The unmistakable leaning bulk of Kilnsey Crag is one of the UK's major limestone cliffs. Its soaring grooves, leaning walls and undercut starts providing the ingredients for a set of superlative high end sport climbs and challenging trad routes. Much of the sport climbing is stamina based due to the height of the cliff, whilst the majority of the quality trad climbs are sustained, fairly adventurous and tackle many of Kilnsey's stunning natural lines. All of the best routes are in the higher grades and, for the most part, are on good rock although some sections need care. The sport routes are well equipped and get plenty of traffic whilst the less popular trad climbs see far less attention and can be a bit dirty and may need a clean before an ascent.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Elderberry Orchard | South Buttress | 3a | |
2 |
Round the Mulberry Bush | South Buttress | 3a | |
3 |
Orion's Belt | South Buttress | 3a | |
4 |
Right-hand Route | South Buttress | 3a | |
5 |
Andrex | South Buttress | 5c | |
6 |
Alternative | South Buttress | 5a | |
1 |
Peepshow | Directissima Area | 1 | 6b+ |
2 |
Sidekick | Directissima Area | 1 | 7a+ |
3 |
Sideshow | Directissima Area | 1 | 7b |
4 |
Sideline | Directissima Area | 1 | 7b |
5 |
True South | Directissima Area | 1 | 7c |
6 |
The Pirate | Directissima Area | 3 | 8c |
7 |
Metal Mickey | Directissima Area | 1 | 8b |
8 |
Metal Guru | Directissima Area | 2 | 7c |
9 |
Last Action Hero | Directissima Area | 3 | 8a+ |
10 |
Man With a Gun | Directissima Area | 2 | 7c+ |
11 |
Bullet | Directissima Area | 1 | 8a+ |
12 |
Cold Steal | Directissima Area | 3 | 8a |
13 |
Stolen | Directissima Area | 3 | 8b |
14 |
Steal the Show | Directissima Area | 3 | 8b |
15 |
Showtime | Directissima Area | 3 | 8b |
16 |
Hardy Annual | Directissima Area | 1 | 7b |
17 |
Epic Adventures | Directissima Area | 1 | 8c |
18 |
Preposterous Tales | Directissima Area | 3 | 9a |
19 |
Freakshow | Directissima Area | 3 | 8c |
20 |
Make It or Break It | Directissima Area | 1 | 7c |
21 |
The Superdirectissima | Directissima Area | 2 | E5 6b |
22 |
Jump Leads | Directissima Area | 1 | E6 6b |
23 |
Jump Leads into Wise Blood | Directissima Area | E6 6b | |
24 |
Wise Blood | Directissima Area | 3 | E6 6b |
25 |
Diminishing Returns | Directissima Area | 1 | 7c |
26 |
Visitation | Directissima Area | 2 | 7b |
27 |
Vizzy Vu | Directissima Area | 3 | 7b |
28 |
Deja Vu | Directissima Area | 3 | E5 6b |
29 |
Premonition | Directissima Area | 3 | 8b+ |
30 |
Another Vu Point | Directissima Area | 3 | 7b |
31 |
Trivial Pursuits | Directissima Area | 1 | E5 6b |
32 |
Full Value | Directissima Area | 2 | E5 6b |
33 |
Face Value | Directissima Area | 2 | E5 6a |
34 |
Guns in the Sky | Directissima Area | 3 | 8b+ |
35 |
The Directissima | Directissima Area | 3 | 6c |
36 |
Mandela | Directissima Area | 3 | 8a+ |
37 |
Next Direct | Directissima Area | 7b+ | |
38 |
Aboriginal Sin | Directissima Area | 1 | 8a |
39 |
Dreamtime | Directissima Area | 3 | 7c+ |
40 |
Wet Dream | Directissima Area | 2 | 7c+ |
41 |
Airstrike | Directissima Area | 3 | 8a |
42 |
Showstopper | Directissima Area | 2 | 8a+ |
43 |
LBW | Directissima Area | 1 | 7b+ |
44 |
Sticky Wicket | Directissima Area | 1 | 7b+ |
45 |
Indian Summer | Directissima Area | 3 | 8b+ |
46 |
The Ashes | Directissima Area | 3 | 7c+ |
47 |
50 for 5 | Directissima Area | 1 | 7c |
48 |
All Out | Directissima Area | 3 | 8c |
49 |
Original Route | Directissima Area | 2 | E3 6a |
50 |
Stumped | Directissima Area | 7a+ | |
51 |
Detox | Directissima Area | 1 | 7b+ |
52 |
De-Stumped | Directissima Area | 1 | 7b+ |
