The northern portion of Wallsend Cove is a diverse area with climbs that cater for all, ranging from some tough outcrop style lines on super solid stone to remote feeling adventures on big faces and at times less reliable rock. Wallsend Cove in its entirety is a huge arc of cliff and its northern portion is the least frequented climbing venue on Portland\'s west coast, even though it has some of its better climbs dotted along its 400m of cliff line. Wallsend North has always been plagued by small landslips on top of the crag and when these occur they leave a trail of mud over the faces directly below that can persist for sometime. However both the Unsung and Sweet Smell of Success Areas are stable and provide some great climbing and make a good starting point for those looking to explore this area.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Left Little Slapper | So Hardcore Area | 7b+ | |
2 |
Right Little Slapper | So Hardcore Area | 7a+ | |
3 |
Short Slutty Slab | So Hardcore Area | 1 | 6b |
4 |
The Black Vegetable | So Hardcore Area | 1 | 5c |
5 |
The Dogging Spot | So Hardcore Area | 6c | |
6 |
Pearl Necklace | So Hardcore Area | 6b | |
7 |
Passing Bi | So Hardcore Area | 6a+ | |
8 |
One Bolt Ward | So Hardcore Area | 7b | |
9 |
They Walked in Line | So Hardcore Area | 1 | 7b |
10 |
So Hardcore | So Hardcore Area | 1 | 7c |
11 |
Layback Chimney | So Hardcore Area | HS 4b | |
12 |
Love Song | So Hardcore Area | 6a | |
13 |
Faith, Hop and Charity | So Hardcore Area | 1 | 6a |
14 |
Short 'n' Sexy | So Hardcore Area | 1 | 6a |
15 |
Riding the Dinosaur | So Hardcore Area | 2c | |
16 |
Wish You Were Here | So Hardcore Area | 4c | |
17 |
Bright as a Box of Birds | So Hardcore Area | 6a | |
18 |
Where Did It All Go Right? | So Hardcore Area | 6a+ | |
1 |
Updraft | Unsung Area | 5a | |
2 |
The Gods Are Angry | Unsung Area | 4c | |
3 |
Summer Lightning | Unsung Area | 1 | 6b+ |
4 |
Here Comes The Rain Again | Unsung Area | 5c | |
5 |
Captain's Log | Unsung Area | 6b+ | |
6 |
Voracious Animal of the Weasel Family | Unsung Area | 3b | |
7 |
The Sixteen Dollar Man | Unsung Area | 6b+ | |
8 |
Heart Stoppingly Brutal | Unsung Area | 1 | 4c |
9 |
Dodo's Delight | Unsung Area | 1 | 6b |
10 |
RP Screamers | Unsung Area | 1 | 7a |
11 |
Alpenglow | Unsung Area | 2 | 7a+ |
12 |
Topsy Turvy Land | Unsung Area | 2 | 7b |
13 |
Weakest to the Wall | Unsung Area | 2 | 7b |
14 |
The Magnificent 7 | Unsung Area | 2 | 7b+ |
15 |
Compromise | Unsung Area | 7b+ | |
16 |
Resisting Mutiny | Unsung Area | 1 | 7c+ |
17 |
The Right Mix | Unsung Area | 2 | 7a+ |
18 |
Portsea Road | Unsung Area | 1 | 7a |
19 |
Never Lose that Feeling | Unsung Area | 1 | 6b |
20 |
Sing Something Simple | Unsung Area | 6c+ | |
21 |
Unsung | Unsung Area | 1 | 6b |
22 |
Come In Alone, Go Out Alone | Unsung Area | 1 | 6b |
23 |
Dodo's Revenge | Unsung Area | 2 | 7a |
24 |
No Soft Option | Unsung Area | 1 | 7b |
25 |
Dial-a-Cliché | Unsung Area | 1 | 6c+ |
26 |
The Web | Unsung Area | 6b | |
27 |
Can't Stop the Bosch | Unsung Area | 6b+ | |
28 |
Smug Mode Enabled | Unsung Area | 6b | |
29 |
Mr Angry | Unsung Area | VS 4b | |
30 |
Twistin' My Melon Man | Unsung Area | E2 6a | |
31 |
Sergeant Ford's Roving Truncheon | Unsung Area | E3 6a | |
1 |
Memories from the Fort | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 6c+ |
2 |
Screaming Toilet Fish | Acid Jazz Area | E1 5c | |
3 |
The Price of Potatoes | Acid Jazz Area | HVS 5a | |
4 |
The Contortionist | Acid Jazz Area | 7a+ | |
5 |
Sniper in the Brain | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 7a |
6 |
Holding the Zero | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 7a |
7 |
Stay on Target | Acid Jazz Area | 7a | |
8 |
Dead Man's Click | Acid Jazz Area | 7a | |
9 |
Eternity's Toothpaste | Acid Jazz Area | VS 4c | |
10 |
Old Painless | Acid Jazz Area | 7a+ | |
11 |
Useless Generation | Acid Jazz Area | 2 | 7b |
12 |
My Love of this Land | Acid Jazz Area | 2 | 7b |
13 |
Treachery | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 7a+ |
14 |
Going Blank Again | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 7b |
15 |
The Treacle Factory | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 6a+ |
16 |
Alberta Balsam | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 7a |
17 |
Montreal Protocol | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 7b |
18 |
Cosa Nostra | Acid Jazz Area | 1 | 6a+ |
19 |
Acid Jazz Disco | Acid Jazz Area | 3 | 7a |
20 |
Eight-Bar Blues | Acid Jazz Area | 2 | 6c+ |
1 |
Precious to the Last | Teenage Lust Area | 1 | 7c |
2 |
Ecstasy | Teenage Lust Area | 1 | 7a+ |
3 |
Live Now, Pay Later | Teenage Lust Area | 1 | 7a+ |
4 |
