Stoney is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yardstick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitterfingers, Wee Doris and Oliver. It isn't all trad though and the sport routes of Garage Buttress are probably the busiest on the crag nowadays, especially in the colder months when the crag becomes a relatively sheltered suntrap.Away from the classic trad lines and the sport routes, the place has become a bit neglected and care is needed if you stray onto a less-travelled section of the crag. There is some loose rock (usually only minor small holds), but a helmet is advisable even for the sport routes. The proximity of the road is convenient for approach but can be noisy, especially mid-week when there are significantly more lorries. This is less of an issue in the bays and the Electric Quarry.The best advice is to come and try it for yourself, but be prepared for the odd bit of loose rock, a few polished footholds, some awkward runner placements and pretty solid grades. The crag has been an icon of Peak limestone climbing for years - long may this continue.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Roraima | The Electric Quarry | HVS 5b | |
2 |
Helmut Schmitt | The Electric Quarry | 2 | E6 6b |
3 |
Cabbage Crack | The Electric Quarry | 2 | E4 6a |
4 |
Jasper | The Electric Quarry | 2 | E3 6a |
5 |
The Heat | The Electric Quarry | 1 | E6 6b |
6 |
Oliver | The Electric Quarry | 3 | E4 6a |
7 |
Millionaire Touch | The Electric Quarry | 3 | E4 6b |
8 |
X Calibre | The Electric Quarry | E6 6b | |
9 |
Brown Corner | The Electric Quarry | 1 | HVS 5a |
10 |
One 'ard Move | The Electric Quarry | 1 | E6 6c |
11 |
Damocles | The Electric Quarry | 1 | E3 5b |
12 |
Golden Boy | The Electric Quarry | 1 | E5 6b |
13 |
Emotional Rescue | The Electric Quarry | 1 | E5 6b |
14 |
John Peel | The Electric Quarry | 1 | E2 5b |
15 |
Creeping Flesh | The Electric Quarry | E4 6a | |
16 |
Icarus | The Electric Quarry | HS 4a | |
17 |
Vicky | The Electric Quarry | E1 5b | |
18 |
Daedalus | The Electric Quarry | E3 6a | |
19 |
Psychopath | The Electric Quarry | E1 5b | |
20 |
Lard Wall | The Electric Quarry | E5 6a | |
21 |
Gollyberry | The Electric Quarry | 1 | E2 5c |
1 |
Is Ya Ready? | The Slurper | E2 5b | |
2 |
Whasupwithi? | The Slurper | E2 5b | |
3 |
Is Ya Alright? | The Slurper | E3 5c | |
4 |
How it Be? | The Slurper | E2 5c | |
5 |
Get Six into the Mix | The Slurper | E3 5c | |
6 |
Will Ya be Ready? | The Slurper | E2 5c | |
7 |
Acrophobia | The Slurper | 1 | HVS 5a |
8 |
Fallout | The Slurper | HVS 5b | |
9 |
J.Arthur | The Slurper | E1 5b | |
10 |
Arachnid | The Slurper | 1 | E3 6a |
11 |
Easy Action | The Slurper | 1 | E1 5b |
12 |
The Slurper | The Slurper | 1 | E1 5c |
13 |
The Disillusioned Brew Machine | The Slurper | E3 5c | |
14 |
Drink and Be Merry | The Slurper | E4 6b | |
1 |
Co-conspirator | Mortuary Steps | E2 5b | |
2 |
Flared Beginnings | Mortuary Steps | VS 4c | |
3 |
Drainpipe Groove | Mortuary Steps | VS 4c | |
4 |
Straight Leg | Mortuary Steps | E2 5b | |
5 |
The Profusionist | Mortuary Steps | E3 5c | |
6 |
Death is Part of the Process | Mortuary Steps | E4 6b | |
7 |
Speed Kills | Mortuary Steps | 1 | E4 6a |
8 |
The Morgue | Mortuary Steps | 1 | E3 5c |
9 |
Grave Snatcher | Mortuary Steps | E5 6b | |
10 |
Mortuary Steps | Mortuary Steps | 2 | HVS 5b |
11 |
Cardiac Arrest | Mortuary Steps | 1 | E4 6a |
12 |
Hart Attack | Mortuary Steps | E5 6b | |
13 |
