The southern arc of Wallsend Cove is dominated by an impressive palisade of huge walls that drop to sea level ledges and boulders that, for the most part protect the starts of the climbs from the sea, but do nothing to detract from the fact that this is very much a seacliff. Quality pitches abound on the Trad Free World and Realm of Chaos areas and when in good condition the climbing and location is some of the best to be found in Dorset.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Slice of Life | The Bigger Piece Area | 1 | 6b |
2 |
The Bigger Piece | The Bigger Piece Area | 2 | 7a+ |
3 |
No Place for Mambas | The Bigger Piece Area | 3 | 6b |
4 |
Opposites Attract | The Bigger Piece Area | 3 | 6c |
5 |
Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers | The Bigger Piece Area | 1 | 6b+ |
6 |
Cool to be Uncool | The Bigger Piece Area | 1 | 7b+ |
7 |
Coconut Milk | The Bigger Piece Area | 2 | 7a+ |
8 |
On a Desert Island Beach | The Bigger Piece Area | 2 | 7a+ |
9 |
Vin Chaud | The Bigger Piece Area | 2 | 7a |
10 |
Accordions Go Crazy | The Bigger Piece Area | 2 | 6b+ |
11 |
Basrah Blues Band | The Bigger Piece Area | 1 | 6c |
12 |
Laughing Peter | The Bigger Piece Area | 2 | 7a+ |
13 |
Sans Frontière | The Bigger Piece Area | 1 | 6b+ |
14 |
Charlton Mackeral, the World's Strongest Fish | The Bigger Piece Area | 6c | |
1 |
Parkhurst Dozen | Mr. Natural Area | 6c | |
2 |
Sang Chaud | Mr. Natural Area | 3 | 7a+ |
3 |
Son of Mustang Ford | Mr. Natural Area | 1 | 7a |
4 |
Mr. Natural | Mr. Natural Area | 2 | 7b+ |
5 |
Catatonic | Mr. Natural Area | 6b+ | |
6 |
Random Texter | Mr. Natural Area | 6b+ | |
7 |
Gravity Epiphany | Mr. Natural Area | 6c+ | |
8 |
Family S | Mr. Natural Area | VS | |
9 |
Moan, Moan, Moan | Mr. Natural Area | 1 | 7b+ |
10 |
Injury Encyclopaedia | Mr. Natural Area | 1 | 7b |
1 |
Will | Realm of Chaos Area | 7b | |
2 |
Michèle | Realm of Chaos Area | 6a+ | |
3 |
Shape of Tomorrow | Realm of Chaos Area | 6c | |
4 |
River of Dreams | Realm of Chaos Area | 7a | |
5 |
Spinal Tap | Realm of Chaos Area | 1 | 7b+ |
6 |
Cloud Atlas | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b+ |
7 |
Million Watt Marshalls | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b+ |
8 |
Ariane V | Realm of Chaos Area | 3 | 7b |
9 |
Disintegration | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b+ |
10 |
Zum Zeaux | Realm of Chaos Area | 3 | 7b+ |
11 |
Magnetic Pull | Realm of Chaos Area | 3 | 8a |
12 |
Realm of Chaos | Realm of Chaos Area | 3 | 7b+ |
13 |
Hombre Solaire | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7c |
14 |
Face the Truth | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7c |
15 |
A Shadow on Mankind | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b+ |
16 |
Saskatchewan Uranium Miner | Realm of Chaos Area | 3 | 7c |
17 |
Troll Team Special | Realm of Chaos Area | 3 | 7a+ |
18 |
The Pickford Files | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b+ |
19 |
Breakbeat | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b+ |
20 |
The Mask | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b |
21 |
Trent Reznor | Realm of Chaos Area | 2 | 7b+ |
22 |
Kraken | Realm of Chaos Area | HVS | |
23 |
Bevis | Realm of Chaos Area | 6b | |
24 |
Moonfleet | Realm of Chaos Area | 6b+ | |
25 |
Divine Madness | Realm of Chaos Area | E1 5b | |
26 |
Gossip and Drool | Realm of Chaos Area | 1 | 7b |
27 |
Heat Stroke Groove | Realm of Chaos Area | 1 | 6c+ |
28 |
Summer Babe | Realm of Chaos Area | 1 | 7b+ |
1 |
Eternal Peace | The Enchanted Path Area | 6c | |
2 |
Dark Play | The Enchanted Path Area | 6b | |
3 |
Lacerations | The Enchanted Path Area | VS | |
4 |
The Bog Man | The Enchanted Path Area | 6b+ | |
5 |
Garstang | The Enchanted Path Area | 6c+ | |
6 |
Shibumi | The Enchanted Path Area | 1 | 7a |
7 |
Boulder Crack | The Enchanted Path Area | HVS 5a | |
8 |
Slave State | The Enchanted Path Area | 2 | 7b+ |
9 |
Ferocity | The Enchanted Path Area | VS 4c | |
10 |
Child of Light | The Enchanted Path Area | 1 | 6c+ |
11 |
Immaculata | The Enchanted Path Area | 2 | 6c |
12 |
The Watchman | The Enchanted Path Area | 3 | 6b |
13 |
Waiting for the Barbarians | The Enchanted Path Area | 2 | 6b+ |
14 |
Peace in the Nineties | The Enchanted Path Area | 1 | 6b+ |
15 |
