Dovedale

The beautiful and popular Dovedale Valley has a fine set of crags lining its sides. These consist of compact walls and some pinnacles and fins with the added attraction of giving a full summit experience. It is extremely popular with walkers and ascents of the free-standing tower of Ilam Rock, the twin caves of Dove Holes and the spectacular Reynard\'s Arch will always draw a crowd of onlookers. Fortunately there are plenty of more discreet bits of rock for those who don\'t perform well in front of a crowd. Many pieces of the buttresses only have a small set of quality routes and, to get the most out of a day, you will probably need to go to more than one buttress. The valley path makes this relatively straight forward, although getting to Dovedale Church and the upper reaches of Tissington Spires is more demanding.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Flying Blackberry Baley Buttress E3 6a
2
Ribit Baley Buttress 1 E4 6b
3
Claw Left-hand Baley Buttress 2 E1 5b
4
The Claw Baley Buttress 2 HVS 5a
5
The Dovetail Dash Baley Buttress E4 6a
6
Swallow Tails Baley Buttress E3 6a
7
Swallow Tails Right Baley Buttress E1 5b
8
Bill Baley Baley Buttress VS 4b
1
Ohm Alone Ravens Tor 6b
2
Ohm from Ohm Ravens Tor 6a
3
Tennessee Waltz Ravens Tor 1 HVS 5b
4
Southern Rib Ravens Tor 2 E1 5b
5
The Temptress Ravens Tor 2 E5 6a
6
Left-hand Route Ravens Tor 2 E1 5b
7
McTrad Ravens Tor E5 6b
8
Deltoid Shuffle Ravens Tor 1 E4 5c
9
Raven Ravens Tor 1 E2 5c
10
Brown's Blunder Ravens Tor 1 VS 4c
11
Aquarius Ravens Tor 2 E2 5c
12
Central Wall Ravens Tor 1 E3 5c
13
Central Wall Direct Ravens Tor E4 6b
14
Judas Ravens Tor E5 6b
15
The Doldrums Ravens Tor E3 5c
16
Bus Pass Buttress Ravens Tor E4 6a
17
Venery Ravens Tor 2 HVS 4c
18
Parrot Face Ravens Tor 1 HVS 5a
19
Paperback Road Ravens Tor 1 6c
20
Psalm 51 Ravens Tor 1 6b+
21
Skewball Ravens Tor VS 4c
22
Loretta Ravens Tor 6b
23
Dancing Days Ravens Tor 6b
24
Pistol Blues Ravens Tor 6c
25
Jugbit Direct Ravens Tor 1 6b
26
Tendonitis Sucks Ravens Tor 2 7a
27
Hammerhead Blues Ravens Tor 6b
1
The Archers Dove Holes 7b
2
The Ball Dove Holes 1 A2
3
Pumping Iron Dove Holes E5 6b
4
Restricted Practices Dove Holes E5 6b
5
The Wicked Dove Holes 1 A2
6
The Bat Dove Holes 3 A1
7
Middle Stump Dove Holes 3 A2
8
Follow the Bear Dove Holes E5 6b
9
Police and Thieves Dove Holes 2 E4 6a
10
The Umpire Dove Holes 1 6c
1
Original Route Ilam Rock HS 4a
2
The Wong Edge Ilam Rock 2 E3 6a
3
The Groove Ilam Rock 1 E2 5c
4
The Gladiator Ilam Rock 3 E4 6a
5
Steve's Route Ilam Rock 2 E6 6c
6
Eye of the Tiger Ilam Rock 3 E7 6c
7
The Final Round Ilam Rock 3 E9 6c
8
The White Edge Ilam Rock 1 E3 6a
9
Easter Island Ilam Rock 2 E2 5c
10
Easter Edge Ilam Rock 2 E1 5b
1
Pickering Ridge Pickering Pinnacle VS 4b
2
What Crisis? Pickering Pinnacle HVS 5a
3
Crisis Pickering Pinnacle E5 6c
4
Daylight Robbery Pickering Pinnacle E1 5b
5
Monsieur Mange Tout Pickering Pinnacle 1 E5 6b
6
The River Pickering Pinnacle E4 6a
7
Pickering's Overhang Pickering Pinnacle 1 E1 5b
8
The Flake Pickering Pinnacle 1 E1 5c
9
Jaguar Smile Pickering Pinnacle E4 6a
10
Chunky Punky Pickering Pinnacle HVS 5a
11
Original Route Pickering Pinnacle S 3c
1
