A remote and varied crag with some magnificent climbing on either side of a dinosaur-back fin of rock. Pride of place has to be Sector Super Heroes; a steep shady wall of soaring, overhanging walls and pocket-lines and a must for people into steep grade 7s and 8s. The rest of the shady north-facing side is less imposing but still offers some quality challenges in the mid-grades. For easier stuff you need to head round to the slabby southern side; a totally different proposition with routes at a much friendlier angle and in a beautiful sunny setting, with magnificent views. The majority of the climbs are well bolted. A 70m rope is useful for Sectors Super Heroes and Elecciones.ApproachTake the A-31 towards Madrid as far as the junction to 'Petrer, Elda, centro commercial' - large Carrefour supermarket. At this slightly complex junction on the slip road, turn back right following signs for 'Xorret de Cati' - a rather fine hotel up in the mountains. Follow the road and signs for around 10km to an unsigned junction on the right where there is a clear view of the crag over to the south. Turn down here (still surfaced) to a right turn onto an unsurfaced road by a small stone gate post. (This track can be very hard going after rain). Follow the track to a sharp turn left where there is parking for a chapel, hidden in the trees up ahead. Continue to car parking at a col from where the crag is clearly visible. To get to the North Face and Villanos, the easiest way is to take the footpath branching right off the main approach track at the car park (marked by a Xorret del Cati "climbing this way" sign). This can be followed past Sector Villanos to a flat open area where the path splits. To get to the South Face, continue on the main track as it drops down underneath the fin. See buttresses for approach from here.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Cabrales | Sector Villanos | 6a+ | |
2 |
Jalapeños | Sector Villanos | 6c+ | |
3 |
Joker | Sector Villanos | 1 | 7a+ |
4 |
Pancho Villa | Sector Villanos | 7a+ | |
5 |
Doctor No | Sector Villanos | 1 | 7a |
6 |
Lutor | Sector Villanos | 6c+ | |
7 |
Esquelotor | Sector Villanos | 1 | 6c+ |
8 |
Phantomas | Sector Villanos | 7a+ | |
9 |
Barrabás | Sector Villanos | 1 | 6c |
1 |
Aquí Estoy | Sector Parking | 6a | |
2 |
Sin Piedad | Sector Parking | 6a+ | |
1 |
El Pequeño Frankenstein | Sector Comic | 6c | |
2 |
Mundo Mutante | Sector Comic | 2 | 6c+ |
3 |
Pedrusco | Sector Comic | 2 | 6b+ |
4 |
Litel Pony Manconi | Sector Comic | 1 | 6c+ |
5 |
Sara | Sector Comic | 2 | 6c |
6 |
Torpedo | Sector Comic | 1 | 6b+ |
7 |
El Mercenario | Sector Comic | 1 | 6c+ |
8 |
El Legionario | Sector Comic | 1 | 6c |
9 |
Cómic | Sector Comic | 1 | 5c |
10 |
La Danza El Cul | Sector Comic | 1 | 5a |
11 |
Sin Chan | Sector Comic | 1 | 5a |
12 |
Patxi Cena Arroz | Sector Comic | 1 | 6b+ |
1 |
L'Estaca | Sector Pajaritos | 6a+ | |
2 |
Una Cerveza en el Túnel | Sector Pajaritos | 1 | 6a+ |
3 |
Gorrión | Sector Pajaritos | 1 | 6a+ |
4 |
Picacerebros | Sector Pajaritos | 1 | 6a |
5 |
Golondrinas | Sector Pajaritos | 1 | 6a+ |
6 |
Radio Macuto | Sector Pajaritos | 1 | 7a+ |
7 |
Cucú | Sector Pajaritos | 1 | 6a+ |
8 |
El alimaña | Sector Pajaritos | 1 | 6b+ |
9 |
Periquito | Sector Pajaritos | 5a | |
1 |
Pajarraco Half | Sector Super Heroes | 1 | 6c |
2 |
Pajarraco | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7c |
3 |
Excalibur | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 8a+ |
4 |
Tundra | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 8a+ |
5 |
Lanzarote o burro grande | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 8a+ |
6 |
Batman | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7b+ |
7 |
Muscleman | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7b |
8 |
Satori | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 8b |
9 |
Rock'n Roll Exprés | Sector Super Heroes | 1 | 8a |
10 |
Jo-ta-ke | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 8b+ |
11 |
Radicales libres | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 8a+ |
12 |
Thor | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7b+ |
13 |
Thorpedo | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 7b |
14 |
Plasticman | Sector Super Heroes | 1 | 8a+ |
15 |
Doctor Bacterio | Sector Super Heroes | 1 | 7c+ |
16 |
Bacterio | Sector Super Heroes | Proj | |
17 |
Elios | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7a+ |
18 |
Guerrero del antifaz | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7b+ |
19 |
Enclenque Misantrópic | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 7c |
20 |
Helioscentrisimo | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 7c+ |
21 |
Spiderman | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7a |
22 |
Starman | Sector Super Heroes | 3 | 7a |
23 |
Son Goku | Sector Super Heroes | 1 | 7a |
24 |
Espolón Rumano | Sector Super Heroes | 1 | 7c |
25 |
A King Kong Jalameel Cous Cous | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 7b |
26 |
Superlópez | Sector Super Heroes | 2 | 7b+ |
1 |
Baby boom | Sector Elecciones | 3 | 8b |
2 |
Bombe bombero | Sector Elecciones | 2 | 8a+ |
3 |
Apatrida | Sector Elecciones | 2 | 7b+ |
4 |
