As you drive up and down the coast there is one impressive bit of rock which stands high above all the other impressive bits of rock; the 1406m high Puig Campana behind the small town of Finestrat. Along with the Peñón de Ifach, this mountain has been a focus of climbing in the Costa Blanca since the 1960s. Owing to the long approach walks, and the existence of other, significantly more accessible crags, the Puig Campana hasn't been developed nearly as much as it deserves. Despite this, it is still home to some superb and important routes, which will provide many memorable days of climbing for those into long, traditionally protected climbs. The actual climbing is seldom hard, except on the newer routes. The three main classics on the south face, Espolón Central, Diedro Gallego and Diedro Magicos, along with El Diamante and Espolón Finestrat on the Aguja Encantada, are the only routes on which you are likely to have company. If you enjoy exploring the mountain, the local guide (Escaladas en el Puig Campana by Manolo Pomares) lists 80+ routes on the various faces, enough to keep most people busy for several years.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
La Flecher | Aguja Encantada | 1 | 6a |
2 |
Aorangi | Aguja Encantada | 2 | 6c+ |
3 |
Dancing on Crystals | Aguja Encantada | 1 | 6c |
4 |
Diedro Edwards-Pérez | Aguja Encantada | 1 | 7a |
5 |
Pilar de Finestrat | Aguja Encantada | 2 | 6b+ |
6 |
Collum de Ho | Aguja Encantada | 3 | 7a+ |
7 |
El Diamante | Aguja Encantada | 3 | 6a+ |
8 |
New Generations | Aguja Encantada | 6b+ | |
9 |
Espolón de Finestrat | Aguja Encantada | 2 | 5c |
10 |
Talisman | Aguja Encantada | 6a+ | |
11 |
Flamingo Dancer | Aguja Encantada | 1 | 6a+ |
12 |
Corazón en la Roca | Aguja Encantada | 1 | 7b+ |
1 |
Espolón Central | Espolón Central | 3 | 4c |
2 |
The Quick Start | Espolón Central | 2c | |
3 |
Espolón Central Directa | Espolón Central | 1 | 4c |
4 |
The Edward's Finish | Espolón Central | 1 | 5a |
1 |
Directisima | Vía Julia Pillar | 1 | 6a |
2 |
Nueva Edición | Vía Julia Pillar | 1 | 7a |
3 |
Edge of Time | Vía Julia Pillar | 1 | 6c |
4 |
Vía Julia | Vía Julia Pillar | 2 | 6a |
5 |
Sin Salida | Vía Julia Pillar | 1 | 6a |
6 |
Diedro Gallego | Vía Julia Pillar | 1 | 6a |
7 |
Espolón Edwards | Vía Julia Pillar | 2 | 6c+ |
8 |
Viaje en el tiempo | Vía Julia Pillar | 1 | 6b+ |
1 |
Witches of Voodoo | Diedros Mágicos Area | 2 | 6b+ |
2 |
Spellbound | Diedros Mágicos Area | 2 | 7a |
3 |
Diedros Mágicos | Diedros Mágicos Area | 3 | 6a |
4 |
The Wizard | Diedros Mágicos Area | 2 | 6b |
5 |
Asesina a tu vecina | Diedros Mágicos Area | 1 | 6b+ |
6 |
Rompededos | Diedros Mágicos Area | 2 | 6c |
7 |
Anglada/Cerdá/Gallego | Diedros Mágicos Area | 1 | 5c |
8 |
Tricolomanía | Diedros Mágicos Area | 1 | 6b+ |
9 |
Cleptomanía | Diedros Mágicos Area | 1 | 6b+ |
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