Wintour's Leap

Wintour's Leap is one of the UK's biggest limestone cliffs at around 70m in height and well over half a kilometre in length. Much of the cliff is quarried, although substantial sections of natural rock remain. Located within the Lancaut Nature Reserve (SSSI) on the lower meanders of the River Wye, the setting is idyllic and extremely tranquil, with only the sound of birds being the normal accompaniment to climbing here. Wintour's Leap has been heavily developed over the years but many routes have become vegetated due to a lack of traffic; only the best of the climbs are covered here. The majority of the finest routes are multi-pitch trad, but there are also plenty of sport routes in Woodcroft Quarry.On the quarried sections, protection is not always abundant and many pegs are in place - all should be inspected and backed-up where possible.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Andromeda North Wall 1 E1 5b
2
Script for a Jester's Tear North Wall 1 6c+
3
Turmoil of a White Ocean North Wall 2 6b+
4
Sweeter Than Sugar North Wall E4 6a
5
Agamemnon North Wall 2 6c
6
Electra North Wall 1 6c+
7
White Feather North Wall 2 E3 5c
8
Yesterday's Dreams North Wall 2 E2 5c
9
Left-hand Route North Wall 3 HS 4b
10
The Angel's Girdle North Wall 3 VS 5a
11
Simplex North Wall 1 VS 4c
12
The Tap North Wall HVS 4c
13
Notung North Wall 3 E1 5a
14
Swansong Prelude North Wall 1 E2 5b
15
Nibelheim North Wall 2 VS 4c
16
Right-hand Route North Wall 1 HS 4b
17
Big Brother North Wall 2 E2 5c
18
Strange Little Girl North Wall 3 E4 6a
19
The Angel's Eye North Wall 2 HVS 5b
20
Joe's Route North Wall 2 VS 4c
1
Original Route Great Wall 1 VD
1
Crystal Tips Central Bay HVS 5b
2
Paul's Wall Central Bay 1 HVS 5a
3
Spinal Tap Central Bay E3 6a
4
Grey Wall Central Bay 1 HVS 5a
5
Espresso Bongo Central Bay E1 5b
6
Corner Buttress Route 1 Central Bay 1 VD 4a
7
Corner Buttress Route 2 Central Bay 1 VD 4a
8
Corner Buttress Route 3 Central Bay 1 M
9
Cement Groove Central Bay Diff
10
Direct Route Central Bay Diff
11
Pig Iron Central Bay 1 E1 5b
12
Black Wall Left Central Bay HVS 5a
13
Black Wall Central Bay 1 HVS 5a
1
Microserf South Bay 1 7a
2
Valley Forge South Bay 2 E2 5c
3
Yr Herwehla South Bay 1 E1 5b
4
Therapy South Bay 1 E2 5c
5
Bottle Buttress South Bay 2 VD 4a
6
Bottle Buttress Direct South Bay 1 VS 4c
7
Central Rib Route I South Bay 3 S 4a
8
Central Rib Route II South Bay 2 VS 5a
1
Zelda Far South Bay 3 HS 4b
2
Cheetah Far South Bay 2 HVS 5a
3
Never Say Die Far South Bay 2 E2 5c
4
Never Say Never Again Far South Bay 2 6b+
1
Kaiser Wall GO Wall 3 E3 6a
2
Heil Hitler! GO Wall 2 7a
3
The Lurking Smear GO Wall 1 7a
4
King Kong GO Wall 3 E1 5b
5
Kangaroo Wall GO Wall 3 E2 6a
6
Hyena Cage GO Wall 3 E4 6a
7
Dog Eat Dog GO Wall 3 E5 6a
8
The Jackal GO Wall 3 E5 6a
9
The Isle of Dogs GO Wall 2 7a+
10
Never Say Goodbye GO Wall 3 E2 5c
11
Surrealist Pitch 3 GO Wall 3 E1 5b
1
Delicious Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls 6a
2
Still Nice and Still Sleazy Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls 3 6a+
3
Schrodinger's Cat, Earl Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls 1 6a+
4
Heisenberg's Uncertain Reach. Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls 2 6b
5
The Last Kingdom Woodcroft Q - The Sunny and Sleaze Walls 1 6a+
1
The Only Way is Wessex Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 5c
2
Spooky Action Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 2 6a+
3
Playing Hooky Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 6a+
4
Forty Years Apiece Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 4c
5
Between the Lines Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 6a
6
Leopards Ate My Face! Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 5b
7
The Shovel Man Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 6a+
8
Bulls Eye Becca (1) Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 3c
9
Bull's Eye Becca (2) Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 4b
10
Look at What You Could've Won Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 5a
11
Just "Kill 'Em" jones Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 6a
12
Corner Crack Eliminate Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 6b+
