Carreg-y-Barcud

Carreg-y-Barcud is undoubtedly North Pembroke's finest sheet of sandstone; its purple/brown walls and slabs are taller and more impressive than the region's other venues, and are home to some brilliant, high-quality routes. The rock here is a compact sandstone, which has formed into huge uniform slabs covered in tiny edges and thin cracks. The Main Wall of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest slab in the area and has a superb selection of trad routes from E1 upwards.The climbing is mostly very sustained and technical but if you have strong calves you will be able to take all day over the moves. Most of the routes follow thin cracks which are wide enough for wires but not for your fingers. In places the cracks run out which gives bolder sections and there is little in the way of fixed protection. Indeed routes climbed in the past with bolt runners have all had these removed, any new bolts will also be removed. There are some pegs but these are likely to be untrustworthy so take great care before you place any reliance on them. The lesser climbed routes of all grades may have the odd loose hold so take care.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Besieged Grey Face E1 5a
2
Watch with Mother Grey Face E1 5b
3
Ethos Grey Face 2 HVS 5a
4
The Woodentops Grey Face 1 E2 5b
5
The Long Weight Grey Face E3 5c
6
Roll on Summer Grey Face HS 4b
7
Bananarama Grey Face HS 4b
8
Sometimes Grey Face 1 S 4a
9
Mombasa Grey Face 1 E1 5b
1
Salty the Seal Yellow Wall E1 5a
2
The Bottomless Bin Yellow Wall E3 5c
3
Cilfynydd by Sea Yellow Wall E3 5c
4
Amber Yellow Wall HS 4b
5
Yellow Edge Yellow Wall 1 VS 4c
6
The Squid Yellow Wall 1 E3 5c
7
Pass the Parkin on the Left-hand Side Yellow Wall 1 E3 5c
8
Sinecure Yellow Wall 3 E1 5b
9
The Hypocrite Yellow Wall 2 E3 5c
10
Smirnoff Yellow Wall 1 E3 5c
11
Octopus Direct Yellow Wall E3 5b
12
Granny Basher Yellow Wall 2 HVS 4c
13
Gentlemen's Corner Yellow Wall 1 HVS 5a
14
Agent Orange Yellow Wall 1 VS 4c
1
Left Edge Main Face 1 VD
2
Isandalwanda Main Face HVS 4c
3
My Back Pages Main Face 1 E1 5a
4
Metamorphosis Main Face 2 HS 4b
5
Chopper Squad Main Face 1 E1 5a
6
Be Careful Main Face E2 5b
7
Be-bop-a-lula Main Face 1 E1 5b
8
Be Reckless Main Face 2 E2 5b
9
Be Brave Main Face 2 E1 5b
10
Beeline Main Face 2 E1 5b
11
Starling by the Seaside Main Face 2 E2 5b
12
Be Clever Main Face 2 E2 5c
13
The Great Valerio Main Face 3 E1 5a
14
Snap Crackle 'n' Splash Main Face E3 5b
15
A Head in the Clouds Main Face 1 E4 5c
16
Kitten Claws Main Face 3 E3 5c
17
Commoner's Rights Main Face 1 E6 6a
18
Mean Feat Main Face 3 E5 6a
19
Thrift Main Face 2 E6 6b
20
Billy Spragg Main Face 3 E3 6a
21
All or Nothing Main Face 2 E6 6c
22
Daddy Cool Main Face 2 E8 6b
23
Sledgehamer Main Face 2 E6 6b
24
Naddyn Main Face 1 E5 6a
25
First Corner Main Face 1 VD
26
First Corner Direct Main Face 1 VS 4c
27
I'm Not Addicted, I Can Give Up Anytime Main Face E6 6a
28
Beyond the Beyond Main Face 2 E5 6b
29
Beyond the Azimuth Main Face 2 E1 5b
30
Double Corner Main Face 1 HS 4b
31
Rust Never Sleeps Main Face E3 5b
32
Stingray Main Face 2 E2 5c
33
Gilded Moments Main Face E5 6a
34
Just Fits Main Face 2 HVS 4c
35
Shelf Life Main Face 1 E3 5b
36
Off the Shelf Main Face E2 5b
37
The Fermenting Telescope Main Face 2 E1 5b
38
Curvature Main Face E2 5c
39
The Lobster Main Face E1 5b
40
Barcud Chimney Main Face D

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