The beautiful and popular Dovedale Valley has a fine set of crags lining its sides. These consist of compact walls and some pinnacles and fins with the added attraction of giving a full summit experience. It is extremely popular with walkers and ascents of the free-standing tower of Ilam Rock, the twin caves of Dove Holes and the spectacular Reynard\'s Arch will always draw a crowd of onlookers. Fortunately there are plenty of more discreet bits of rock for those who don\'t perform well in front of a crowd. Many pieces of the buttresses only have a small set of quality routes and, to get the most out of a day, you will probably need to go to more than one buttress. The valley path makes this relatively straight forward, although getting to Dovedale Church and the upper reaches of Tissington Spires is more demanding.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Flying Blackberry | Baley Buttress | E3 6a | |
2 |
Ribit | Baley Buttress | 1 | E4 6b |
3 |
Claw Left-hand | Baley Buttress | 2 | E1 5b |
4 |
The Claw | Baley Buttress | 2 | HVS 5a |
5 |
The Dovetail Dash | Baley Buttress | E4 6a | |
6 |
Swallow Tails | Baley Buttress | E3 6a | |
7 |
Swallow Tails Right | Baley Buttress | E1 5b | |
8 |
Bill Baley | Baley Buttress | VS 4b | |
1 |
Ohm Alone | Ravens Tor | 6b | |
2 |
Ohm from Ohm | Ravens Tor | 6a | |
3 |
Tennessee Waltz | Ravens Tor | 1 | HVS 5b |
4 |
Southern Rib | Ravens Tor | 2 | E1 5b |
5 |
The Temptress | Ravens Tor | 2 | E5 6a |
6 |
Left-hand Route | Ravens Tor | 2 | E1 5b |
7 |
McTrad | Ravens Tor | E5 6b | |
8 |
Deltoid Shuffle | Ravens Tor | 1 | E4 5c |
9 |
Raven | Ravens Tor | 1 | E2 5c |
10 |
Brown's Blunder | Ravens Tor | 1 | VS 4c |
11 |
Aquarius | Ravens Tor | 2 | E2 5c |
12 |
Central Wall | Ravens Tor | 1 | E3 5c |
13 |
Central Wall Direct | Ravens Tor | E4 6b | |
14 |
Judas | Ravens Tor | E5 6b | |
15 |
The Doldrums | Ravens Tor | E3 5c | |
16 |
Bus Pass Buttress | Ravens Tor | E4 6a | |
17 |
Venery | Ravens Tor | 2 | HVS 4c |
18 |
Parrot Face | Ravens Tor | 1 | HVS 5a |
19 |
Paperback Road | Ravens Tor | 1 | 6c |
20 |
Psalm 51 | Ravens Tor | 1 | 6b+ |
21 |
Skewball | Ravens Tor | VS 4c | |
22 |
Loretta | Ravens Tor | 6b | |
23 |
Dancing Days | Ravens Tor | 6b | |
24 |
Pistol Blues | Ravens Tor | 6c | |
25 |
Jugbit Direct | Ravens Tor | 1 | 6b |
26 |
Tendonitis Sucks | Ravens Tor | 2 | 7a |
27 |
Hammerhead Blues | Ravens Tor | 6b | |
1 |
The Archers | Dove Holes | 7b | |
2 |
The Ball | Dove Holes | 1 | A2 |
3 |
Pumping Iron | Dove Holes | E5 6b | |
4 |
Restricted Practices | Dove Holes | E5 6b | |
5 |
The Wicked | Dove Holes | 1 | A2 |
6 |
The Bat | Dove Holes | 3 | A1 |
7 |
Middle Stump | Dove Holes | 3 | A2 |
8 |
Follow the Bear | Dove Holes | E5 6b | |
9 |
Police and Thieves | Dove Holes | 2 | E4 6a |
10 |
The Umpire | Dove Holes | 1 | 6c |
1 |
Original Route | Ilam Rock | HS 4a | |
2 |
The Wong Edge | Ilam Rock | 2 | E3 6a |
3 |
The Groove | Ilam Rock | 1 | E2 5c |
4 |
The Gladiator | Ilam Rock | 3 | E4 6a |
5 |
Steve's Route | Ilam Rock | 2 | E6 6c |
6 |
Eye of the Tiger | Ilam Rock | 3 | E7 6c |
7 |
The Final Round | Ilam Rock | 3 | E9 6c |
8 |
The White Edge | Ilam Rock | 1 | E3 6a |
9 |
Easter Island | Ilam Rock | 2 | E2 5c |
10 |
Easter Edge | Ilam Rock | 2 | E1 5b |
1 |
Pickering Ridge | Pickering Pinnacle | VS 4b | |
2 |
What Crisis? | Pickering Pinnacle | HVS 5a | |
3 |
Crisis | Pickering Pinnacle | E5 6c | |
4 |
Daylight Robbery | Pickering Pinnacle | E1 5b | |
5 |
Monsieur Mange Tout | Pickering Pinnacle | 1 | E5 6b |
6 |
The River | Pickering Pinnacle | E4 6a | |
7 |
Pickering's Overhang | Pickering Pinnacle | 1 | E1 5b |
8 |
The Flake | Pickering Pinnacle | 1 | E1 5c |
9 |
Jaguar Smile | Pickering Pinnacle | E4 6a | |
10 |
Chunky Punky | Pickering Pinnacle | HVS 5a | |
11 |
Original Route | Pickering Pinnacle | S 3c | |
1 |
Final Witness | Thunderball | 1 | E2 5b |
2 |
Thunderball | Thunderball | 1 | E1 5b |
