Bosherston Head

Bosherston Head is the broad promontory between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head with huge solid faces on all sides. Despite this vast expanse of rock it has never been that popular mainly due to the intimidating nature of the climbing - you can't get a good view of it and the stuff you can see tends to be in the higher grades, plus the fact that we omitted the celebrated South Face from the last Rockfax guide. The most popular spot on the headland is the Keelhaul Wall; a fine compact wall of excellent rock with a quartet of class routes - Ghost Ship (E3), Intensive Scare (E2), Baker's Door (E1) and Keelhaul (E2). Next door is the dramatic leaning wall made infamous by the controversial route The Big Issue (E9) and adjacent to this is the stylish Ivory Tower (E2). Moving further round, the South Face is glorious, smacking of wild abseils, grand-scale adventure and seat-of-the-pants daring. This is partly because it's impossible to gain a decent view of your chosen route before engaging, and partly because this terrific hunk of rock is home to one of Pembroke's finest adventures - Preposterous Tales, going at the thoroughly unlikely (caving) grade of HVS, or the E2 we give it here! However, if you are really in search of emotional and soul-searching leads of E4 and above, on wonderful rock, giving you an experience which you will be talking about for years, then you need look no further than the Star Wars area.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Explorer 1 Keelhaul Area 1 S 4a
2
Ordinary Route Keelhaul Area 1 Diff
3
Hot and Tot Keelhaul Area 1 HS 4b
4
Olde Worde Climb Keelhaul Area 1 VS 4c
5
DEEsire Keelhaul Area 1 HVS 5a
6
Fifty Lashes, Mister Christian Keelhaul Area 2 E4 6b
7
Ghost Ship Keelhaul Area 3 E3 5c
8
Mutiny on the Bounty Keelhaul Area 2 E6 6a
9
Man Overboard Keelhaul Area 2 E5 6a
10
All Hands on Deck Keelhaul Area 1 E5 6b
11
Intensive Scare Keelhaul Area 2 E2 5c
12
Baker's Door Keelhaul Area 2 E1 5b
13
Keelhaul Keelhaul Area 3 E2 5c
14
The Golden Shower Keelhaul Area E4 5c
15
I See No Ships Keelhaul Area 1 E4 6b
16
Springboard Keelhaul Area 1 E1 5b
17
Wage War Keelhaul Area 2 E3 5c
18
Punks in the Tea Room Keelhaul Area 2 E5 6b
19
Ocean Drive Keelhaul Area 2 E6 6b
20
Pulling Like a Tractor Keelhaul Area 2 E6 6b
21
The Big Issue Keelhaul Area 3 E9 6c
22
The Big Softy Keelhaul Area 3 E7 6c
23
Ivory Tower Keelhaul Area 2 E2 6a
24
Agent Orange Keelhaul Area 1 E3 6a
25
Gone with the Wimp Keelhaul Area 2 VS 4b
1
Sunny Corner South Face 3 HVS 5a
2
Private Investigation South Face E3 5c
3
Quoin South Face 1 HS 4a
4
Poltergeist South Face 2 HVS 5a
5
Telekinesis South Face 1 HVS 5a
6
Neurosis South Face 1 E2 5c
7
Preposterous Tales South Face 3 E2 5b
8
High Life South Face 2 E1 5b
9
Hydrophobia South Face E6 6b
10
Frigid Digits South Face 1 E2 5b
11
Dayglow Saracen South Face 1 E2 5c
12
Exogen South Face 1 E3 6a
13
Wavelength South Face 2 E3 5c
14
The Book South Face 1 HVS 5a
15
Dope Without a Rope South Face HVS 5a
16
Chakademus and Pliers South Face 1 E1 5b
17
Warm Waves South Face 1 VS 4c
18
Wensleydale South Face 1 HVS 5a
19
Trade Wind South Face 1 E4 6a
20
Ocean Passage South Face 2 VS 4c
21
Lundy Road South Face 1 E2 5b
1
Steeplechase Star Wars 1 E2 5b
2
Star Wars Star Wars 3 E4 5c
3
The Empire Strikes Back Star Wars 2 E6 6b
4
Luke Skywalker Star Wars 3 E5 6b
5
Fuck the Demagogues Star Wars 3 E7 6c
6
Eat, Drink and Beat Gary Star Wars 3 E6 6b
7
Big in America Star Wars 3 E6 6b
8
Insignificance Star Wars 2 E4 6a

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