The towering grey and red limestone faces of Llanymynech Quarry are home to a large number of fantastic sport pitches, many of which are exceptionally long and often climbable throughout the year thanks to the cliff\'s sheltered aspect. There is a good depth of quality sport climbing in the 6b to 7b grade span and, as a bonus a handful of excellent trad wall climbs that span the E grade from 1 to 5. The showpieces Nomad, Grid Iron, Black and Red Wall are unmissable when travelling along the road between Wrexham and Welshpool, and sit above a tree covered landscape that was once an active quarry but has now been developed into an attractive nature reserve. As a consequence climbing at Llanymynech Quarry is today an extremely pleasant experience with delightful views out across the River Severn floodplain to the hilltops of The Wrekin and Criggan. There are a number of access restrictions in place - these cover nesting bird sites and access to some of the quarry on ecological and safety grounds - see next page.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bayonets Fixed | Bay Wall | 6a+ | |
2 |
Bayeux Tapestry | Bay Wall | 6c+ | |
3 |
Bay Watch | Bay Wall | 1 | 6b+ |
4 |
Summer Bay Babe | Bay Wall | 6a | |
5 |
Bayonets Ready | Bay Wall | 1 | 6b |
6 |
Bay City Stroller | Bay Wall | 1 | 6a+ |
7 |
Bay Bee | Bay Wall | 1 | 6a |
8 |
Welcome to the Bay | Bay Wall | 1 | 6b |
9 |
Be My Baby | Bay Wall | 6b+ | |
10 |
Bye Bye Baby | Bay Wall | 6b | |
11 |
One Fine Bay | Bay Wall | 6b | |
12 |
Bay Leaf | Bay Wall | 1 | 5c |
13 |
Bay of Figs | Bay Wall | 1 | 6a |
14 |
About a Bay | Bay Wall | 1 | 6a |
1 |
Better Lait than Never | Cream Wall | 6b | |
2 |
Screaming Dream | Cream Wall | 6a+ | |
3 |
Semi Skimmed | Cream Wall | 6a+ | |
4 |
Gold Top | Cream Wall | 6b | |
5 |
All Gone Sour | Cream Wall | 6b | |
6 |
The Cat that Got the Cream | Cream Wall | 6b+ | |
7 |
UHT | Cream Wall | 6b | |
8 |
Never Rub Another Man's Rhubarb | Cream Wall | 6b | |
9 |
Sasha the Basha | Cream Wall | 1 | 7a |
1 |
Alors! | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | Diff | |
2 |
Ca Va! | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | VD | |
3 |
Voila! | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | VD | |
4 |
Merde! | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | HS 4a | |
5 |
Dirty Climb | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 5b | |
6 |
Dream of White Horses, Not | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 6a | |
7 |
Sheila's Route | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 5c | |
8 |
Andy Pandy | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | E4 5c | |
9 |
Slobberlob | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 7b | |
10 |
Back-Bee Tubin | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 2 | 8a |
11 |
Little Weed | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 2 | 7c |
12 |
Spotty Dog | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 1 | 7b |
13 |
Bill and Ben | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 7b+ | |
14 |
Saul's Crack | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | VS 4c | |
15 |
Culture and Boutique | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 6a | |
16 |
Eau de Culture | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 5c | |
17 |
No Name | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 6a | |
18 |
The Cult | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 5c | |
19 |
Culture Vulture | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 5b | |
