Kilnsey

The unmistakable leaning bulk of Kilnsey Crag is one of the UK's major limestone cliffs. Its soaring grooves, leaning walls and undercut starts providing the ingredients for a set of superlative high end sport climbs and challenging trad routes. Much of the sport climbing is stamina based due to the height of the cliff, whilst the majority of the quality trad climbs are sustained, fairly adventurous and tackle many of Kilnsey's stunning natural lines. All of the best routes are in the higher grades and, for the most part, are on good rock although some sections need care. The sport routes are well equipped and get plenty of traffic whilst the less popular trad climbs see far less attention and can be a bit dirty and may need a clean before an ascent.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Elderberry Orchard South Buttress 3a
2
Round the Mulberry Bush South Buttress 3a
3
Orion's Belt South Buttress 3a
4
Right-hand Route South Buttress 3a
5
Andrex South Buttress 5c
6
Alternative South Buttress 5a
1
Peepshow Directissima Area 1 6b+
2
Sidekick Directissima Area 1 7a+
3
Sideshow Directissima Area 1 7b
4
Sideline Directissima Area 1 7b
5
True South Directissima Area 1 7c
6
The Pirate Directissima Area 3 8c
7
Metal Mickey Directissima Area 1 8b
8
Metal Guru Directissima Area 2 7c
9
Last Action Hero Directissima Area 3 8a+
10
Man With a Gun Directissima Area 2 7c+
11
Bullet Directissima Area 1 8a+
12
Cold Steal Directissima Area 3 8a
13
Stolen Directissima Area 3 8b
14
Steal the Show Directissima Area 3 8b
15
Showtime Directissima Area 3 8b
16
Hardy Annual Directissima Area 1 7b
17
Epic Adventures Directissima Area 1 8c
18
Preposterous Tales Directissima Area 3 9a
19
Freakshow Directissima Area 3 8c
20
Make It or Break It Directissima Area 1 7c
21
The Superdirectissima Directissima Area 2 E5 6b
22
Jump Leads Directissima Area 1 E6 6b
23
Jump Leads into Wise Blood Directissima Area E6 6b
24
Wise Blood Directissima Area 3 E6 6b
25
Diminishing Returns Directissima Area 1 7c
26
Visitation Directissima Area 2 7b
27
Vizzy Vu Directissima Area 3 7b
28
Deja Vu Directissima Area 3 E5 6b
29
Premonition Directissima Area 3 8b+
30
Another Vu Point Directissima Area 3 7b
31
Trivial Pursuits Directissima Area 1 E5 6b
32
Full Value Directissima Area 2 E5 6b
33
Face Value Directissima Area 2 E5 6a
34
Guns in the Sky Directissima Area 3 8b+
35
The Directissima Directissima Area 3 6c
36
Mandela Directissima Area 3 8a+
37
Next Direct Directissima Area 7b+
38
Aboriginal Sin Directissima Area 1 8a
39
Dreamtime Directissima Area 3 7c+
40
Wet Dream Directissima Area 2 7c+
41
Airstrike Directissima Area 3 8a
42
Showstopper Directissima Area 2 8a+
43
LBW Directissima Area 1 7b+
44
Sticky Wicket Directissima Area 1 7b+
45
Indian Summer Directissima Area 3 8b+
46
The Ashes Directissima Area 3 7c+
47
50 for 5 Directissima Area 1 7c
48
All Out Directissima Area 3 8c
49
Original Route Directissima Area 2 E3 6a
50
Stumped Directissima Area 7a+
51
Detox Directissima Area 1 7b+
52
De-Stumped Directissima Area 1 7b+
53
Contraflow Directissima Area 1 E5 6b
54
The Big C Directissima Area 1 E4 5c
1
Limerace The Bulge Area E6 6c
2
Captain Tripps The Bulge Area 2 E4 5c
3
Taking the Mick The Bulge Area 2 7a+
4
Comedy The Bulge Area 3 7c
5
Pantomime The Bulge Area 3 7c
6
Cabaret The Bulge Area 3 8a
7
Birdmen The Bulge Area 2 E5 6b
8
Rubble The Bulge Area 1 7c
9
Jenga The Bulge Area 2 8b+
10
Nerve Ending The Bulge Area 1 7b
11
Ecstasy The Bulge Area 3 8b
12
The Bulgelette The Bulge Area 1 6b+
13
The Bulge The Bulge Area 3 8a
14
Tragedy The Bulge Area 2 7c+
15
Travesty The Bulge Area 1 7c+
16
Ground Effect The Bulge Area 2 7b
17
I Ain't No Sponsored Hero The Bulge Area 2 7c+
18
I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean The Bulge Area 8a+
19
The Truth Drug The Bulge Area 1 7b+
20
Dodger Direct The Bulge Area 2 E3 5c
21
Are't Full The Bulge Area E4 6a
22
Floccinaucinihilipilificatious The Bulge Area 1 7b
1
The Organ Grinder Dihedral Wall Area E5 6a
2
Witches Brew Dihedral Wall Area 2 7b
3
Frankie Comes to Kilnsey Dihedral Wall Area 3 7b+
4
Balas Dihedral Wall Area 3 E5 6b
5
Sabbath's Theatre Dihedral Wall Area 2 7c
6
The Puppeteer Dihedral Wall Area 2 8a
7
Drenka Dihedral Wall Area 3 8a+
8
Dark Stranger Dihedral Wall Area 2 8a
9
Relax Dihedral Wall Area 3 E7 6b
