Bosherston Head is the broad promontory between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head with huge solid faces on all sides. Despite this vast expanse of rock it has never been that popular mainly due to the intimidating nature of the climbing - you can't get a good view of it and the stuff you can see tends to be in the higher grades, plus the fact that we omitted the celebrated South Face from the last Rockfax guide. The most popular spot on the headland is the Keelhaul Wall; a fine compact wall of excellent rock with a quartet of class routes - Ghost Ship (E3), Intensive Scare (E2), Baker's Door (E1) and Keelhaul (E2). Next door is the dramatic leaning wall made infamous by the controversial route The Big Issue (E9) and adjacent to this is the stylish Ivory Tower (E2). Moving further round, the South Face is glorious, smacking of wild abseils, grand-scale adventure and seat-of-the-pants daring. This is partly because it's impossible to gain a decent view of your chosen route before engaging, and partly because this terrific hunk of rock is home to one of Pembroke's finest adventures - Preposterous Tales, going at the thoroughly unlikely (caving) grade of HVS, or the E2 we give it here! However, if you are really in search of emotional and soul-searching leads of E4 and above, on wonderful rock, giving you an experience which you will be talking about for years, then you need look no further than the Star Wars area.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Explorer 1 | Keelhaul Area | 1 | S 4a |
2 |
Ordinary Route | Keelhaul Area | 1 | Diff |
3 |
Hot and Tot | Keelhaul Area | 1 | HS 4b |
4 |
Olde Worde Climb | Keelhaul Area | 1 | VS 4c |
5 |
DEEsire | Keelhaul Area | 1 | HVS 5a |
6 |
Fifty Lashes, Mister Christian | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E4 6b |
7 |
Ghost Ship | Keelhaul Area | 3 | E3 5c |
8 |
Mutiny on the Bounty | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E6 6a |
9 |
Man Overboard | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E5 6a |
10 |
All Hands on Deck | Keelhaul Area | 1 | E5 6b |
11 |
Intensive Scare | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E2 5c |
12 |
Baker's Door | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E1 5b |
13 |
Keelhaul | Keelhaul Area | 3 | E2 5c |
14 |
The Golden Shower | Keelhaul Area | E4 5c | |
15 |
I See No Ships | Keelhaul Area | 1 | E4 6b |
16 |
Springboard | Keelhaul Area | 1 | E1 5b |
17 |
Wage War | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E3 5c |
18 |
Punks in the Tea Room | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E5 6b |
19 |
Ocean Drive | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E6 6b |
20 |
Pulling Like a Tractor | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E6 6b |
21 |
The Big Issue | Keelhaul Area | 3 | E9 6c |
22 |
The Big Softy | Keelhaul Area | 3 | E7 6c |
23 |
Ivory Tower | Keelhaul Area | 2 | E2 6a |
24 |
Agent Orange | Keelhaul Area | 1 | E3 6a |
25 |
Gone with the Wimp | Keelhaul Area | 2 | VS 4b |
1 |
Sunny Corner | South Face | 3 | HVS 5a |
2 |
Private Investigation | South Face | E3 5c | |
3 |
Quoin | South Face | 1 | HS 4a |
4 |
Poltergeist | South Face | 2 | HVS 5a |
5 |
Telekinesis | South Face | 1 | HVS 5a |
6 |
Neurosis | South Face | 1 | E2 5c |
7 |
Preposterous Tales | South Face | 3 | E2 5b |
8 |
High Life | South Face | 2 | E1 5b |
9 |
Hydrophobia | South Face | E6 6b | |
10 |
Frigid Digits | South Face | 1 | E2 5b |
11 |
Dayglow Saracen | South Face | 1 | E2 5c |
12 |
Exogen | South Face | 1 | E3 6a |
13 |
Wavelength | South Face | 2 | E3 5c |
14 |
The Book | South Face | 1 | HVS 5a |
15 |
Dope Without a Rope | South Face | HVS 5a | |
16 |
Chakademus and Pliers | South Face | 1 | E1 5b |
17 |
Warm Waves | South Face | 1 | VS 4c |
18 |
Wensleydale | South Face | 1 | HVS 5a |
19 |
Trade Wind | South Face | 1 | E4 6a |
20 |
Ocean Passage | South Face | 2 | VS 4c |
21 |
Lundy Road | South Face | 1 | E2 5b |
1 |
Steeplechase | Star Wars | 1 | E2 5b |
2 |
Star Wars | Star Wars | 3 | E4 5c |
3 |
The Empire Strikes Back | Star Wars | 2 | E6 6b |
4 |
Luke Skywalker | Star Wars | 3 | E5 6b |
5 |
Fuck the Demagogues | Star Wars | 3 | E7 6c |
6 |
Eat, Drink and Beat Gary | Star Wars | 3 | E6 6b |
7 |
Big in America | Star Wars | 3 | E6 6b |
8 |
Insignificance | Star Wars | 2 | E4 6a |
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