53 |
Contraflow | Directissima Area | 1 | E5 6b |
54 |
The Big C | Directissima Area | 1 | E4 5c |
1 |
Limerace | The Bulge Area | E6 6c | |
2 |
Captain Tripps | The Bulge Area | 2 | E4 5c |
3 |
Taking the Mick | The Bulge Area | 2 | 7a+ |
4 |
Comedy | The Bulge Area | 3 | 7c |
5 |
Pantomime | The Bulge Area | 3 | 7c |
6 |
Cabaret | The Bulge Area | 3 | 8a |
7 |
Birdmen | The Bulge Area | 2 | E5 6b |
8 |
Rubble | The Bulge Area | 1 | 7c |
9 |
Jenga | The Bulge Area | 2 | 8b+ |
10 |
Nerve Ending | The Bulge Area | 1 | 7b |
11 |
Ecstasy | The Bulge Area | 3 | 8b |
12 |
The Bulgelette | The Bulge Area | 1 | 6b+ |
13 |
The Bulge | The Bulge Area | 3 | 8a |
14 |
Tragedy | The Bulge Area | 2 | 7c+ |
15 |
Travesty | The Bulge Area | 1 | 7c+ |
16 |
Ground Effect | The Bulge Area | 2 | 7b |
17 |
I Ain't No Sponsored Hero | The Bulge Area | 2 | 7c+ |
18 |
I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean | The Bulge Area | 8a+ | |
19 |
The Truth Drug | The Bulge Area | 1 | 7b+ |
20 |
Dodger Direct | The Bulge Area | 2 | E3 5c |
21 |
Are't Full | The Bulge Area | E4 6a | |
22 |
Floccinaucinihilipilificatious | The Bulge Area | 1 | 7b |
1 |
The Organ Grinder | Dihedral Wall Area | E5 6a | |
2 |
Witches Brew | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7b |
3 |
Frankie Comes to Kilnsey | Dihedral Wall Area | 3 | 7b+ |
4 |
Balas | Dihedral Wall Area | 3 | E5 6b |
5 |
Sabbath's Theatre | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7c |
6 |
The Puppeteer | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 8a |
7 |
Drenka | Dihedral Wall Area | 3 | 8a+ |
8 |
Dark Stranger | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 8a |
9 |
Relax | Dihedral Wall Area | 3 | E7 6b |
10 |
Brexit Crisis | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7c+ |
11 |
China Crisis | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7c+ |
12 |
Alumni | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 8a |
13 |
The Great Dihedral Wall Extravaganza | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7c |
14 |
Mr. Nice | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7c+ |
15 |
The Jekyll | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7c+ |
16 |
Dihedral Wall | Dihedral Wall Area | 1 | E5 6b |
17 |
Open Road | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7a |
18 |
Silk Road | Dihedral Wall Area | 1 | 7b |
19 |
Highway 395 | Dihedral Wall Area | 2 | 7a |
20 |
Arch Rival | Dihedral Wall Area | 1 | 7a |
21 |
Achilles Heel | Dihedral Wall Area | 1 | 6c+ |
22 |
Architrave | Dihedral Wall Area | 1 | E4 5c |
1 |
New Mystique | Optional Extra Area | 2 | 6b+ |
2 |
Fatoliti's Cat | Optional Extra Area | 6c | |
3 |
Conglom Arete | Optional Extra Area | 1 | 7a |
4 |
Allakazam | Optional Extra Area | 2 | 6c |
5 |
Quiet Flight Direct | Optional Extra Area | 2 | 7a+ |
6 |
Air Rage | Optional Extra Area | 1 | 7c+ |
7 |
Abracadavera | Optional Extra Area | 1 | E3 5c |
8 |
Perverted Geranium | Optional Extra Area | 2 | E4 6b |
9 |
Waiting for the Sun | Optional Extra Area | 1 | E5 6b |
10 |
Give Me Convenience | Optional Extra Area | 7c | |
11 |
No More Jumping to Conclusions | Optional Extra Area | 2 | 7c |
12 |
Jumpin' and Squeakin' | Optional Extra Area | 1 | E6 6b |
13 |
First Impressions | Optional Extra Area | 1 | 7c |
14 |
The Alternative Extra Option | Optional Extra Area | 2 | 7a+ |
15 |
Optional Extra | Optional Extra Area | E5 6b | |
16 |
Fit As | Optional Extra Area | 2 | E5 6a |
17 |
Butcher's Dog | Optional Extra Area | 2 | E4 6a |
1 |
Bird's Nest Crack | Biological Need Area | E1 5b | |
2 |
