Valldemossa is an accessible and popular crag that has a good selection of fine middle-grade routes. The crag is delightfully positioned, high above the village of Port de Valldemossa, with great views over the village and the sea beyond. The only drawback to this idyllic setting is the proximity of the narrow road that passes extremely close to the bottom of the Main Crag. The climbing is spread over four main buttresses, which vary from steep slabs to vertical walls. The Main Crag has its famous roof-over-the-road route; an excellent and popular slab with some honeycomb features in the middle; and some interesting scooped runnels on the left-hand side. Up and left from the Main Crag are two considerably more-isolated areas that contain some superb longer routes. The other sectors are less interesting but worth a look if you have the time.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Scoop Left | Upper Crag | 2 | 7b |
2 |
Rusty | Upper Crag | 7c | |
3 |
Bulging Wall | Upper Crag | 2 | 7b+ |
4 |
Central Flake | Upper Crag | 2 | 6b+ |
5 |
Vall-de-mega | Upper Crag | 3 | 7a |
6 |
Wall Eliminate | Upper Crag | 1 | 7a+ |
7 |
Chimenea | Upper Crag | 3 | 5c |
8 |
Central Right | Upper Crag | 2 | 6b |
9 |
Spanky | Upper Crag | 2 | 6a |
10 |
Lanky | Upper Crag | 2 | 6a |
11 |
Average | Upper Crag | 2 | 6b+ |
12 |
Shorty | Upper Crag | 2 | 6a |
13 |
Arroz con leche | Upper Crag | 7b | |
14 |
Circ | Upper Crag | 7a+ | |
15 |
Jarcha | Upper Crag | 6c+ | |
16 |
Why Not | Upper Crag | 6c | |
17 |
Diedro y placa | Upper Crag | 6c | |
18 |
Arista y diedro | Upper Crag | 7a+ | |
19 |
Fisura fina | Upper Crag | 7b | |
20 |
Travesia | Upper Crag | 6c | |
21 |
Kirsten | Upper Crag | 1 | 6a |
22 |
Kirsten II | Upper Crag | 1 | 5c |
1 |
Leftest Edge | Main Crag | Proj | |
2 |
Left Edge | Main Crag | 1 | 6b |
3 |
Wall and Overhang | Main Crag | 2 | 6c+ |
4 |
Kiko | Main Crag | 2 | 6b |
5 |
Scooped Runnel | Main Crag | 1 | 6b |
6 |
Project | Main Crag | Proj | |
7 |
Palmolive | Main Crag | 2 | 7b |
8 |
Intrépido | Main Crag | 2 | 6c |
9 |
Something | Main Crag | 2 | 7a |
10 |
Vía des clau | Main Crag | 2 | 6b+ |
11 |
El jubilado | Main Crag | 1 | 5c |
12 |
Suphi Left-hand | Main Crag | 1 | 6b |
13 |
Suphi | Main Crag | 3 | 6a |
14 |
Fito | Main Crag | 1 | 6b+ |
15 |
Jubilado Direct | Main Crag | 1 | 6b |
16 |
Pepa | Main Crag | 2 | 6b |
17 |
Pepino | Main Crag | 1 | 6b+ |
18 |
Eliminate | Main Crag | Proj | |
19 |
Leaning Arete | Main Crag | Proj | |
20 |
Sostre den burotet | Main Crag | 3 | 6c+ |
21 |
Sostre Direct | Main Crag | 2 | 7a+ |
22 |
Dali | Main Crag | 2 | 5c |
1 |
Roof Route Left | Sector Waikiki | 1 | 7a |
2 |
Roof Route Right | Sector Waikiki | 1 | 7a |
3 |
Fisura | Sector Waikiki | 2 | 5c |
4 |
Under Waikiki | Sector Waikiki | 1 | 6c+ |
5 |
Waikiki | Sector Waikiki | 3 | 7b |
6 |
Chimenea | Sector Waikiki | 1 | 6a |
1 |
Izquierdo | Roadside Buttress | 4c | |
2 |
Centro | Roadside Buttress | 4a | |
3 |
Derecho | Roadside Buttress | 4a | |
4 |
Zurdo | Roadside Buttress | 6a | |
5 |
Rompededos | Roadside Buttress | 6a+ | |
6 |
Pérfido encanto | Roadside Buttress | 1 | 6a+ |
7 |
Triplet derecho | Roadside Buttress | 6b | |
8 |
Recto cresta | Roadside Buttress | 5c | |
9 |
Derecho castilla | Roadside Buttress | 6b |
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