Lower Sharpnose

Wafer-thin and defying the onslaught of wind and sea, the three massive fins of rock that poke out from the coastline at Lower Sharpnose Point provide some of the UK's most spectacular rock climbs. The routes span the grades from HVS to E8 and all share the magnificent combination of exposure and great positions that make a visit to Lower Sharpnose a memorable experience. The rock is on the whole well supplied with good holds and gear, although a high level of fitness is required in order to hang on and place it. The majority of the lines follow discontinuous thin crack-lines up the blank-looking faces of the fins apart from the classic easier corner-lines. Some of the lines have in situ equipment in the form of pegs which should always be backed-up if possible and a good rack of cams will be found very useful. The faces of the fins allow for climbing in the sun and shade throughout the day and also may give shelter from the wind.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Hatchet North Fin HVS 4c
2
The Devonian North Fin 2 E5 6a
3
Mascon North Fin 2 E1 5a
4
Misery Goat North Fin 2 E2 5b
5
Last Laugh North Fin 2 E2 5c
6
The Smirk North Fin E1 5a
7
When the Goat Comes In North Fin 1 E4 5c
8
Diamond Smiles North Fin 3 E3 5c
9
Crooked Mile North Fin 2 E3 5c
10
Wraith North Fin 2 E4 6a
11
The Smile North Fin 3 E1 5a
12
Out of the Blue North Fin 3 E2 5b
13
Sea Green North Fin 2 E4 5c
1
The Flying Finn Middle Fin - North Face 1 E4 6a
2
Spoils of War Middle Fin - North Face 1 E4 5c
3
Lunakhod Middle Fin - North Face 3 HVS 5a
4
Clawtrack Middle Fin - North Face 1 HVS 4c
5
Culm to Mother Middle Fin - North Face 2 E5 6b
6
Twilight Zone Middle Fin - North Face 1 E4 5c
7
Challenger Middle Fin - North Face E4 5c
8
Small Plate McGinty Middle Fin - North Face E5 6b
9
A Tonic for the Troops Middle Fin - North Face 1 E2 5b
10
Mother's Ruin Middle Fin - North Face E2 5b
1
Finesse Middle Fin - South Face 1 E5 6b
2
Break On Through Middle Fin - South Face 3 E4 5c
3
Pacemaker Middle Fin - South Face 3 E5 6a
4
Sunscape Middle Fin - South Face 1 E5 6a
5
Fay Middle Fin - South Face 3 E4 5c
6
Diastole Middle Fin - South Face 1 E5 6a
7
Coronary Country Middle Fin - South Face 3 E6 6b
8
The Monk's Satanic Verses Middle Fin - South Face 3 E8 6c
9
Hellbound on my Trail Middle Fin - South Face 2 E4 5c
10
Heart By-pass Middle Fin - South Face 2 E4 5c
11
Azrael Middle Fin - South Face 2 E4 5c
12
Hearts and Minds Middle Fin - South Face 1 E6 6a
1
Dulcima South Fin 1 HVS 5a

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