Beta Blocker | Mortuary Steps | 1 | E5 6b |
14 |
Little Capucin | Mortuary Steps | 1 | HVS 5a |
15 |
Midi | Mortuary Steps | 1 | E2 5c |
1 |
Who the Hell | The Triglyph | E1 5c | |
2 |
To Hell and Back | The Triglyph | E3 5b | |
3 |
How the Hell? | The Triglyph | 1 | VS 4c |
4 |
What the Hell? | The Triglyph | 1 | VS 4b |
5 |
Hell Hath No Fury | The Triglyph | E2 5b | |
6 |
Morning Crack | The Triglyph | 1 | S 4a |
1 |
Little Crack | Carl's Wark | VS 5a | |
2 |
Flake and Pillar | Carl's Wark | E1 5b | |
3 |
Squeek | Carl's Wark | E5 6b | |
4 |
Bubbles Wall | Carl's Wark | 2 | E4 6b |
5 |
Black Kabul | Carl's Wark | 1 | E5 6b |
6 |
Carl's Wark Crack | Carl's Wark | 2 | E2 5c |
7 |
Scarab | Carl's Wark | 2 | E6 6b |
8 |
All Systems Go | Carl's Wark | 1 | E6 6c |
9 |
Green Crack | Carl's Wark | 1 | VS 4c |
10 |
Soapsuds | Carl's Wark | 1 | E3 6a |
1 |
Omlette | Prayer Wheel Wall | E3 6a | |
2 |
Om | Prayer Wheel Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
3 |
This Shit Wall | Prayer Wheel Wall | E2 5b | |
4 |
Nowt Said | Prayer Wheel Wall | E2 5c | |
5 |
Mani | Prayer Wheel Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
6 |
Blinkers | Prayer Wheel Wall | E2 5c | |
7 |
Padme | Prayer Wheel Wall | 2 | HVS 5a |
8 |
Sign My Name | Prayer Wheel Wall | E3 5c | |
9 |
Asparagus | Prayer Wheel Wall | 1 | VS 4b |
10 |
Looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes | Prayer Wheel Wall | HVS 5a | |
11 |
Robin | Prayer Wheel Wall | E2 5b | |
12 |
Cock-a-leekie Wall | Prayer Wheel Wall | E2 6a | |
13 |
Vinegar Fly | Prayer Wheel Wall | HVS 5a | |
14 |
Minestrone | Prayer Wheel Wall | 1 | HVS 4c |
15 |
Rosehip Wine | Prayer Wheel Wall | 1 | HS 4a |
16 |
Pollyanna | Prayer Wheel Wall | E1 5b | |
17 |
Horizon | Prayer Wheel Wall | S 4a | |
18 |
Canine of Brine | Prayer Wheel Wall | E2 5b | |
19 |
Juggernaut | Prayer Wheel Wall | VS 5a | |
20 |
Lost Horizon | Prayer Wheel Wall | S 4a | |
21 |
Aux Bicyclettes | Prayer Wheel Wall | VD | |
22 |
Fingal's Flue | Prayer Wheel Wall | HS 3c | |
23 |
Fingal's Cave | Prayer Wheel Wall | HVS 5a | |
24 |
The Groper | Prayer Wheel Wall | VS 4c | |
25 |
The White Knight | Prayer Wheel Wall | VD | |
1 |
Ben | Pearly Gates Area | E2 5c | |
2 |
Gabriel | Pearly Gates Area | 3 | VS 4c |
3 |
Pearly Gates | Pearly Gates Area | 3 | VS 4c |
4 |
Solitaire | Pearly Gates Area | 1 | E1 5b |
5 |
St. Peter | Pearly Gates Area | 1 | E1 5c |
6 |
St. Paul | Pearly Gates Area | E3 5c | |
7 |
Parachute | Pearly Gates Area | 1 | VS 4b |
8 |
Roman Candle | Pearly Gates Area | VS 4c | |
9 |
Au Gratin | Pearly Gates Area | HS 4a | |
1 |
Minus Wall | Minus Ten Wall | E1 5b | |
2 |
Minus Ten | Minus Ten Wall | 1 | HVS 5a |
3 |
Great Escape | Minus Ten Wall | E1 5b | |
4 |
Jam Sandwich | Minus Ten Wall | E5 6b | |
5 |
Traffic Jam | Minus Ten Wall | 2 | E5 6b |
6 |
Double Scotch | Minus Ten Wall | 1 | E2 5b |
7 |
Cointreau | Minus Ten Wall | 1 | HVS 5a |
8 |
Thrutch | Minus Ten Wall | HVS 5a | |
9 |
Pygmies Walk Tall | Minus Ten Wall | 1 | E1 5b |
1 |
Sickle | Medusa Bay | 1 | E1 5a |
2 |
Boat Pusher's Wall | Medusa Bay | 1 | E3 5c |
3 |
Big Boris | Medusa Bay | E5 6a | |
4 |
Wee Doris | Medusa Bay | 3 | E4 5c |
5 |
Medusa | Medusa Bay | 2 | E1 5b |
6 |
Gesemini Direct | Medusa Bay | 1 | E3 5c |
7 |
Pickpocket | Medusa Bay | 2 | E4 6a |
8 |
Frisco Bay | Medusa Bay | 1 | VS 4c |
9 |
Golden Gate | Medusa Bay | 2 | HVS 5a |
10 |
Bingo Wall | Medusa Bay | 2 | E2 5b |
11 |
