The trio of cliffs centred around the massive detached section of cliff dubbed The Battleship are some of the best on Portland\'s west coast. The cliffs are popular with teams of all abilities however the large number of routes means that it rarely feels crowded. The Battleship Back Cliff is the place to head for to experience some brilliant long pitches that all feature an initial foray up a steep wall of chert striped rock prior to engaging with the exposed grooves and aretes on its upper ramparts. The Block lies in front of the Back Cliff and has plenty of technical off-vertical pitches at friendly grades and also has the benefit of getting the sun in the morning. Further on are the smaller lesser visited crags of The Attic, The Balcony and Brontosaurus Wall, whilst The Veranda is a very popular spot that features an expansive sunny base and lots of pitches in the 4s, 5s and low 6s. If a rest from the climbing is needed a path at the south end of the block leads down to some good sunbathing spots and the sea
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pol Pot Had the Lot | The Back Cliff | 6b | |
2 |
Sex Cauldron | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7b |
3 |
Even Better than the Beatles | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7b |
4 |
Arc of a Fridge | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7b |
5 |
Dreams Burn Down | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7a+ |
6 |
Nihil | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7b |
7 |
No Man is an Island | The Back Cliff | 3 | 6c |
8 |
Always Have the Edge | The Back Cliff | 2 | 6c |
9 |
Pump Hitler | The Back Cliff | 3 | 7a+ |
10 |
Buoys Will Be Buoys | The Back Cliff | 3 | 6b+ |
11 |
Shape Shifter | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7c |
12 |
Jurassic Shift | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7a |
13 |
The Fun Factory | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7b |
14 |
Info Freako | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7b+ |
15 |
Rave Mission | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7b+ |
16 |
Trance Mission | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7c |
17 |
The Racing Line | The Back Cliff | 3 | 7b+ |
18 |
Zinc Oxide Mountain | The Back Cliff | 3 | 7b+ |
19 |
Bending the Rules | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7b+ |
20 |
Lost Army Expedition | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6c+ |
21 |
Scapa Flow | The Back Cliff | 2 | 6c+ |
22 |
Koenig Class | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7a+ |
23 |
Raise the Titanic | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6b+ |
24 |
The Price of Silence | The Back Cliff | 2 | 6a |
25 |
Wave Dodging | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7a |
26 |
Sink the Bismarck | The Back Cliff | 2 | 6c |
27 |
Big Fish | The Back Cliff | 7a | |
28 |
Wiggi Direct | The Back Cliff | 6c+ | |
29 |
Wiggi and Mopoke's Excellent New Hilti | The Back Cliff | 1 | 5c |
30 |
A Dream of White Porsches | The Back Cliff | 1 | 5c |
31 |
The Sound of One Hold Snapping | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6b+ |
32 |
Electrically-Injected Shed Head | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6b+ |
33 |
Splat the Cat | The Back Cliff | 6c+ | |
34 |
Shallow End of the Gene Pool | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6c |
35 |
Project 'A' | The Back Cliff | 1 | 7a |
36 |
Searing Tunnel of Re-injury | The Back Cliff | 2 | 6b |
37 |
The Cones of Stress | The Back Cliff | 7a+ | |
38 |
