Leyva

A long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and Calp, lurks Leyva, a major venue that is well worth a visit. It is a magnificent cliff of international significance with 60 major routes; the main face being a 150 metre high, south-facing wall of great rock. The early routes here were done in traditional style originally but all the best climbs are now fully bolted. All that is required for these is fifteen quickdraws and double ropes for the abseil descent. If you prefer to travel even lighter, and just use a single rope, it is possible to walk off the right-hand side of the cliff. Down and right of the main cliff there are two smaller crags with a good selection of single pitch sport climbs across a range of difficulty, the Sectors de la Cueva and Pecera.
Leyva is a long day's outing from the Calp area and a good option is to consider stopping over in the area for a couple of days. There is a pleasant campsite (plus cabins) at El Berro; this is quite close to the cliff and it has the basics, including a bar and cabins. Prices are very reasonable (tent and 2 people for under EUR10 a night) check out www.campingsierraespuna.com


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