3 |
Red Eye | Thunderball | E1 5b | |
4 |
Suspended Sentence | Thunderball | E5 6b | |
5 |
Harold Wilson | Thunderball | E2 5b | |
6 |
Palsy Wall | Thunderball | HVS 5a | |
1 |
Wall of Straws | The Watchblock | 3 | E5 6b |
2 |
Three Piece Combo | The Watchblock | 1 | E4 6a |
3 |
Eyes Wide Shut | The Watchblock | 2 | E8 6c |
4 |
Adjudicator Wall | The Watchblock | 3 | E3 5c |
5 |
Nancy Whisky | The Watchblock | 1 | E1 5b |
6 |
Watchblock Direct | The Watchblock | HVS 5b | |
7 |
Beginner's Luck | The Watchblock | 1 | HS 4a |
8 |
Uncontrollable Urge | The Watchblock | HVS 5a | |
1 |
The Lime Arch | Reynard's Arch | 3 | 6b+ |
2 |
Jonah's Boner | Reynard's Arch | 2 | 7c |
3 |
Arch Rival | Reynard's Arch | 1 | 7a |
4 |
Arch Enemies | Reynard's Arch | 3 | 7c+ |
5 |
Sworn Enemy | Reynard's Arch | 3 | 8a |
6 |
Things Ain't Like They Used to Be | Reynard's Arch | 1 | 7a+ |
7 |
Can You Believe It | Reynard's Arch | 1 | 6b |
1 |
Campanile | Campanile Pinnacle | 1 | S 4a |
2 |
Whacko | Campanile Pinnacle | 2 | E4 6a |
3 |
The Man with X-Ray Eyes | Campanile Pinnacle | E2 5b | |
1 |
A Secret State | Silicon Wall | 1 | E3 5c |
2 |
Under Pressure | Silicon Wall | HVS 5b | |
3 |
Silicon | Silicon Wall | 2 | HS 4b |
4 |
Manna Machine | Silicon Wall | 1 | VS 4c |
5 |
Don van Vliet | Silicon Wall | E1 5c | |
1 |
Rose Bowl | Ten Craters of Wisdom | 1 | HVS 5b |
2 |
Ten Craters of Wisdom | Ten Craters of Wisdom | 3 | VS 5a |
3 |
Simeon | Ten Craters of Wisdom | 1 | VS 4c |
4 |
Simeon Direct | Ten Craters of Wisdom | 2 | HVS 5a |
5 |
Archibald the Grim | Ten Craters of Wisdom | 1 | E2 5c |
1 |
Mandarin | John Peel Wall | E1 5a | |
2 |
Brutus | John Peel Wall | 2 | E1 5b |
3 |
There Will Be Blood | John Peel Wall | 1 | 8a |
4 |
Caesar | John Peel Wall | 2 | E4 6a |
5 |
George | John Peel Wall | 3 | E1 5b |
6 |
Destot's Gap | John Peel Wall | E5 6c | |
7 |
Bye, George | John Peel Wall | 1 | E3 5c |
8 |
John Peel | John Peel Wall | 3 | HVS 5a |
9 |
Black Flip | John Peel Wall | 1 | E4 6a |
10 |
Wild Bill | John Peel Wall | 1 | E2 5c |
11 |
Crazy Horse | John Peel Wall | E4 6a | |
12 |
Yew Tree Wall | John Peel Wall | 3 | E1 5c |
13 |
Geronimo | John Peel Wall | E3 6a | |
14 |
Calamity Jane | John Peel Wall | E1 5b | |
15 |
Orange Peel | John Peel Wall | 1 | E3 6a |
1 |
Zulu Dawn | South Gully Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
2 |
And the Weather | South Gully Buttress | E1 5b | |
3 |
Dr Livingstone | South Gully Buttress | VS 4b | |
4 |
Stanley Wall | South Gully Buttress | VS 4c | |
5 |
The Mystery Tour | South Gully Buttress | HS 4b | |
1 |
Sold Down the River | Dovedale Church | E5 6b | |
2 |
Unwholly Ceremony | Dovedale Church | 7c | |
3 |
Pussyfoot | Dovedale Church | VD | |
4 |
Unknown Crack | Dovedale Church | VS 4c | |
5 |
Bob Can't Cope | Dovedale Church | E3 5b | |
6 |
Bob Hope | Dovedale Church | E2 5b | |
7 |
Meeting Across the River | Dovedale Church | 2 | E4 6a |
8 |
American Style | Dovedale Church | 1 | E4 6b |
9 |
Bolt it and Believe it | Dovedale Church | 1 | 7c |
10 |
Crypt Route | Dovedale Church | 1 | S 4a |
11 |
No Turning Back | Dovedale Church | 1 | E5 6b |
12 |
French Technique | Dovedale Church | 1 | 7a |
13 |
Tales of the Riverbank | Dovedale Church | 3 | E5 6a |
14 |
Pogles' Wood | Dovedale Church | E4 6a | |
15 |
The Rattler | Dovedale Church | 1 | HVS 5b |
16 |
Horner | Dovedale Church | HS 4c | |
17 |
Anaconda | Dovedale Church | 2 | E1 5b |
18 |
Phil's Route | Dovedale Church | 3 | E2 5c |
19 |
Jungle Land | Dovedale Church | 3 | E5 6b |
20 |
Amazona | Dovedale Church | 3 | E6 6c |
21 |
Wild Country | Dovedale Church | E5 6c | |
22 |
Snakes Alive | Dovedale Church | 3 | VS 4c |
23 |
Judge Jeffries | Dovedale Church | HVS 5c | |
24 |
Blue Sister | Dovedale Church | 1 | E4 6a |
25 |
Quiet Life | Dovedale Church | 2 | E3 6a |
26 |
Cryptic Crack | Dovedale Church | VD |
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