10
Brexit Crisis Dihedral Wall Area 2 7c+
11
China Crisis Dihedral Wall Area 2 7c+
12
Alumni Dihedral Wall Area 2 8a
13
The Great Dihedral Wall Extravaganza Dihedral Wall Area 2 7c
14
Mr. Nice Dihedral Wall Area 2 7c+
15
The Jekyll Dihedral Wall Area 2 7c+
16
Dihedral Wall Dihedral Wall Area 1 E5 6b
17
Open Road Dihedral Wall Area 2 7a
18
Silk Road Dihedral Wall Area 1 7b
19
Highway 395 Dihedral Wall Area 2 7a
20
Arch Rival Dihedral Wall Area 1 7a
21
Achilles Heel Dihedral Wall Area 1 6c+
22
Architrave Dihedral Wall Area 1 E4 5c
1
New Mystique Optional Extra Area 2 6b+
2
Fatoliti's Cat Optional Extra Area 6c
3
Conglom Arete Optional Extra Area 1 7a
4
Allakazam Optional Extra Area 2 6c
5
Quiet Flight Direct Optional Extra Area 2 7a+
6
Air Rage Optional Extra Area 1 7c+
7
Abracadavera Optional Extra Area 1 E3 5c
8
Perverted Geranium Optional Extra Area 2 E4 6b
9
Waiting for the Sun Optional Extra Area 1 E5 6b
10
Give Me Convenience Optional Extra Area 7c
11
No More Jumping to Conclusions Optional Extra Area 2 7c
12
Jumpin' and Squeakin' Optional Extra Area 1 E6 6b
13
First Impressions Optional Extra Area 1 7c
14
The Alternative Extra Option Optional Extra Area 2 7a+
15
Optional Extra Optional Extra Area E5 6b
16
Fit As Optional Extra Area 2 E5 6a
17
Butcher's Dog Optional Extra Area 2 E4 6a
1
Bird's Nest Crack Biological Need Area E1 5b
2
Another Clip in the Wall Biological Need Area 7a+
3
Picnic on Hanging Rock Biological Need Area 2 E5 6b
4
Exponential Exhaustion Biological Need Area 3 E7 6b
5
Mantissa Biological Need Area 1 E6 6b
6
Biological Need Biological Need Area 3 7c
7
The Yorkshire Ripper Biological Need Area 3 8b
8
Zero Option Biological Need Area 2 7c+
9
Soft Option Biological Need Area 3 8a
10
Massala Martyr Biological Need Area 1 8b
11
A Smarter Martyr Biological Need Area 8b
12
Mistaken Identity Biological Need Area E5 7a
13
Warlord Biological Need Area E2 5c
14
Exodus Biological Need Area E7 6c
1
A May's In Power Central Wall 2 7c
2
Peripathetic Central Wall 1 E5 6b
3
Central Wall Central Wall 3 E4 6a
4
White Rushin' Central Wall 3 E6 6c
5
High Octane Central Wall 2 E6 6b
6
White Feather Central Wall 1 E5 6b
7
Claws Central Wall 3 E5 6a
8
The Diedre Central Wall 3 E2 5b
9
System of a Down Central Wall 2 E4 6b
10
Worlds in Collision Central Wall 2 E4 5c
11
Ken Central Wall E5 6a
12
Ice Spurt Special Central Wall 1 E6 6b
13
Division of Labour Central Wall 2 E6 6c
1
Friends in High Places The North Buttress 2 E4 5c
2
Dominatrix The North Buttress 3 7c
3
Exit to Eden The North Buttress 2 7c+
4
Drag Queen The North Buttress 2 7c+
5
Northern Exposure The North Buttress 8b+
6
North Star The North Buttress 3 9a
7
Progress The North Buttress 3 8c+
8
Northern Lights The North Buttress 9a
9
Full Tilt The North Buttress 1 8b
10
Magnetic North The North Buttress 3 8c+
11
True North The North Buttress 3 8c
12
Full On Action The North Buttress 1 8b+
13
Urgent Action The North Buttress 3 8a+
14
The Vanilla Path The North Buttress 2 8a+
15
The Thumb The North Buttress 3 8a
16
They Brush Me The North Buttress 1 8a+
17
WYSIWYG The North Buttress 2 7b+
18
Complete Control The North Buttress 2 8a
19
Over The Thumb The North Buttress 3 8a
20
The Perfect Storm The North Buttress 2 7c+
21
Dead Calm The North Buttress 3 7c+
22
Nisus The North Buttress 2 E6 6b
23
Crank Stroke Groove The North Buttress 1 E5 6b
24
The Overlap The North Buttress 3 E5 6b
1
Rictus Subculture Area 1 7b
2
The Last Gasp Finish Subculture Area 2 7b
3
Dr Crimp Subculture Area 3 8b+
4
Suigeneris Subculture Area 7c
5
Slab Culture Subculture Area 2 7b+
6
Subculture Subculture Area 2 8a
7
Myra Hindley Subculture Area 2 7c+
8
Le Lapin et le Pigeon Subculture Area 2 8a
9
Little Ernie Subculture Area 2 7c
10
Little Ernie Direct Start Subculture Area 2 7c+
11
Private Practice Subculture Area 1 8a+
12
Grooved Arete Subculture Area 3 8b
13
Dalliance Subculture Area 3 8b+
14
La Connection Subculture Area 3 8b
15
La False Connection Subculture Area 3 8b
16
The Quick Fixe Subculture Area 3 8b
17
More Rhubarb Faster Subculture Area 2 7c+
18
Brief Encounter Subculture Area 1 8b
19
Smooth Torquer Subculture Area 1 7a+
20
Fit of Peak Subculture Area 1 7c
21
Downright Theft Subculture Area E3 6a
22
Prying Eyes Subculture Area E1 5b

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