The deep water soloing of Cornwall's isolated Nare Head was discovered in July 2005, when the author spent nine days paddling a sea kayak from Sidmouth to Falmouth in search of fresh crags. Nare Head's climbing is actually found 1km east of Nare Head itself, and features mainly vertical walls offering technical climbing on small edges, mostly based around the aretes and walls of a sheltered, rectangular zawn. The zawn's entrance faces south-east, with the Black Tower getting light from dawn to mid-morning; the sun then swings around to bathe the Big Blue Face in sun from midday onwards. Nare Head's rock is of volcanic origin, and, although similar in appearance to some of the Lizard's rock, is actually known as Greenstone.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Rosen Traverse | Rosen Bay | 1 | 4a S1 |
2 |
Old Peculiar | Rosen Bay | 1 | 4c S1 |
3 |
Brahma | Rosen Bay | 1 | 6b S0 |
4 |
Bishop's Finger | Rosen Bay | 5a S0 | |
5 |
Old Thumper | Rosen Bay | 2 | 6a S1 |
6 |
Old Jock's Tunnel | Rosen Bay | 3 | 6c+ S1 |
1 |
The Black Traverse | The Black Tower | 2 | 6c+ S0 |
2 |
Cafe Noir | The Black Tower | 1 | 6b+ S1 |
3 |
Night Shift | The Black Tower | 2 | 6b+ S1 |
4 |
Lemoria | The Black Tower | 3 | 6b S1 |
5 |
Dolphins Always Make Me Cry | The Black Tower | 2 | 6b+ S2 |
6 |
Su Doku | The Black Tower | 2 | 6c S2 |
1 |
Jean Reno | The Big Blue Face | 1 | 7a S0 |
2 |
Luc Besson | The Big Blue Face | 6a+ S0 | |
3 |
Ong-Bak | The Big Blue Face | 2 | 7b+ S1 |
4 |
Link-up: Ong-Bak - Big Blue | The Big Blue Face | 7a S0 | |
5 |
The Big Blue | The Big Blue Face | 2 | 6b+ S0 |
6 |
Carlo Varini | The Big Blue Face | 1 | 6c S2 |
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