Psychic EMF | The Back Cliff | 2 | 7a+ |
39 |
God Told Me to Skin You Alive | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6c+ |
40 |
Roadkill on the Information Superhighway | The Back Cliff | 6b | |
41 |
Error 404 | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6a+ |
42 |
Superfast | The Back Cliff | 1 | 6c |
43 |
Megahurts | The Back Cliff | 6c+ | |
44 |
Terrorbyte | The Back Cliff | 6b+ | |
1 |
U-143 | The Block | 1 | HVS 5a |
2 |
Coming Unstuck | The Block | 1 | 6a+ |
3 |
Block 1 | The Block | 1 | VD |
4 |
Block 2 | The Block | Diff | |
5 |
Block 3 | The Block | VD | |
6 |
Braer Rabbit | The Block | 1 | 4b |
7 |
This is This | The Block | 1 | 5a |
8 |
Wake Up, Time to Die | The Block | 1 | 6b |
9 |
No Smears Here | The Block | 1 | 6a+ |
10 |
Block 4 | The Block | S 4a | |
11 |
Block 5 | The Block | HS 4a | |
12 |
Like a Drowning Man | The Block | 1 | 4b |
13 |
Hang Onto Your Ego | The Block | 1 | 6b |
14 |
She's Going Down | The Block | 1 | 6b+ |
15 |
Listing Badly | The Block | 1 | 6c+ |
16 |
I'm Doing it Anyway | The Block | 1 | 4a |
17 |
Hate the Sin and Love the Sinner | The Block | 5c | |
1 |
The Banishment of Eve | The Block - Seaward Face | 1 | VS 5a |
2 |
Another Stone on the Pile of Choss | The Block - Seaward Face | 1 | 7a |
3 |
Welcome to the Gravity Program | The Block - Seaward Face | 6c | |
4 |
The Trouser Incident | The Block - Seaward Face | HVS 5a | |
5 |
Diamonds and Rust | The Block - Seaward Face | 6b | |
6 |
Reach Out | The Block - Seaward Face | 5b | |
7 |
She's Dancing Tonight | The Block - Seaward Face | 1 | 5a |
8 |
Small is Beautiful | The Block - Seaward Face | 6b | |
9 |
Tiny Goddess | The Block - Seaward Face | 1 | 5c |
1 |
Unload the Fun Bags | The Attic and The Balcony | 6b+ | |
2 |
It's all a Bunch of Tree Hugging Hippie Crap | The Attic and The Balcony | 5c | |
3 |
Jurassic Bark | The Attic and The Balcony | 1 | 6c+ |
4 |
High Flyer | The Attic and The Balcony | 6b | |
5 |
Lola | The Attic and The Balcony | 5a | |
6 |
Pretty Flamingo | The Attic and The Balcony | 6a+ | |
7 |
A Groovy Kind of Love | The Attic and The Balcony | 6c | |
8 |
Itchycoo Park | The Attic and The Balcony | 6c+ | |
9 |
Spear of Destiny | The Attic and The Balcony | 5c | |
10 |
Spear of Broccoli | The Attic and The Balcony | 5c | |
11 |
Heart of the Sun | The Attic and The Balcony | 6a | |
1 |
Dr. Sole and Mr. Sole | The Veranda | 3c | |
2 |
Never Lead a Numb Existence | The Veranda | 4a | |
3 |
Phil's Route | The Veranda | 1 | 4a |
4 |
Days of Heaven | The Veranda | 4c | |
5 |
Love on the Rocks ;) | The Veranda | 1 | 5a |
6 |
Absent Friends, Here's to Them | The Veranda | 5c | |
7 |
Limestone Cowboy | The Veranda | 1 | 4c |
8 |
One Flew Out of the Cuckoo's Nest | The Veranda | 1 | 5c |
9 |
When You Were Little You Dreamed You Were Big | The Veranda | 1 | 6b+ |
10 |
Hanging Out with Halo Jones | The Veranda | 1 | 6a |
11 |
I Get High With A Little Help From My Friends | The Veranda | 1 | 5a |
12 |
Cat Juggling | The Veranda | 4c | |
13 |
Thin on Top | The Veranda | 6b+ | |
14 |
Samphire and Steel | The Veranda | 5a | |
15 |
More Soap, Less Shampoo | The Veranda | 4c | |
16 |
Lazy Robs and Frightful Lobs | The Veranda | 5c | |
1 |
A Compromise That Satisfies Nobody | Brontosaurus Wall | 3b | |
2 |
Dust, Sweat and Beers | Brontosaurus Wall | 4a | |
3 |
Cosmic Brontosaurus | Brontosaurus Wall | 5a | |
4 |
Cheers Neil | Brontosaurus Wall | 5b | |
5 |
Inverted Goat | Brontosaurus Wall | 5b | |
6 |
Bucking Bronto | Brontosaurus Wall | 4b |
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