Carreg-y-Barcud is undoubtedly North Pembroke's finest sheet of sandstone; its purple/brown walls and slabs are taller and more impressive than the region's other venues, and are home to some brilliant, high-quality routes. The rock here is a compact sandstone, which has formed into huge uniform slabs covered in tiny edges and thin cracks. The Main Wall of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest slab in the area and has a superb selection of trad routes from E1 upwards.The climbing is mostly very sustained and technical but if you have strong calves you will be able to take all day over the moves. Most of the routes follow thin cracks which are wide enough for wires but not for your fingers. In places the cracks run out which gives bolder sections and there is little in the way of fixed protection. Indeed routes climbed in the past with bolt runners have all had these removed, any new bolts will also be removed. There are some pegs but these are likely to be untrustworthy so take great care before you place any reliance on them. The lesser climbed routes of all grades may have the odd loose hold so take care.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Besieged | Grey Face | E1 5a | |
2 |
Watch with Mother | Grey Face | E1 5b | |
3 |
Ethos | Grey Face | 2 | HVS 5a |
4 |
The Woodentops | Grey Face | 1 | E2 5b |
5 |
The Long Weight | Grey Face | E3 5c | |
6 |
Roll on Summer | Grey Face | HS 4b | |
7 |
Bananarama | Grey Face | HS 4b | |
8 |
Sometimes | Grey Face | 1 | S 4a |
9 |
Mombasa | Grey Face | 1 | E1 5b |
1 |
Salty the Seal | Yellow Wall | E1 5a | |
2 |
The Bottomless Bin | Yellow Wall | E3 5c | |
3 |
Cilfynydd by Sea | Yellow Wall | E3 5c | |
4 |
Amber | Yellow Wall | HS 4b | |
5 |
Yellow Edge | Yellow Wall | 1 | VS 4c |
6 |
The Squid | Yellow Wall | 1 | E3 5c |
7 |
Pass the Parkin on the Left-hand Side | Yellow Wall | 1 | E3 5c |
8 |
Sinecure | Yellow Wall | 3 | E1 5b |
9 |
The Hypocrite | Yellow Wall | 2 | E3 5c |
10 |
Smirnoff | Yellow Wall | 1 | E3 5c |
11 |
Octopus Direct | Yellow Wall | E3 5b | |
12 |
Granny Basher | Yellow Wall | 2 | HVS 4c |
13 |
Gentlemen's Corner | Yellow Wall | 1 | HVS 5a |
14 |
Agent Orange | Yellow Wall | 1 | VS 4c |
1 |
Left Edge | Main Face | 1 | VD |
2 |
Isandalwanda | Main Face | HVS 4c | |
3 |
My Back Pages | Main Face | 1 | E1 5a |
4 |
Metamorphosis | Main Face | 2 | HS 4b |
5 |
Chopper Squad | Main Face | 1 | E1 5a |
6 |
Be Careful | Main Face | E2 5b | |
7 |
Be-bop-a-lula | Main Face | 1 | E1 5b |
8 |
Be Reckless | Main Face | 2 | E2 5b |
9 |
Be Brave | Main Face | 2 | E1 5b |
10 |
Beeline | Main Face | 2 | E1 5b |
11 |
Starling by the Seaside | Main Face | 2 | E2 5b |
12 |
Be Clever | Main Face | 2 | E2 5c |
13 |
The Great Valerio | Main Face | 3 | E1 5a |
14 |
Snap Crackle 'n' Splash | Main Face | E3 5b | |
15 |
A Head in the Clouds | Main Face | 1 | E4 5c |
16 |
Kitten Claws | Main Face | 3 | E3 5c |
17 |
Commoner's Rights | Main Face | 1 | E6 6a |
18 |
Mean Feat | Main Face | 3 | E5 6a |
19 |
Thrift | Main Face | 2 | E6 6b |
20 |
Billy Spragg | Main Face | 3 | E3 6a |
21 |
All or Nothing | Main Face | 2 | E6 6c |
22 |
Daddy Cool | Main Face | 2 | E8 6b |
23 |
Sledgehamer | Main Face | 2 | E6 6b |
24 |
Naddyn | Main Face | 1 | E5 6a |
25 |
First Corner | Main Face | 1 | VD |
26 |
First Corner Direct | Main Face | 1 | VS 4c |
27 |
I'm Not Addicted, I Can Give Up Anytime | Main Face | E6 6a | |
28 |
Beyond the Beyond | Main Face | 2 | E5 6b |
29 |
Beyond the Azimuth | Main Face | 2 | E1 5b |
30 |
Double Corner | Main Face | 1 | HS 4b |
31 |
Rust Never Sleeps | Main Face | E3 5b | |
32 |
Stingray | Main Face | 2 | E2 5c |
33 |
Gilded Moments | Main Face | E5 6a | |
34 |
Just Fits | Main Face | 2 | HVS 4c |
35 |
Shelf Life | Main Face | 1 | E3 5b |
36 |
Off the Shelf | Main Face | E2 5b | |
37 |
The Fermenting Telescope | Main Face | 2 | E1 5b |
38 |
Curvature | Main Face | E2 5c | |
39 |
The Lobster | Main Face | E1 5b | |
40 |
Barcud Chimney | Main Face | D |
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