |
The Jackal | GO Wall | 3 | E5 6a |
9 |
The Isle of Dogs | GO Wall | 2 | 7a+ |
10 |
Never Say Goodbye | GO Wall | 3 | E2 5c |
11 |
Surrealist Pitch 3 | GO Wall | 3 | E1 5b |
1 |
Delicious | Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls | 6a | |
2 |
Still Nice and Still Sleazy | Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls | 3 | 6a+ |
3 |
Schrodinger's Cat, Earl | Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls | 1 | 6a+ |
4 |
Heisenberg's Uncertain Reach. | Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls | 2 | 6b |
5 |
The Last Kingdom | Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls | 1 | 6a+ |
1 |
The Only Way is Wessex | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 5c |
2 |
Spooky Action | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 2 | 6a+ |
3 |
Playing Hooky | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 6a+ |
4 |
Forty Years Apiece | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 4c |
5 |
Between the Lines | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 6a | |
6 |
Leopards Ate My Face! | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 5b | |
7 |
The Shovel Man | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 6a+ |
8 |
Bulls Eye Becca (1) | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 3c | |
9 |
Bull's Eye Becca (2) | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 4b | |
10 |
Look at What You Could've Won | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 5a | |
11 |
Just "Kill 'Em" jones | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 6a |
12 |
Corner Crack Eliminate | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 6b+ |
13 |
Thingfrith left-hand start | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 5b |
14 |
Thingfrith | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 6a+ | |
15 |
Tea for One | Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift | 1 | 6a+ |
1 |
Out of your tree | Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift | 1 | 5c |
2 |
See It, Sort It! | Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift | 6b | |
3 |
Ankarana | Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift | 1 | 6a |
4 |
Much Zebu Crudness | Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift | 1 | 6b |
5 |
Let That Be A Lesson | Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift | 1 | 4c |
6 |
Scrager | Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift | 4c | |
7 |
Barney's Walk | Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift | 4b | |
1 |
Dooglie Ooglie | Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall | 1 | 6c |
2 |
Dr Grunt | Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall | 6b | |
3 |
Are they inviting | Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall | 1 | 6b |
4 |
The New Neighbour | Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall | 1 | 6a+ |
5 |
Only Joking | Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall | 6a+ | |
6 |
The Italian G | Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall | 6c | |
7 |
The Boy Did Good | Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall | 6a+ | |
1 |
Meeting on a Jet Plane | Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector | 1 | 6a |
2 |
Jacqui Big Tits | Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector | 6b+ | |
3 |
A Blast from the Past | Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector | 2 | 6c+ |
4 |
Gun Blast | Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector | 6a+ | |
5 |
Gunshot (Tommo's Varient) | Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector | 1 | 7a+ |
6 |
Gunshot Wound to the Head | Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector | 2 | 6c |
7 |
Don't Lower the Tone | Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector | 1 | 7a+ |
1 |
Caveat Emptor | Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter | 1 | 6a |
2 |
Dog of the Month | Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter | 1 | 6a+ |
3 |
Henry Sucks | Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter | 5b | |
4 |
Be Gentle | Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter | 4c | |
1 |
Moving On Up | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 2 | 6a |
2 |
A Bit On The Side | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 6a |
3 |
Slimming in the Rain | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 4c |
4 |
Slim and Toned | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 7b | |
5 |
Rippled and Toned | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 7a |
6 |
Lean Dark Hombre | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 6c+ |
7 |
Two Mules for Sister Sara | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 6b+ |
8 |
Ally Oops | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 6a+ |
9 |
Oops Upside Your Head | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 6a+ |
10 |
Military Discount | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 7b+ |
11 |
Saudi Air (2) | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 7b |
12 |
Saudi Air | Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre | 1 | 6b |
1 |
Earl Mac Lovin' | Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress | 4c | |
2 |
Two Beamer Earl | Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress | 4c | |
3 |
Fabulous in Fuscia | Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress | 6a | |
4 |
Tacky Teca | Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress | 5b | |
1 |
Papillon | Fly Wall | 2 | E2 5b |
2 |
Butterfly | Fly Wall | 2 | VS 4c |
3 |
Moth | Fly Wall | 1 | HS 4b |
4 |
Flies Rise | Fly Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
5 |
Swatter | Fly Wall | 2 | HVS 5a |
6 |
The Split | Fly Wall | 2 | VS 5a |
7 |
Split Flies | Fly Wall | 1 | E3 6a |
8 |
Ecliptic | Fly Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
9 |
Mosquito Bite | Fly Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
10 |
African Killer Bee | Fly Wall | 2 | VS 4c |
11 |
Phoenix | Fly Wall | HS 4b | |
12 |
Dazed and Confused | Fly Wall | 1 | HVS 5a |
13 |
A Fly In The Eye? | Fly Wall | 2 | E3 5c |
14 |
Freedom | Fly Wall | 3 | VS 4c |
15 |
Freedom Direct | Fly Wall | 3 | E1 5b |
16 |
Swallow's Nest | Fly Wall | 2 | VS 4c |
17 |
Flyhole | Fly Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
18 |
Balls Out | Fly Wall | 1 | E2 5b |
19 |
Bulging Flies | Fly Wall | 2 | E3 5c |
20 |
Flyover | Fly Wall | 2 | E3 6a |
21 |
La Folie | Fly Wall | 3 | E4 6a |
22 |
Firefly | Fly Wall | 3 | E3 5c |
23 |
Wurlitzer | Fly Wall | 3 | E1 5c |
24 |
Gendarmerie | Fly Wall | 3 | E4 5c |
25 |
Dragonfly | Fly Wall | 1 | HVS 5a |
26 |
Big Fly Direct | Fly Wall | 3 | E1 5a |
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