Wildcat has long been a popular crag due to its accessibility, sunny situation and collection of multi-pitch Orange Spot routes. Many of these follow strong lines on decent quality rock that, generally speaking, isn't too steep for limestone but there are no slabs here! The cliff is extensive and there is a lot of poor rock and vegetation scattered along its length. Although much of this has all been climbed on in the past, it is best left to return to nature. Only the better buttresses are described here and these are well worth visiting. Many of the routes start with a slightly grotty first pitch leading to a well-placed stance just above the treetops, about halfway up the face. Above this, the quality cranks up and many routes have excellent upper pitches with spectacular positions high above the woods and river.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Criminally Insane | New Bridge Buttress | 7a+ | |
2 |
Trick Psychlist | New Bridge Buttress | 7c+ | |
3 |
Straight Psychlist | New Bridge Buttress | 1 | 7a+ |
4 |
Strait Jacket | New Bridge Buttress | 2 | 7a |
5 |
Recoil | New Bridge Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
6 |
Shock Treatment | New Bridge Buttress | 7a | |
7 |
Lunatic Asylum | New Bridge Buttress | HVS 5c | |
8 |
The Mentalist | New Bridge Buttress | 1 | 7a+ |
1 |
Catacomb Direct | Coyote Buttress | 1 | HVS 5a |
2 |
Paws for Thought | Coyote Buttress | E1 5b | |
3 |
Fear | Coyote Buttress | 1 | E3 5b |
4 |
Catastrophe Grooves | Coyote Buttress | 2 | HVS 5a |
5 |
White Room | Coyote Buttress | 1 | HVS 5a |
6 |
Cat Cull | Coyote Buttress | 1 | E1 5c |
7 |
Lyon Route | Coyote Buttress | 1 | E1 5b |
8 |
Coyote Buttress | Coyote Buttress | 2 | HVS 5a |
9 |
Derek's Dilemma | Coyote Buttress | 1 | VS 5a |
10 |
Broken Toe Groove | Coyote Buttress | 1 | VS 4c |
11 |
Jackdaw Grooves | Coyote Buttress | 2 | VS 4b |
12 |
Nine Lives Wall | Coyote Buttress | 1 | HVS 5a |
13 |
Catharsis Wall | Coyote Buttress | HVS 5a | |
14 |
Cat's Eye | Coyote Buttress | S 4a | |
15 |
Budweisser Effect | Coyote Buttress | HVS 4c | |
16 |
Mothra | Coyote Buttress | E2 5c | |
17 |
McPlumb Wall | Coyote Buttress | 1 | HVS 4c |
18 |
Negative 'G' | Coyote Buttress | E1 5b | |
19 |
Cougar Cleft | Coyote Buttress | HS 4a | |
20 |
Tiger Route 1 | Coyote Buttress | 1 | VS 4c |
21 |
Tiger Route 2 | Coyote Buttress | VS 4c | |
22 |
Sourpuss | Coyote Buttress | 1 | VS 4c |
23 |
Ripsnorter | Coyote Buttress | 1 | VS 4b |
24 |
Pupilla | Coyote Buttress | 1 | VS 4c |
25 |
Cat Walk | Coyote Buttress | 2 | HS 4a |
1 |
Manx | High Crag | 1 | VS 4b |
2 |
Blurb | High Crag | E1 5b | |
3 |
Golden Yardstick | High Crag | 3 | VS 5a |
4 |
Lobo | High Crag | 1 | VS 4b |
5 |
Tut's Anomalous | High Crag | 2 | E1 5b |
6 |
Great Cleft | High Crag | 2 | E2 5c |
7 |
Lynx | High Crag | 3 | HS 4b |
8 |
The Catcuss Furballs Connection | High Crag | 1 | E5 6b |
9 |
Clash of Arms | High Crag | 1 | E4 6b |
10 |
Mr Dog | High Crag | E5 6b | |
11 |
Resurrected | High Crag | 1 | 7c |
12 |
Stolen Jewel | High Crag | 1 | E5 6b |
13 |
Sphynx | High Crag | 2 | VS 5a |
14 |
Climacteric | High Crag | 2 | VS 5a |
15 |
Octopuss | High Crag | HVS 5b | |
16 |
Cataclysm | High Crag | 3 | HVS 5a |
17 |
Metamorphosis | High Crag | 1 | HVS 5b |
18 |
Timing X | High Crag | 1 | E1 5b |
19 |
End Game | High Crag | 1 | HVS 5a |
1 |
Thrutch | Upper Tor | VS 4c | |
2 |
Schoolboy Scoop | Upper Tor | VD | |
3 |
Trammeltanz | Upper Tor | E4 6b | |
4 |
Liberty Cap | Upper Tor | 2 | E3 5c |
5 |
Waiting for an Alibi | Upper Tor | E5 6b | |
6 |
Great Crack | Upper Tor | 2 | E2 5c |
7 |
Shades of Pineapple Pink | Upper Tor | E5 6b | |
8 |
Sunset Creek | Upper Tor | 3 | E1 5b |
9 |
Terminal | Upper Tor | E4 6a | |
10 |
Return of the Native | Upper Tor | 1 | E4 6a |
11 |
Go Go Grooves | Upper Tor | 2 | HVS 5a |
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