One of Dorset\'s principal sport crags, Blacknor North, is a significant destination that is endowed with an abundance of first-rate lines, many of which ascend striking flowstone formations. With grades that will suit a broad spectrum of climbers and a comfortable base below the crag to hang out, Blacknor North is one of the best places to sample what Portland climbing has on offer - for the first time visitor and for the initiated there is plenty to come back for. An increasing number of smaller sections of cliff nearby have been developed and provide even more scope for exploring the area.Alternative ApproachPark in the church parking on Wide Street. From the parking, cross the road and take the footpath to the coastpath. Turn left (south) and follow the path to a wooden bridge (with barrier) - 20m further on is the descent to Pit Prop Crag and Fallaway Block, and 60m further along the path is the descent path to Blacknor North. This approach takes about the same time as the main approach.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Reinheitsgebot | Far North | 4a | |
2 |
It's the End of the World as We Know it (and I Feel Fine) | Far North | 5a | |
3 |
Unprecedented Times | Far North | 6a | |
4 |
Another One for the Pot | Far North | 6a+ | |
5 |
Enlightenment | Far North | 1 | 6a |
6 |
Slim Fingers' Revenge | Far North | 1 | 7a |
7 |
Boiled Lobster | Far North | 1 | 6b |
8 |
Safety First Then Teamwork | Far North | 7a+ | |
9 |
The Escape Route | Far North | 6c | |
10 |
The Ivanator | Far North | 1 | 6b |
11 |
Blown Away | Far North | 1 | 6c+ |
12 |
The Blacknor Lemmings | Far North | 5b | |
13 |
Walking on Broken Glass | Far North | 6b+ | |
14 |
The Notorious Ivy G | Far North | 5b | |
15 |
I Spy Gaz Fry | Far North | 5c | |
16 |
Princess Consuela Bananahammock | Far North | 6a+ | |
17 |
A Highway With No One On It | Far North | 6b | |
18 |
One Armed Bandit | Far North | 5c | |
19 |
The Mighty Midget | Far North | 6b+ | |
1 |
Ohana | Blacknor Fort Quarry | 4a | |
2 |
The Adventure Begins | Blacknor Fort Quarry | 3a | |
3 |
The Man in the Moon | Blacknor Fort Quarry | 6a | |
4 |
Wet Pubs Are Just A Memory | Blacknor Fort Quarry | 5a | |
5 |
Mystery Stripper | Blacknor Fort Quarry | 5c | |
6 |
Ghost Writer | Blacknor Fort Quarry | 5c | |
1 |
Absolute Beginners | Death of Cool Area | 2c | |
2 |
Too Hard for Matt Ilott | Death of Cool Area | 3c | |
3 |
Chin Reaction | Death of Cool Area | 6c | |
4 |
San Andreas | Death of Cool Area | E1 5b | |
5 |
Meltdown | Death of Cool Area | 2 | 7a |
6 |
Quakin' in My Bones | Death of Cool Area | 2 | 7a+ |
7 |
Sellerfield | Death of Cool Area | 1 | 7b |
8 |
The Taylor Show | Death of Cool Area | 1 | 6a+ |
9 |
Speleo Joy Toy | Death of Cool Area | VS 4b | |
10 |
Living the Dream | Death of Cool Area | 6b+ | |
11 |
Death of Cool | Death of Cool Area | 1 | 7a+ |
12 |
Drag Racing Underground | Death of Cool Area | 2 | 6c+ |
13 |
Poppadom | Death of Cool Area | E1 5a | |
1 |
Seattle Be the Day | Seattle Be the Day Area | 2 | 6b+ |
2 |
The Fabulous Bakery Boys | Seattle Be the Day Area | 1 | 6c |
3 |
Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher | Seattle Be the Day Area | 2 | 6b |
4 |
Grease Paint and Monkey Brains | Seattle Be the Day Area | 1 | 6a+ |
5 |
Indian Summer | Seattle Be the Day Area | 1 | 6a |
6 |
The Curler | Seattle Be the Day Area | 1 | VS 4c |
