Wildcat

Wildcat has long been a popular crag due to its accessibility, sunny situation and collection of multi-pitch Orange Spot routes. Many of these follow strong lines on decent quality rock that, generally speaking, isn't too steep for limestone but there are no slabs here! The cliff is extensive and there is a lot of poor rock and vegetation scattered along its length. Although much of this has all been climbed on in the past, it is best left to return to nature. Only the better buttresses are described here and these are well worth visiting. Many of the routes start with a slightly grotty first pitch leading to a well-placed stance just above the treetops, about halfway up the face. Above this, the quality cranks up and many routes have excellent upper pitches with spectacular positions high above the woods and river.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Criminally Insane New Bridge Buttress 7a+
2
Trick Psychlist New Bridge Buttress 7c+
3
Straight Psychlist New Bridge Buttress 1 7a+
4
Strait Jacket New Bridge Buttress 2 7a
5
Recoil New Bridge Buttress 1 6b+
6
Shock Treatment New Bridge Buttress 7a
7
Lunatic Asylum New Bridge Buttress HVS 5c
8
The Mentalist New Bridge Buttress 1 7a+
1
Catacomb Direct Coyote Buttress 1 HVS 5a
2
Paws for Thought Coyote Buttress E1 5b
3
Fear Coyote Buttress 1 E3 5b
4
Catastrophe Grooves Coyote Buttress 2 HVS 5a
5
White Room Coyote Buttress 1 HVS 5a
6
Cat Cull Coyote Buttress 1 E1 5c
7
Lyon Route Coyote Buttress 1 E1 5b
8
Coyote Buttress Coyote Buttress 2 HVS 5a
9
Derek's Dilemma Coyote Buttress 1 VS 5a
10
Broken Toe Groove Coyote Buttress 1 VS 4c
11
Jackdaw Grooves Coyote Buttress 2 VS 4b
12
Nine Lives Wall Coyote Buttress 1 HVS 5a
13
Catharsis Wall Coyote Buttress HVS 5a
14
Cat's Eye Coyote Buttress S 4a
15
Budweisser Effect Coyote Buttress HVS 4c
16
Mothra Coyote Buttress E2 5c
17
McPlumb Wall Coyote Buttress 1 HVS 4c
18
Negative 'G' Coyote Buttress E1 5b
19
Cougar Cleft Coyote Buttress HS 4a
20
Tiger Route 1 Coyote Buttress 1 VS 4c
21
Tiger Route 2 Coyote Buttress VS 4c
22
Sourpuss Coyote Buttress 1 VS 4c
23
Ripsnorter Coyote Buttress 1 VS 4b
24
Pupilla Coyote Buttress 1 VS 4c
25
Cat Walk Coyote Buttress 2 HS 4a
1
Manx High Crag 1 VS 4b
2
Blurb High Crag E1 5b
3
Golden Yardstick High Crag 3 VS 5a
4
Lobo High Crag 1 VS 4b
5
Tut's Anomalous High Crag 2 E1 5b
6
Great Cleft High Crag 2 E2 5c
7
Lynx High Crag 3 HS 4b
8
The Catcuss Furballs Connection High Crag 1 E5 6b
9
Clash of Arms High Crag 1 E4 6b
10
Mr Dog High Crag E5 6b
11
Resurrected High Crag 1 7c
12
Stolen Jewel High Crag 1 E5 6b
13
Sphynx High Crag 2 VS 5a
14
Climacteric High Crag 2 VS 5a
15
Octopuss High Crag HVS 5b
16
Cataclysm High Crag 3 HVS 5a
17
Metamorphosis High Crag 1 HVS 5b
18
Timing X High Crag 1 E1 5b
19
End Game High Crag 1 HVS 5a
1
Thrutch Upper Tor VS 4c
2
Schoolboy Scoop Upper Tor VD
3
Trammeltanz Upper Tor E4 6b
4
Liberty Cap Upper Tor 2 E3 5c
5
Waiting for an Alibi Upper Tor E5 6b
6
Great Crack Upper Tor 2 E2 5c
7
Shades of Pineapple Pink Upper Tor E5 6b
8
Sunset Creek Upper Tor 3 E1 5b
9
Terminal Upper Tor E4 6a
10
Return of the Native Upper Tor 1 E4 6a
11
Go Go Grooves Upper Tor 2 HVS 5a

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