Luckey Tor is a delightful small granite bluff located in an idyllic clearing on the banks of the River Dart. The climbs are not particularly impressive and are shrouded by trees in the summer months, but in the right conditions, this is a fine place to spend a day. The routes are physical, being steep with plenty of overhangs and jamming cracks peppering the crag. Protection is often at hand, although the lesser-travelled pitches can gather moss and vegetation. The walk to the crag is very pleasant and, although one of the longer approaches on Dartmoor, it is flat and enchanting.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Main Gully | Luckey Tor Routes | Diff | |
2 |
Posthumous Teacakes | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | VS 4c |
3 |
Rocking Block | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | E1 5b |
4 |
Ivy Wall | Luckey Tor Routes | 2 | VS 4c |
5 |
The Eyrie | Luckey Tor Routes | 2 | E2 5c |
6 |
Tough Luckey | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | E3 5c |
7 |
Eagle's Nest | Luckey Tor Routes | 2 | S 4a |
8 |
Original Route | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | S 4a |
9 |
Windy Ceiling | Luckey Tor Routes | E1 5c | |
10 |
Songline | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | HVS 5b |
11 |
Bloodshot | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | E1 5b |
12 |
Rendezvous with Windy | Luckey Tor Routes | E3 6a | |
13 |
Black Jam Arete | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | E1 5b |
14 |
Black Jam Crack | Luckey Tor Routes | 1 | VS 4c |
15 |
Marmalade Wall | Luckey Tor Routes | E4 6a | |
16 |
Right Hand Chimney | Luckey Tor Routes | Diff |
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