Another Clip in the Wall | Biological Need Area | 7a+ | |
3 |
Picnic on Hanging Rock | Biological Need Area | 2 | E5 6b |
4 |
Exponential Exhaustion | Biological Need Area | 3 | E7 6b |
5 |
Mantissa | Biological Need Area | 1 | E6 6b |
6 |
Biological Need | Biological Need Area | 3 | 7c |
7 |
The Yorkshire Ripper | Biological Need Area | 3 | 8b |
8 |
Zero Option | Biological Need Area | 2 | 7c+ |
9 |
Soft Option | Biological Need Area | 3 | 8a |
10 |
Massala Martyr | Biological Need Area | 1 | 8b |
11 |
A Smarter Martyr | Biological Need Area | 8b | |
12 |
Mistaken Identity | Biological Need Area | E5 7a | |
13 |
Warlord | Biological Need Area | E2 5c | |
14 |
Exodus | Biological Need Area | E7 6c | |
1 |
A May's In Power | Central Wall | 2 | 7c |
2 |
Peripathetic | Central Wall | 1 | E5 6b |
3 |
Central Wall | Central Wall | 3 | E4 6a |
4 |
White Rushin' | Central Wall | 3 | E6 6c |
5 |
High Octane | Central Wall | 2 | E6 6b |
6 |
White Feather | Central Wall | 1 | E5 6b |
7 |
Claws | Central Wall | 3 | E5 6a |
8 |
The Diedre | Central Wall | 3 | E2 5b |
9 |
System of a Down | Central Wall | 2 | E4 6b |
10 |
Worlds in Collision | Central Wall | 2 | E4 5c |
11 |
Ken | Central Wall | E5 6a | |
12 |
Ice Spurt Special | Central Wall | 1 | E6 6b |
13 |
Division of Labour | Central Wall | 2 | E6 6c |
1 |
Friends in High Places | The North Buttress | 2 | E4 5c |
2 |
Dominatrix | The North Buttress | 3 | 7c |
3 |
Exit to Eden | The North Buttress | 2 | 7c+ |
4 |
Drag Queen | The North Buttress | 2 | 7c+ |
5 |
Northern Exposure | The North Buttress | 8b+ | |
6 |
North Star | The North Buttress | 3 | 9a |
7 |
Progress | The North Buttress | 3 | 8c+ |
8 |
Northern Lights | The North Buttress | 9a | |
9 |
Full Tilt | The North Buttress | 1 | 8b |
10 |
Magnetic North | The North Buttress | 3 | 8c+ |
11 |
True North | The North Buttress | 3 | 8c |
12 |
Full On Action | The North Buttress | 1 | 8b+ |
13 |
Urgent Action | The North Buttress | 3 | 8a+ |
14 |
The Vanilla Path | The North Buttress | 2 | 8a+ |
15 |
The Thumb | The North Buttress | 3 | 8a |
16 |
They Brush Me | The North Buttress | 1 | 8a+ |
17 |
WYSIWYG | The North Buttress | 2 | 7b+ |
18 |
Complete Control | The North Buttress | 2 | 8a |
19 |
Over The Thumb | The North Buttress | 3 | 8a |
20 |
The Perfect Storm | The North Buttress | 2 | 7c+ |
21 |
Dead Calm | The North Buttress | 3 | 7c+ |
22 |
Nisus | The North Buttress | 2 | E6 6b |
23 |
Crank Stroke Groove | The North Buttress | 1 | E5 6b |
24 |
The Overlap | The North Buttress | 3 | E5 6b |
1 |
Rictus | Subculture Area | 1 | 7b |
2 |
The Last Gasp Finish | Subculture Area | 2 | 7b |
3 |
Dr Crimp | Subculture Area | 3 | 8b+ |
4 |
Suigeneris | Subculture Area | 7c | |
5 |
Slab Culture | Subculture Area | 2 | 7b+ |
6 |
Subculture | Subculture Area | 2 | 8a |
7 |
Myra Hindley | Subculture Area | 2 | 7c+ |
8 |
Le Lapin et le Pigeon | Subculture Area | 2 | 8a |
9 |
Little Ernie | Subculture Area | 2 | 7c |
10 |
Little Ernie Direct Start | Subculture Area | 2 | 7c+ |
11 |
Private Practice | Subculture Area | 1 | 8a+ |
12 |
Grooved Arete | Subculture Area | 3 | 8b |
13 |
Dalliance | Subculture Area | 3 | 8b+ |
14 |
La Connection | Subculture Area | 3 | 8b |
15 |
La False Connection | Subculture Area | 3 | 8b |
16 |
The Quick Fixe | Subculture Area | 3 | 8b |
17 |
More Rhubarb Faster | Subculture Area | 2 | 7c+ |
18 |
Brief Encounter | Subculture Area | 1 | 8b |
19 |
Smooth Torquer | Subculture Area | 1 | 7a+ |
20 |
Fit of Peak | Subculture Area | 1 | 7c |
21 |
Downright Theft | Subculture Area | E3 6a | |
22 |
Prying Eyes | Subculture Area | E1 5b |
Copyright © Rockfax