7 |
Blowing Chunks | Seattle Be the Day Area | 6c | |
8 |
Where's Blue Hippo | Seattle Be the Day Area | 1 | 7a+ |
9 |
Beer and Corruption | Seattle Be the Day Area | 1 | 7a |
10 |
Henry Rollins for President | Seattle Be the Day Area | 7a+ | |
11 |
Shatter My Illusions, but Don't Break My Heart | Seattle Be the Day Area | 1 | VS 4a |
12 |
Wynona's Big Brown Beaver | Seattle Be the Day Area | 6c | |
13 |
Ximenesque | Seattle Be the Day Area | 6b+ | |
14 |
In Dust We Trust | Seattle Be the Day Area | 6c+ | |
1 |
Ironhead | Captain Klutz Area | 2 | 7a+ |
2 |
Meg's Got Leukaemia | Captain Klutz Area | 2 | 6a |
3 |
Cinema Paradiso | Captain Klutz Area | 1 | 6a |
4 |
Skin Flick | Captain Klutz Area | 7c+ | |
5 |
Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune | Captain Klutz Area | 1 | 6a |
6 |
Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality | Captain Klutz Area | 1 | 6c |
7 |
Unknown | Captain Klutz Area | 6a | |
1 |
For Love and Liberty | Wolfgang Forever Area | 3 | 7a+ |
2 |
Is Vic There? | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 7a |
3 |
Sanfte Kuss | Wolfgang Forever Area | 1 | 7a+ |
4 |
Wolfgang Forever | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 7a |
5 |
Popeye Doyle | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 7c |
6 |
French Connection UK | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 7b+ |
7 |
Appleturnoverload | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 7a+ |
8 |
The Post Rad Gypsy Junkshow's Search for Teacakes | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 7a |
9 |
The Magic Bowl of the Mushroom Men | Wolfgang Forever Area | 1 | 6c+ |
10 |
Very Sleepy River | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 6b |
11 |
The 'Real' Cat of Cockles Cottage | Wolfgang Forever Area | 2 | 7b+ |
12 |
Edge Hog | Wolfgang Forever Area | 7a+ | |
13 |
Klepto Krack | Wolfgang Forever Area | HVS 4c | |
14 |
Toes Curl | Wolfgang Forever Area | 1 | 6c+ |
15 |
Freaky Ralph | Wolfgang Forever Area | 3 | 8a+ |
16 |
Aim High, Shoot Low | Wolfgang Forever Area | 1 | 6a+ |
1 |
Downtown Julie Brown | Reptile Smile Area | 3 | 6c |
2 |
Reptile Smile | Reptile Smile Area | 3 | 6a+ |
3 |
Talking Smack | Reptile Smile Area | 1 | 5c |
4 |
Slings Shot | Reptile Smile Area | 3 | 5a |
5 |
Crocadilia | Reptile Smile Area | 1 | 6a |
6 |
Spanner Eyes | Reptile Smile Area | 2 | 7b |
7 |
England's Dreaming | Reptile Smile Area | 3 | 7a+ |
8 |
Cake Walk | Reptile Smile Area | 2 | 6a+ |
9 |
The Tea-Cake Path | Reptile Smile Area | 1 | 6b |
10 |
Dirt Track | Reptile Smile Area | VS 4b | |
11 |
Californian Hot Licks | Reptile Smile Area | 6a+ | |
1 |
Doughnuts and Duvets | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 1 | 6b |
2 |
Apfelstrudel | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 1 | 6a |
3 |
Dwarf Lops | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 1 | 6b+ |
4 |
Suck, Don't Blow | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 1 | 6c |
5 |
Mother's Milk | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 2 | 6a |
6 |
Do You Like Our Owls? | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 1 | 6b |
7 |
Hot From the Forge | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 1 | 7a |
8 |
Onto the Ice Flow | Blacknor Pinnacle Area | 1 | 7a |
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