Some Velvet Morning | The Enchanted Path Area | 1 | 7a |
16 |
The Enchanted Path | The Enchanted Path Area | 2 | 6c |
17 |
Once Upon a Time in The West | The Enchanted Path Area | 2 | 6c |
18 |
Best Fingers Forward | The Enchanted Path Area | 3 | 6c+ |
19 |
Blue Faced Booby | The Enchanted Path Area | 2 | 6c |
20 |
Wallsend Wall | The Enchanted Path Area | E1 | |
1 |
The Gash | Trad Free World Area | VS 4c | |
2 |
Tea Cakes Calling | Trad Free World Area | 1 | 7a |
3 |
The Jewel of the Isle | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 6b+ |
4 |
Stalker's Zone | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 6a+ |
5 |
Trad Free World | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 6b |
6 |
Genuflection | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 7b |
7 |
Reverence | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 7a+ |
8 |
Outside the Gate | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 7b |
9 |
Halfway to Heaven | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 7b |
10 |
Straight to Hell | Trad Free World Area | 2 | 7b+ |
11 |
Organic Snail Farming | Trad Free World Area | 2 | 7b |
12 |
Wave Graffiti | Trad Free World Area | 2 | 7b+ |
13 |
Hawaiian Pipeline | Trad Free World Area | 3 | 7b |
14 |
Running Down a Dream | Trad Free World Area | 2 | 7b |
15 |
My Two Left Feet | Trad Free World Area | 1 | 7c+ |
16 |
Bob's Gold Run | Trad Free World Area | 2 | 7a+ |
17 |
McKenna's Cleft | Trad Free World Area | VS 4c | |
1 |
Queen of a Distant Country | Colors Area | 6b+ | |
2 |
Delta of Venus | Colors Area | 6b+ | |
3 |
Fleshworld | Colors Area | 1 | 7b+ |
4 |
Colors | Colors Area | 3 | 7b+ |
5 |
Olympus Mons | Colors Area | 2 | 7b |
6 |
White Unconquerable | Colors Area | 6b+ | |
7 |
Gedge | Colors Area | 6b+ | |
8 |
Black'll do Nicely | Colors Area | 1 | 7a+ |
9 |
The Worm | Colors Area | VS | |
10 |
The Empire State Arete | Colors Area | 2 | 6b+ |
11 |
Dogtown Skate Team | Colors Area | 2 | 7b |
12 |
Rush | Colors Area | 2 | 7c |
13 |
Beautiful South | Colors Area | 2 | 7c+ |
14 |
Tarquill's Trollies | Colors Area | 1 | |
15 |
Flipper's Revenge | Colors Area | 1 | 7b |
16 |
Walking on Sunshine | Colors Area | 3 | |
17 |
No Victory In Europe | Colors Area | 6c | |
1 |
Sea Saga | Hong Kong Phooey Area | HVS 5a | |
2 |
Critical Mass | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6b |
3 |
Rapid Response | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 7a |
4 |
Chert Noble | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 7a+ |
5 |
End of the Pier | Hong Kong Phooey Area | E2 5a | |
6 |
Face in the Chert | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 6a | |
7 |
Glamour Cat | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 2 | 6b |
8 |
1789 | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 2 | 7a |
9 |
The Bad Seeds | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 3 | 7b |
10 |
Magical Mr. Mephistopheles | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 2 | 6c |
11 |
Clacichew | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6b |
12 |
Calcite Compliment | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6c |
13 |
Jazz It Up | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 7a+ |
14 |
Razzamatazz | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 7b |
15 |
We are Stardust | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 4a | |
16 |
We are Golden | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 6a+ | |
17 |
Stylus | Hong Kong Phooey Area | HVS 5a | |
18 |
The Great Pretender | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6c+ |
19 |
After the Gold Rush | Hong Kong Phooey Area | E2 5c | |
20 |
Totally FOO to You | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6c |
21 |
A Perfect Afternoon | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6b+ |
22 |
Half-Way House | Hong Kong Phooey Area | HS 4a | |
23 |
Tunnel Vision | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 2 | 7b+ |
24 |
Hong Kong Phooey | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 2 | 7c |
25 |
Doolittle | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 2 | 6b+ |
26 |
Jane Says | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6b+ |
27 |
Relax | Hong Kong Phooey Area | 1 | 6b+ |
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