Mind Blind | Medusa Bay | E6 6b | |
12 |
Kelly's Eye | Medusa Bay | 1 | E4 6a |
13 |
The Brighton Line | Medusa Bay | E1 5b | |
1 |
Belinda | Bitterfingers | 1 | E4 6a |
2 |
Froth | Bitterfingers | 2 | VS 4c |
3 |
Wallop | Bitterfingers | 1 | HS 4b |
4 |
Born Again | Bitterfingers | E2 5c | |
5 |
Mottled Wall | Bitterfingers | 1 | E4 5c |
6 |
Mingtled Wall/Top Banana | Bitterfingers | 1 | E3 6a |
7 |
Dead Banana Crack | Bitterfingers | 3 | E1 5c |
8 |
The Great Leveller | Bitterfingers | E4 6a | |
9 |
Bitterfingers | Bitterfingers | 3 | E4 6a |
10 |
Fe Fi Fo Fum | Bitterfingers | 1 | HVS 5a |
11 |
Okra | Bitterfingers | 1 | E4 6a |
12 |
Saag Line | Bitterfingers | E4 6b | |
13 |
Beanstalk | Bitterfingers | E3 5c | |
14 |
Augean | Bitterfingers | 1 | VS 4c |
15 |
Hercules | Bitterfingers | E4 5c | |
16 |
Sisyphean | Bitterfingers | E4 6a | |
17 |
Ivy Grotto Direct | Bitterfingers | HVS 5a | |
18 |
Slab and Arete | Bitterfingers | HVS 5a | |
19 |
Anything Corner | Bitterfingers | VS 4b | |
20 |
Mineshaft | Bitterfingers | 1 | M |
21 |
Tantalus | Bitterfingers | HS 4b | |
1 |
Babylon Bypass | Tower of Babel | HVS 4c | |
2 |
Babelicious | Tower of Babel | E1 5b | |
3 |
Glory Road | Tower of Babel | 1 | VS 4b |
4 |
The Glory Trail | Tower of Babel | 1 | E2 5c |
5 |
Sin | Tower of Babel | 2 | VS 4c |
6 |
Lucy Simmons | Tower of Babel | 1 | E2 5b |
7 |
Lucy Simmonds Variation | Tower of Babel | E2 5b | |
8 |
The Tower of Babel | Tower of Babel | E1 5b | |
1 |
Chantrelle | Windy Buttress | E2 5c | |
2 |
Do Nothing | Windy Buttress | E3 5c | |
3 |
Inquisitor | Windy Buttress | 1 | E2 5c |
4 |
Tuba Mirum | Windy Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
5 |
Dies Irae | Windy Buttress | 3 | E2 5c |
6 |
Stuff the Turkey | Windy Buttress | E4 6b | |
7 |
Circe | Windy Buttress | 2 | E5 6b |
8 |
Swine Vesicular | Windy Buttress | E5 6c | |
9 |
Gaspera | Windy Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
10 |
Kink | Windy Buttress | 2 | E5 6b |
11 |
Kinky | Windy Buttress | 7c | |
12 |
Kellogg | Windy Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
13 |
Nice in Nice | Windy Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
14 |
Kingdom Come | Windy Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
15 |
Special K | Windy Buttress | 1 | E4 6a |
16 |
The Flakes | Windy Buttress | 2 | E2 5c |
17 |
The Flakes Direct | Windy Buttress | 3 | E2 5c |
18 |
Armageddon | Windy Buttress | 3 | E2 5c |
19 |
Windhover | Windy Buttress | 2 | E2 5c |
20 |
Alcasan | Windy Buttress | 3 | E2 5c |
21 |
Transmaiacon MC | Windy Buttress | E5 6a | |
22 |
Choss | Windy Buttress | 1 | E1 5b |
23 |
Dross | Windy Buttress | E5 6b | |
24 |
Scoop Wall | Windy Buttress | 3 | E2 5c |
25 |
In Corpus | Windy Buttress | E5 6a | |
26 |
Our Father | Windy Buttress | 3 | E4 6b |
27 |
Menopause | Windy Buttress | 2 | E5 6b |
28 |
Hysterectomy | Windy Buttress | E5 6c | |
29 |
Adios Tango | Windy Buttress | 1 | E4 6a |
30 |
Tiger Trot | Windy Buttress | 1 | VD |
31 |
You Are Only Mortal | Windy Buttress | E4 6b | |
32 |
Immortal Combat | Windy Buttress | 6b+ | |
33 |
Breathing Underwater | Windy Buttress | E4 5c | |
34 |
Breathe Easy | Windy Buttress | 7a | |
35 |
Memnon | Windy Buttress | 1 | E2 5c |
36 |
Black Power | Windy Buttress | 6c+ | |
37 |
Racial Harmony | Windy Buttress | E4 5c | |
38 |
No Knees | Windy Buttress | 6c | |
39 |
Aurora | Windy Buttress | 2 | VS 4c |
40 |
Aurora Arete | Windy Buttress | 2 | HVS 5a |
1 |
