Wintour\'s Leap

Wintour\'s Leap is one of the UKs biggest limestone cliffs at around 70m in height and well over half a kilometre in length. Much of the cliff is quarried although substantial sections of natural stone remain. The majority of the best routes are multi-pitch trad lines whilst in the adjoining and far less aesthetic Woodcroft Quarry many sport climbs exist – these are not covered here. Wintour\'s Leap has had a vast number of trad climbs put up on its various walls over the years but many have become vegetated over the last couple of decades due to a lack of traffic and interest; only the best and/or most frequented of the climbs are covered here. Located within the Lancaut Estate on the lower meanders of the River Wye the setting is idyllic and extremely tranquil with just the sound of birds the normal accompaniment to goings on at the cliff. There is something here to please most tastes ranging from some very good multi-pitch lines in the Mod to HVS range along with a good number of classy and challenging undertakings across the E1 to E6 grade spectrum. There are also a number of sport climbs dotted around that are worth a look. On the quarried sections of the cliff protection is not always abundant and many pegs are in place; all should be inspected and backed-up where possible. Access at the top of the cliff is sensitive (residential gardens on the cliff edge) and there are a number of places where ‘topping out\' is banned and an abseil descent is required.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Andromeda North Wall 1 E1 5b
2
Script for a Jester's Tear North Wall 1 6c+
3
Turmoil of a White Ocean North Wall 2 6b+
4
Sweeter Than Sugar North Wall E4 6a
5
Agamemnon North Wall 2 6c
6
Electra North Wall 1 6c+
7
White Feather North Wall 2 E3 5c
8
Yesterday's Dreams North Wall 2 E2 5c
9
Left-hand Route North Wall 2 HS 4b
10
The Angel's Girdle North Wall 3 VS 5a
11
Simplex North Wall 1 VS 4c
12
The Tap North Wall HVS 4c
13
Notung North Wall 3 E1 5a
14
Swansong Prelude North Wall 1 E2 5b
15
Nibelheim North Wall 2 VS 4c
16
Right-hand Route North Wall 1 HS 4b
17
Big Brother North Wall 2 E2 5c
18
Strange Little Girl North Wall 3 E4 6a
19
The Angel's Eye North Wall 2 HVS 5b
20
Joe's Route North Wall 2 VS 4c
1
Original Route Great Wall 1 VD
1
Crystal Tips Central Bay HVS 5b
2
Paul's Wall Central Bay 1 HVS 5a
3
Spinal Tap Central Bay E3 6a
4
Grey Wall Central Bay 1 HVS 5a
5
Espresso Bongo Central Bay E1 5b
6
Corner Buttress Route 1 Central Bay 1 VD
7
Corner Buttress Route 2 Central Bay 1 VD
8
Corner Buttress Route 3 Central Bay 1 M
9
Cement Groove Central Bay Diff
10
Direct Route Central Bay Diff
11
Pig Iron Central Bay 1 E1 5b
12
Black Wall Left Central Bay HVS 5a
13
Black Wall Central Bay 1 HVS 5a
1
Microserf South Bay 1 7a
2
Valley Forge South Bay 2 E2 5c
3
Yr Herwehla South Bay 1 E1 5b
4
Therapy South Bay 1 E2 5c
5
Bottle Buttress South Bay 2 VD 4a
6
Bottle Buttress Direct South Bay 1 VS 4c
7
Central Rib Route I South Bay 3 S 4a
8
Central Rib Route II South Bay 2 VS 5a
1
Zelda Far South Bay 3 HS 4b
2
Cheetah Far South Bay 2 HVS 5a
3
Never Say Die Far South Bay 2 E2 5c
4
Never Say Never Again Far South Bay 2 6b+
5
Kaiser Wall Far South Bay 3 E3 6a
6
Heil Hitler! Far South Bay 2 7a
7
The Lurking Smear Far South Bay 1 7a
1
King Kong GO Wall 3 E1 5b
2
Kangaroo Wall GO Wall 3 E2 6a
3
Hyena Cage GO Wall 3 E4 6a
4
Dog Eat Dog GO Wall 3 E5 6a
5
The Jackal GO Wall 3 E5 6a
1
The Isle of Dogs The Pedestal 2 7a+
2
Never Say Goodbye The Pedestal 3 E2 5c
3
Surrealist P3 The Pedestal 3 E1 5b
1
Papillon Fly Wall 2 E2 5b
2
Butterfly Fly Wall 2 VS 4c
3
Moth Fly Wall 1 HS 4b
4
Flies Rise Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
5
Swatter Fly Wall 2 HVS 5a
6
The Split Fly Wall 2 VS 5a
7
Split Flies Fly Wall 1 E3 6a
8
Ecliptic Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
9
Mosquito Bite Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
10
African Killer Bee Fly Wall 2 VS 4c
11
Phoenix Fly Wall HS 4b
12
Dazed and Confused Fly Wall 1 HVS 5a
13
A Fly In The Eye? Fly Wall 2 E3 5c
14
Freedom Fly Wall 3 VS 4c
15
Freedom Direct Fly Wall 3 E1 5b
16
Swallow's Nest Fly Wall 2 VS 4c
17
Flyhole Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
18
Balls Out Fly Wall 1 E2 5b
19
Bulging Flies Fly Wall 2 E2 5c
20
Flyover Fly Wall 2 E3 6a
21
La Folie Fly Wall 3 E4 6a
22
Firefly Fly Wall 3 E3 5c
23
Wurlitzer Fly Wall 3 E1 5c
24
Gendarmerie Fly Wall 3 E4 5c
25
Dragonfly Fly Wall 1 HVS 5a
26
Big Fly Direct Fly Wall 3 E1 5a

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