West of the ancient town of Sax is a series of limestone towers overlooking the wide valley of the Vinalopo. The crags here have been known as Sax and Cabreras over the years and to confuse things even further it is also occasionally referred to by the name of the central showpiece tower known as Peñas del Rey. Most of the climbing is slabby, with the occasional bulging bit, and the grades range from quality fours and fives to technical sixes and a couple of top-notch sevens. Many of the pitches are long and there are some excellent two-pitch climbs here. Sax has been climbed on for many years, and consequently some of the routes are now polished. Away to the south west is Sector Cumbre which has long wall pitches mainly in the 6a to 6b+ range. Sadly this crag is bird-banned from December to June, has a long and steep approach walk and has never been popular. It is not covered in this book.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Sombra del pájaro | Pinnacle and North | 6a+ | |
2 |
Carrozas Climb | Pinnacle and North | 7b | |
3 |
Aspirante carroza | Pinnacle and North | 1 | 6a |
4 |
Marco Antonio | Pinnacle and North | 5a | |
5 |
Moreno | Pinnacle and North | 6a+ | |
6 |
Super miembro | Pinnacle and North | 6c+ | |
1 |
Moreno machacón | Sector Cumbre | 7b+ | |
2 |
Rompe bragas | Sector Cumbre | 6a+ | |
3 |
Polla asesina | Sector Cumbre | 6c | |
4 |
Homicidio frustrado | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6c+ |
5 |
Asesinato premeditado | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6b+ |
6 |
Ingreso cadáver | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6b+ |
7 |
Pincha pansida | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6a |
8 |
Gorilero | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6a |
9 |
Tauro | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6a |
10 |
Tubular Bells | Sector Cumbre | 2 | 6b+ |
11 |
Zombis | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6b |
12 |
Fiesta salvaje | Sector Cumbre | 2 | 6b+ |
13 |
Busque y compare | Sector Cumbre | 2 | 6a+ |
14 |
De película | Sector Cumbre | 2 | 6b+ |
15 |
Toreros muertos | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6b+ |
16 |
Demonio con faldas | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 7a |
17 |
Lucecitas de colores | Sector Cumbre | 2 | 6a+ |
18 |
Jabato con pie de gato | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6a+ |
19 |
Gringo | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6a+ |
20 |
Civera | Sector Cumbre | 2 | 5c |
21 |
Sensaciones azuladas | Sector Cumbre | 1 | 6a+ |
1 |
Alnara | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 6a+ |
2 |
Doce metros por hora | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 6b |
3 |
Blanes | Peñas del Rey | 3 | 4c |
4 |
La última pupilla | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6c |
5 |
Caballo Loco | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6c |
6 |
Taberna de Buda | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6a+ |
7 |
Anduriña | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6a |
8 |
Kabronkon | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6b |
9 |
Pedra del Sol | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6b |
10 |
Liga Humana | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6a+ |
11 |
Tupungato | Peñas del Rey | 3 | 5c |
12 |
Muerte Sabrosa | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6b |
13 |
Amor Brujo | Peñas del Rey | 3 | 6a+ |
14 |
Super Directa | Peñas del Rey | 3 | 6a |
15 |
Directísima | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6a |
16 |
La Moixeranga | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6b |
17 |
Central | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 5c |
18 |
Límites de la Realidad | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6a |
19 |
Diedro Dinamita | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 6a |
20 |
Polvos mágicos | Peñas del Rey | 3 | 6a |
21 |
Esto es Hollywood | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 6b |
22 |
Navarro 1 | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 6a |
23 |
Navarro 1 Variante | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 6b |
24 |
Chimenea Groen 70 | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 5c |
25 |
Quirófano de la muerte | Peñas del Rey | 3 | 7a+ |
26 |
Elena de Pablos | Peñas del Rey | 3 | 7a+ |
27 |
Chinche | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 6b |
28 |
Espolón Luis Rico | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 6a |
29 |
Glóbulos rojos | Peñas del Rey | 6c | |
30 |
Retri | Peñas del Rey | 6b | |
31 |
QE2 | Peñas del Rey | 6a | |
32 |
Techo | Peñas del Rey | 7b | |
33 |
Con cuarto basta | Peñas del Rey | 6a+ | |
34 |
Carrasco | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 5a |
35 |
Andrés | Peñas del Rey | 1 | 5c |
36 |
Elisa-Beltrán | Peñas del Rey | 2 | 4a |
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