Compositae Groove | Garage Buttress | 1 | HVS 5a |
2 |
Ticket to the Underworld | Garage Buttress | E4 5c | |
3 |
In Composite | Garage Buttress | E2 5b | |
4 |
Trigger | Garage Buttress | 7a+ | |
5 |
Two Ton Ted from Teddington | Garage Buttress | 6b+ | |
6 |
Grotty Totty | Garage Buttress | E1 5b | |
7 |
Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door | Garage Buttress | 6c | |
8 |
Happy Wanderer | Garage Buttress | E1 5b | |
9 |
Bohemian | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
10 |
Empty Cartridge | Garage Buttress | 6b | |
11 |
Unloaded | Garage Buttress | 6b+ | |
12 |
Reloaded | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
13 |
Matrix | Garage Buttress | E3 5b | |
14 |
Matricide | Garage Buttress | E4 6a | |
15 |
I Hate You | Garage Buttress | 1 | 7a |
16 |
Four Minute Tiler | Garage Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
17 |
Alex It was Nothing Really | Garage Buttress | E5 6b | |
18 |
Colonel Bogey | Garage Buttress | 2 | E4 6a |
19 |
La Belle et la Bete | Garage Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
20 |
Rippemoff | Garage Buttress | 1 | E1 5c |
21 |
Helicon | Garage Buttress | 2 | E2 5c |
22 |
Pullemdown | Garage Buttress | E5 6a | |
23 |
Snatchemoff | Garage Buttress | E4 5c | |
24 |
Chewemoff | Garage Buttress | 1 | E4 6a |
25 |
Gerremdown | Garage Buttress | E4 6a | |
26 |
Turf 'em Off | Garage Buttress | 6b+ | |
27 |
Glue 'em Back | Garage Buttress | 7b | |
28 |
There May Be Rubble Ahead | Garage Buttress | 7b+ | |
29 |
Dig Deeper | Garage Buttress | 1 | 8a |
30 |
Dig Deep for Victory | Garage Buttress | 7c | |
31 |
Do You Dig It? | Garage Buttress | 7c | |
32 |
Ozone Bozo | Garage Buttress | 1 | 7c |
33 |
Tollbar | Garage Buttress | 2 | 8a+ |
34 |
Double the Rubble | Garage Buttress | 1 | 7c |
35 |
Trouble with Rubble | Garage Buttress | 1 | 7c+ |
36 |
The Big Apple | Garage Buttress | 1 | 8a |
37 |
Golden Delicious | Garage Buttress | 1 | 8a |
38 |
Cankerdown | Garage Buttress | 1 | 8a |
39 |
Little Plum | Garage Buttress | 3 | 8a |
40 |
Easy Skanking | Garage Buttress | E6 6b | |
41 |
The Lover's Leap | Garage Buttress | 1 | 7b+ |
42 |
Ming the Merciless | Garage Buttress | 8a+ | |
43 |
Virgin on the Loose | Garage Buttress | E6 6b | |
44 |
Smoothlands | Garage Buttress | 6a | |
45 |
Lowerlands | Garage Buttress | 5c | |
46 |
Virgin King | Garage Buttress | 2 | 7b+ |
47 |
Flycatcher | Garage Buttress | E5 6a | |
48 |
Lowlands | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6c+ |
49 |
Dreamcatcher | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
50 |
Creamsnatcher | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6b |
51 |
Gulp and Go | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
52 |
Evasor | Garage Buttress | 2 | VS 4c |
53 |
Pendulum | Garage Buttress | 2 | HVS 5a |
54 |
Can't Stop Now | Garage Buttress | 6c | |
55 |
Redeployed | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6c+ |
56 |
Up Yours | Garage Buttress | 1 | 7a |
57 |
Two Thousand | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6a+ |
58 |
Four Thousand | Garage Buttress | 2 | 6b+ |
59 |
Onwards and Upwards | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6a |
60 |
Nowt about Change | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6b |
61 |
Just End It! | Garage Buttress | 1 | 6a+ |
62 |
End, Stop, Finale | Garage Buttress | 6b | |
63 |
The Last Stop | Garage Buttress | 5b |
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