John Craven's Jumper Contest | Teenage Lust Area | 1 | 6c |
5 |
The Watchmaker's Hands | Teenage Lust Area | 2 | 7c |
6 |
Breakfast of Champions | Teenage Lust Area | 2 | 7b+ |
7 |
Youth Body Expression Explosion | Teenage Lust Area | 1 | 7b |
8 |
To Hungary For Love | Teenage Lust Area | 2 | 8a |
9 |
So Shoot Me | Teenage Lust Area | 1 | 7a+ |
10 |
Lolita | Teenage Lust Area | 2 | 7b+ |
11 |
Teenage Lust | Teenage Lust Area | 2 | 7b+ |
1 |
Up the Apples and Pears | Seaside Slab | 2c | |
2 |
Sylvia Sunset | Seaside Slab | 2c | |
3 |
Magnum Farce | Seaside Slab | 2c | |
4 |
Easy Like a Sunday Morning | Seaside Slab | 2c | |
1 |
Miss Jones | The Rampart | 3c | |
2 |
Ledge Shuffler's Delight | The Rampart | 1 | 6c |
3 |
Guardians of Fate | The Rampart | 5c | |
4 |
The Highwayman | The Rampart | 6b | |
5 |
Winter is the New Summer | The Rampart | 6b+ | |
6 |
Band of Pain | The Rampart | 7a+ | |
7 |
Excerpt from a Teenage Opera | The Rampart | 6a | |
8 |
Like Tears in Rain | The Rampart | 6c | |
9 |
A Whiter Shade of Pale | The Rampart | 6c | |
10 |
Love Street | The Rampart | 7a | |
11 |
The Crystal Ship | The Rampart | 1 | 6a |
12 |
Waiting for the Sun | The Rampart | 1 | 6a |
13 |
Black Slab | The Rampart | 6b+ | |
14 |
Justin Credible | The Rampart | 6a | |
15 |
The Devil Came Down to Portland | The Rampart | 6b+ | |
1 |
My Dog's Got Fleas | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 7b+ |
2 |
Poop Scoop | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 6c |
3 |
Yikes Shaggy | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 1 | 6c |
4 |
Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 1 | 6a |
5 |
Scoobydoobydoo | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 6b |
6 |
Scooby Snacks | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 7a |
7 |
The Craic | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 1 | 6a |
8 |
Breakfast at Wendy's | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 6a | |
9 |
The Heanous Quest | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 6a+ | |
10 |
Hen's Tooth | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 7b | |
11 |
Sang Froid | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 7c |
12 |
So You Want to Be Happy | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 7a+ | |
13 |
Up on the Hill | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 1 | 7a |
14 |
Hallelujah | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 1 | 7a |
15 |
Old Speckled Hen | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 1 | 7a |
16 |
Stone Cold Sober | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 7b |
17 |
Stay Golden | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 3 | 7b |
18 |
Sweet Smell of Success | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 3 | 7b |
19 |
Frazzled | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 7b |
20 |
Streaky | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 2 | 6c+ |
21 |
Das Boot | Sweet Smell of Success Area | 6c+ | |
1 |
Falling with Style | Bladerunner Area | 6b+ | |
2 |
Screw You Hippy | Bladerunner Area | 6a | |
3 |
Tanya's Sex Pot | Bladerunner Area | 6a+ | |
4 |
Gay Dog | Bladerunner Area | 6a+ | |
5 |
Layback and Take It | Bladerunner Area | 6a | |
6 |
Blackwind, Fire and Steel | Bladerunner Area | 6b+ | |
7 |
Beefcake, Beefcake | Bladerunner Area | 6a | |
8 |
Jungle Drums | Bladerunner Area | 6c+ | |
9 |
Aaron the Aardvark | Bladerunner Area | 1 | 6b+ |
10 |
Bladerunner | Bladerunner Area | 2 | 6b+ |
1 |
Fatal Fibre | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 6c+ |
2 |
Billy Bob's Way | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 6b+ |
3 |
The Man Who Wasn't There | Downhill Spiral Area | 7b | |
4 |
Hate Crime | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 7a+ |
5 |
Lefty Hoot 'n' Annie | Downhill Spiral Area | 2 | 6c |
6 |
And the Boat Sails By | Downhill Spiral Area | 7a | |
7 |
Downhill Spiral | Downhill Spiral Area | 2 | 7b+ |
8 |
Everything's Eventual | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 6c+ |
9 |
By Mistake | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 7b+ |
10 |
More Than a Legend | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 7b+ |
11 |
Under Crimson Skies | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 7a+ |
12 |
My Figure Head | Downhill Spiral Area | 6c | |
13 |
The Shipping News | Downhill Spiral Area | 7b | |
14 |
Five Easy Pieces | Downhill Spiral Area | 6c | |
15 |
Laid Black | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 6c+ |
16 |
Wonderful | Downhill Spiral Area | 2 | 7a+ |
17 |
Wonder-Bra | Downhill Spiral Area | 1 | 6b |
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