13
Thingfrith left-hand start Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 5b
14
Thingfrith Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 6a+
15
Tea for One Woodcroft Q - Upper Lift 1 6a+
1
Out of your tree Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift 1 5c
2
See It, Sort It! Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift 6b
3
Ankarana Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift 1 6a
4
Much Zebu Crudness Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift 1 6b
5
Let That Be A Lesson Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift 1 4c
6
Scrager Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift 4c
7
Barney's Walk Woodcroft Q - The Basement Lift 4b
1
Dooglie Ooglie Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall 1 6c
2
Dr Grunt Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall 6b
3
Are they inviting Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall 1 6b
4
The New Neighbour Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall 1 6a+
5
Only Joking Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall 6a+
6
The Italian G Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall 6c
7
The Boy Did Good Woodcroft Q - Not The Warehouse Wall 6a+
1
Meeting on a Jet Plane Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector 1 6a
2
Jacqui Big Tits Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector 6b+
3
A Blast from the Past Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector 2 6c+
4
Gun Blast Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector 6a+
5
Gunshot (Tommo's Varient) Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector 1 7a+
6
Gunshot Wound to the Head Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector 2 6c
7
Don't Lower the Tone Woodcroft Q - Gunshot Sector 1 7a+
1
Caveat Emptor Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter 1 6a
2
Dog of the Month Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter 1 6a+
3
Henry Sucks Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter 5b
4
Be Gentle Woodcroft Q - Latin Quarter 4c
1
Moving On Up Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 2 6a
2
A Bit On The Side Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 6a
3
Slimming in the Rain Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 4c
4
Slim and Toned Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 7b
5
Rippled and Toned Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 7a
6
Lean Dark Hombre Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 6c+
7
Two Mules for Sister Sara Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 6b+
8
Ally Oops Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 6a+
9
Oops Upside Your Head Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 6a+
10
Military Discount Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 7b+
11
Saudi Air (2) Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 7b
12
Saudi Air Woodcroft Q - The Amphitheatre 1 6b
1
Earl Mac Lovin' Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress 4c
2
Two Beamer Earl Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress 4c
3
Fabulous in Fuscia Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress 6a
4
Tacky Teca Woodcroft Q - Bijou Buttress 5b
1
Papillon Fly Wall 2 E2 5b
2
Butterfly Fly Wall 2 VS 4c
3
Moth Fly Wall 1 HS 4b
4
Flies Rise Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
5
Swatter Fly Wall 2 HVS 5a
6
The Split Fly Wall 2 VS 5a
7
Split Flies Fly Wall 1 E3 6a
8
Ecliptic Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
9
Mosquito Bite Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
10
African Killer Bee Fly Wall 2 VS 4c
11
Phoenix Fly Wall HS 4b
12
Dazed and Confused Fly Wall 1 HVS 5a
13
A Fly In The Eye? Fly Wall 2 E3 5c
14
Freedom Fly Wall 3 VS 4c
15
Freedom Direct Fly Wall 3 E1 5b
16
Swallow's Nest Fly Wall 2 VS 4c
17
Flyhole Fly Wall 1 E1 5b
18
Balls Out Fly Wall 1 E2 5b
19
Bulging Flies Fly Wall 2 E3 5c
20
Flyover Fly Wall 2 E3 6a
21
La Folie Fly Wall 3 E4 6a
22
Firefly Fly Wall 3 E3 5c
23
Wurlitzer Fly Wall 3 E1 5c
24
Gendarmerie Fly Wall 3 E4 5c
25
Dragonfly Fly Wall 1 HVS 5a
26
Big Fly Direct Fly Wall 3 E1 5a

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