Final Witness Thunderball 1 E2 5b
2
Thunderball Thunderball 1 E1 5b
3
Red Eye Thunderball E1 5b
4
Suspended Sentence Thunderball E5 6b
5
Harold Wilson Thunderball E2 5b
6
Palsy Wall Thunderball HVS 5a
1
Wall of Straws The Watchblock 3 E5 6b
2
Three Piece Combo The Watchblock 1 E4 6a
3
Eyes Wide Shut The Watchblock 2 E8 6c
4
Adjudicator Wall The Watchblock 3 E3 5c
5
Nancy Whisky The Watchblock 1 E1 5b
6
Watchblock Direct The Watchblock HVS 5b
7
Beginner's Luck The Watchblock 1 HS 4a
8
Uncontrollable Urge The Watchblock HVS 5a
1
The Lime Arch Reynard's Arch 3 6b+
2
Jonah's Boner Reynard's Arch 2 7c
3
Arch Rival Reynard's Arch 1 7a
4
Arch Enemies Reynard's Arch 3 7c+
5
Sworn Enemy Reynard's Arch 3 8a
6
Things Ain't Like They Used to Be Reynard's Arch 1 7a+
7
Can You Believe It Reynard's Arch 1 6b
1
Campanile Campanile Pinnacle 1 S 4a
2
Whacko Campanile Pinnacle 2 E4 6a
3
The Man with X-Ray Eyes Campanile Pinnacle E2 5b
1
A Secret State Silicon Wall 1 E3 5c
2
Under Pressure Silicon Wall HVS 5b
3
Silicon Silicon Wall 2 HS 4b
4
Manna Machine Silicon Wall 1 VS 4c
5
Don van Vliet Silicon Wall E1 5c
1
Rose Bowl Ten Craters of Wisdom 1 HVS 5b
2
Ten Craters of Wisdom Ten Craters of Wisdom 3 VS 5a
3
Simeon Ten Craters of Wisdom 1 VS 4c
4
Simeon Direct Ten Craters of Wisdom 2 HVS 5a
5
Archibald the Grim Ten Craters of Wisdom 1 E2 5c
1
Mandarin John Peel Wall E1 5a
2
Brutus John Peel Wall 2 E1 5b
3
There Will Be Blood John Peel Wall 1 8a
4
Caesar John Peel Wall 2 E4 6a
5
Resurrected John Peel Wall 2 7c
6
George John Peel Wall 3 E1 5b
7
Destot's Gap John Peel Wall E5 6c
8
Bye, George John Peel Wall 1 E3 5c
9
John Peel John Peel Wall 3 HVS 5a
10
Black Flip John Peel Wall 1 E4 6a
11
Wild Bill John Peel Wall 1 E2 5c
12
Crazy Horse John Peel Wall E4 6a
13
Yew Tree Wall John Peel Wall 3 E1 5c
14
Geronimo John Peel Wall E3 6a
15
Calamity Jane John Peel Wall E1 5b
16
Orange Peel John Peel Wall 1 E3 6a
1
Zulu Dawn South Gully Buttress 1 E5 6b
2
And the Weather South Gully Buttress E1 5b
3
Dr Livingstone South Gully Buttress VS 4b
4
Stanley Wall South Gully Buttress VS 4c
5
The Mystery Tour South Gully Buttress HS 4b
1
Sold Down the River Dovedale Church E5 6b
2
Unwholly Ceremony Dovedale Church 7c
3
Pussyfoot Dovedale Church VD
4
Unknown Crack Dovedale Church VS 4c
5
Bob Can't Cope Dovedale Church E3 5b
6
Bob Hope Dovedale Church E2 5b
7
Meeting Across the River Dovedale Church 2 E4 6a
8
American Style Dovedale Church 1 E4 6b
9
Bolt it and Believe it Dovedale Church 1 7c
10
Crypt Route Dovedale Church 1 S 4a
11
No Turning Back Dovedale Church 1 E5 6b
12
French Technique Dovedale Church 1 7a
13
Tales of the Riverbank Dovedale Church 3 E5 6a
14
Pogles' Wood Dovedale Church E4 6a
15
The Rattler Dovedale Church 1 HVS 5b
16
Horner Dovedale Church HS 4c
17
Anaconda Dovedale Church 2 E1 5b
18
Phil's Route Dovedale Church 3 E2 5c
19
Jungle Land Dovedale Church 3 E5 6b
20
Amazona Dovedale Church 3 E6 6c
21
Wild Country Dovedale Church E5 6c
22
Snakes Alive Dovedale Church 3 VS 4c
23
Judge Jeffries Dovedale Church HVS 5c
24
Blue Sister Dovedale Church 1 E4 6a
25
Quiet Life Dovedale Church 2 E3 6a
26
Cryptic Crack Dovedale Church VD

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