20 |
Culture Cryptic | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 5b | |
21 |
Walker's Walk | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 6a | |
22 |
Flowery Pot | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 6c+ | |
23 |
C'est Chaud! | Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry | 1 | 7c+ |
1 |
The Screaming Skull | Nomad Wall | 3 | 7b |
2 |
Nomad | Nomad Wall | 3 | 7a+ |
3 |
This Won't Hurt | Nomad Wall | 3 | 7a |
4 |
Southern Mountains | Nomad Wall | 1 | 6a |
5 |
Unbroken | Nomad Wall | 3 | 7a |
6 |
Rabble Rouser | Nomad Wall | 1 | 6b+ |
7 |
Another Filling | Nomad Wall | 6b+ | |
8 |
Root Treatment | Nomad Wall | 1 | 6c |
9 |
Pull 'em Out | Nomad Wall | 1 | 6a |
10 |
Dentine | Nomad Wall | 5c | |
1 |
Journee de Merde | Foreigner Wall | 6a+ | |
2 |
Autoroute de Soleil | Foreigner Wall | 6a | |
3 |
La Ligne Vert | Foreigner Wall | 1 | 6b |
4 |
Damn Foreigners | Foreigner Wall | 6a | |
5 |
Chaud Show | Foreigner Wall | 6a | |
6 |
Troi Milles Voies | Foreigner Wall | 5a | |
7 |
Frenchie | Foreigner Wall | 5c | |
8 |
The Foreign Legion | Foreigner Wall | 6a+ | |
9 |
Too Much Dutch | Foreigner Wall | 6a+ | |
10 |
Herman the German | Foreigner Wall | 6a+ | |
11 |
FCUK | Foreigner Wall | 5c | |
12 |
Foreign Muck | Foreigner Wall | 6a | |
13 |
TGV | Foreigner Wall | 5c | |
14 |
Who Fell in the Poubelle | Foreigner Wall | 5a | |
1 |
Strawberry Tubin | Grid Iron Wall | 2 | 7b |
2 |
Jack the Smuggler | Grid Iron Wall | 2 | 7a |
3 |
Smack the Juggler | Grid Iron Wall | 1 | 6b+ |
4 |
A Night on the Town | Grid Iron Wall | 6c+ | |
5 |
Gaza Strippers | Grid Iron Wall | 2 | 6b+ |
6 |
A Night Torchlight Parade | Grid Iron Wall | 2 | 6c |
7 |
Curfew | Grid Iron Wall | 3 | 6b+ |
8 |
Grid Iron | Grid Iron Wall | 3 | 6c |
9 |
Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub | Grid Iron Wall | 1 | 7a+ |
10 |
Incy Wincy Spider | Grid Iron Wall | 2 | 7a+ |
11 |
Hickory Dickory Dock | Grid Iron Wall | 2 | 7a |
12 |
Humpty Dumpty | Grid Iron Wall | 2 | 6c+ |
13 |
Smack the Juggler Extension | Grid Iron Wall | 1 | 6a |
14 |
Sack the Strugglers | Grid Iron Wall | 1 | 6c |
15 |
The Stringlers | Grid Iron Wall | 6b | |
16 |
Up the Spout | Grid Iron Wall | 1 | 6b |
17 |
Bah Bah Black Sheep | Grid Iron Wall | 1 | 6a+ |
18 |
Coming of Age | Grid Iron Wall | 6a | |
19 |
49 and Counting | Grid Iron Wall | 6a | |
1 |
Picking Blackheads | Black Wall | 1 | E5 6a |
2 |
While the Cat's Away | Black Wall | 2 | E4 6a |
3 |
Black Wall | Black Wall | 2 | E1 5b |
4 |
Bastard | Black Wall | 3 | E2 5c |
5 |
Black Wall Direct | Black Wall | 3 | E2 5c |
6 |
Black is Beautiful | Black Wall | 3 | E5 6b |
7 |
Churnet Runners | Black Wall | 1 | E4 6a |
8 |
Zeppelin | Black Wall | E2 5b | |
1 |
Crab Stick | Red Wall | 2 | 6c |
2 |
Lobster on the Loose | Red Wall | 2 | 7a |
3 |
Rapture of the Deep | Red Wall | 2 | 7a |
4 |
Subterranean Sidewalk | Red Wall | 3 | 6c+ |
5 |
Dead Man's Fingers | Red Wall | 3 | 7a |
6 |
The Ancient Mariner | Red Wall | 2 | 7a+ |
7 |
The Deep | Red Wall | 2 | 6c+ |
8 |
I Saw Three Ships | Red Wall | 2 | 6c+ |
9 |
Ship Dip | Red Wall | 1 | 6c+ |
10 |
Mussel Bound | Red Wall | 3 | 7a+ |
11 |
Long John Codling | Red Wall | 2 | 7a |
12 |
Shipperdy Doo-Dah | Red Wall | 1 | 7a+ |
13 |
Dead Man's Chest | Red Wall | 2 | 7a |
14 |
Clematis | Red Wall | 1 | 6b+ |
15 |
Poison Ivy | Red Wall | 2 | 7a+ |
16 |
Day of the Triffids | Red Wall | 1 | 6b |
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