Los patos de la Moncloa | Sector Elecciones | 2 | 7b+ |
5 |
Cámara Alta | Sector Elecciones | 2 | 6c+ |
6 |
Kuka | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 7b+ |
7 |
Ratonovich | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 6c+ |
8 |
Disturbio vertical | Sector Elecciones | 3 | 6c |
9 |
El golfo de la guerra | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 6b+ |
10 |
El hereje | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 7c |
11 |
La guerra del golfo | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 6b+ |
12 |
La guerra del golfo Extension | Sector Elecciones | Proj | |
13 |
Noelix i Obelix | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 6b+ |
14 |
Abstención | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 6c |
15 |
La fuerza del parábola | Sector Elecciones | 1 | 6a |
16 |
Eliconnes Fifteen | Sector Elecciones | 3 | Proj |
17 |
Pepe Rota | Sector Elecciones | 2 | 7b+ |
18 |
Galimatías | Sector Elecciones | 3 | 6c+ |
19 |
Pictolin | Sector Elecciones | 6a | |
20 |
Sugus | Sector Elecciones | 6a+ | |
1 |
Bola de Cristal | Sector Television | 7a | |
2 |
Rollito de Primavera | Sector Television | 8a | |
3 |
La calle de ritmo | Sector Television | 1 | 6c+ |
4 |
Waku-Waku | Sector Television | 1 | 6c |
5 |
Sesión de tarde | Sector Television | 1 | 6c |
6 |
Toñaretoña | Sector Television | 7b+ | |
7 |
Papapatras | Sector Television | 7c+ | |
8 |
El último mohicano | Sector Television | 7c | |
9 |
Quieres que el tigre | Sector Television | 2 | 7b+ |
10 |
Bum-Bum | Sector Television | 2 | 7a+ |
11 |
Tiger Mountain | Sector Television | 2 | 7b |
12 |
Recién venido | Sector Television | 6b+ | |
13 |
El precio justo | Sector Television | 1 | 7a |
14 |
Carta de adujiste | Sector Television | 1 | 7a |
1 |
Carne de psiquatrico | Sector Psiquiatrico | 1 | 7a |
2 |
Bloqueo mental | Sector Psiquiatrico | 1 | 7b |
1 |
Termomix | Sector Minipimer | 1 | 7b |
2 |
Picadora Mulinex | Sector Minipimer | 1 | 7a+ |
3 |
Minipimer | Sector Minipimer | 1 | 7a+ |
1 |
Tres cerditos | Sector Cuentos Populares | 1 | 6c |
2 |
Cuentos populares | Sector Cuentos Populares | 1 | 7a |
3 |
Dumbo | Sector Cuentos Populares | 7a+ | |
4 |
Pinocho | Sector Cuentos Populares | 6b+ | |
5 |
Juan Sin Miedo | Sector Cuentos Populares | 7a | |
6 |
Las botas de 7 leguas | Sector Cuentos Populares | 1 | 6c+ |
7 |
Chiquitín | Sector Cuentos Populares | 6b+ | |
1 |
Laguna Estigia | Sector Mitològic | 1 | 7a |
2 |
Unicornio | Sector Mitològic | 1 | 6c |
3 |
Eolo | Sector Mitològic | 1 | 6b+ |
4 |
Odisea | Sector Mitològic | 1 | 6c |
5 |
Odisea Direct | Sector Mitològic | 6c | |
6 |
Iberia | Sector Mitològic | 6b+ | |
1 |
Petorri | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 3c | |
2 |
Bon día | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 5a |
3 |
Cursilanía | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 4a |
4 |
Como te dé la Gana | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 4a | |
5 |
Fam de gos | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 2 | 5c |
6 |
Pilar | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 2 | 5a |
7 |
Noche golfa | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 6a |
8 |
Paula | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 5c |
9 |
Tiburón | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 5c |
10 |
Plácido Domingo | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 2 | 6a |
11 |
Jodido Lunes | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 6a |
12 |
De los cuatro | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 4a |
13 |
De Joan | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 3a | |
14 |
Caballería | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 4c |
15 |
Marisol | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 6a |
16 |
Freire sin aceite | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 2 | 6a+ |
17 |
Entrepiernas | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 6b |
18 |
Mujer furtiva | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 6a+ |
19 |
Las escaletas fuman petas | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 5c |
20 |
Chimo | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 6a |
21 |
Chumi | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 6a | |
22 |
Cosme | Sectors Petorri and Descote | 1 | 5c |
1 |
Fret fa | Sector Forat | 1 | 6b |
2 |
La Golondrina | Sector Forat | 1 | 6a+ |
3 |
Mama Ukri | Sector Forat | 2 | 6b |
4 |
Chorro sin agua | Sector Forat | 2 | 6a |
5 |
Sube que es gratis | Sector Forat | 1 | 6a+ |
6 |
Héctor | Sector Forat | 2 | 7b |
7 |
Del Forat | Sector Forat | 1 | 5c |
8 |
L'Hivernacle | Sector Forat | 2 | 7a |
9 |
Javier Muñoz | Sector Forat | 1 | 6a+ |
10 |
Cruz del sur | Sector Forat | 1 | 7a |
11 |
La Plutga | Sector Forat | 2 | 5c |
12 |
Extrema Eskerra | Sector Forat | 1 | 6b |
1 |
L'Embolic | Sector Goteta | 1 | 6a+ |
2 |
Trinity | Sector Goteta | 7a+ | |
3 |
Mayaya | Sector Goteta | 1 | 5c |
4 |
Llei dels Maleans | Sector Goteta | 1 | 6a |
5 |
McFly | Sector Goteta | 2 | 5c |
6 |
Panchuflas | Sector Goteta | 2 | 5c |
7 |
Corpus Cristina | Sector Goteta | 2 | 5c |
8 |
Ligero de Equipaje | Sector Goteta | 5c |
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