The Dewerstone

The Dewerstone is located in one of the ancient and magical wooded valleys of southwest Dartmoor and is a wonderful place to experience some classic low to mid-grade climbing. For those who have not been to the Dewerstone before, the first sighting will come as a neck-craning surprise. The Main Face towers up through the trees above the babbling River Plym. Many of the climbs are multi-pitch, sustained and often require good crack technique. The Main Face, along with the equally appealing outcrops of Needle and Raven Buttresses, are seamed with long cracks and well defined grooves and corners. Protection is nearly always perfect and the holds are positive allowing the spectacular situations to be enjoyed to the full. The Dewerstone has plenty to offer the climber operating in the Very Difficult to E1 grade range and would make an excellent long weekend venue.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Pinnacle Buttress Pinnacle Buttress 2 VD
2
Mucky Gully Pinnacle Buttress 2 Diff
3
Reverse Cleft Pinnacle Buttress 1 S 4a
4
Colonel's Arete Pinnacle Buttress 2 VD
1
Leviathan Main Face 3 VS 4c
2
Extendible Arete Main Face 2 E1 5b
3
Vala Main Face 2 HVS 5a
4
Central Groove Main Face 3 HS 4b
5
Scimitar Direct Main Face 3 E1 5b
6
Fruitflancase Main Face 3 E1 5a
7
Gideon Main Face 3 E1 5b
8
Climbers' Club Direct Main Face 3 HVS 5a
9
Climbers' Club Ordinary Main Face 2 VS 4b
10
Scimitar Variations Main Face 3 E1 5b
11
Route B Main Face 2 HVD
1
Needle Arete Needle Buttress 2 VD
2
Cyclops Needle Buttress 1 HVS 5a
1
Fly on the Wall Raven Buttress 2 HS 4b
2
Silken Thread/Imperialist Raven Buttress 2 HVS 5a
3
Spider's Web Raven Buttress 3 HVS 5a
4
Raven Face Raven Buttress 1 VD

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