Tryfan

Tryfan is one of the most iconic mountains in Snowdonia and a home to many classic routes which continue to attract novice and expert alike. Whether it is your first lead on Little Tryfan or the Milestone Buttress, or a big easy Alpine day on Grooved Arete, these are routes to enjoy and will be remembered for years to come. The routes covered in this chapter are on opposite sides of the main bulk of Tryfan. The lowest crag of Little Tryfan faces west and is quick and easy to get to, offering an excellent beginners\' slab for practising multi-pitch leading.The massive East Face presents a majestic but rambling mountainside which is clearly visible when travelling along the valley from Capel Curig. The routes start high up on Heather Terrace which is quite a hike to start the day with and already halfway up the mountain. The routes tend to sew together quality sections of rock with the odd scramble and ledge walk, but most finish pretty much on the top of Tryfan giving a real summit experience. On the other side of the mountain is Milestone Buttress, home to some classic easy routes plus a small number in the mid-grades. For slightly harder routes, head to the Bochlwyd Buttress, where the rock is steeper and more demanding.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Little Tryfan Arete Little Tryfan 2 Diff
2
Crack 1 Little Tryfan 1 Diff
3
Crack 2 Little Tryfan 1 Diff
4
Crack 3 Little Tryfan 1 Diff
5
Slab 1 Little Tryfan 1 VD
6
Slab 2 Little Tryfan 1 S 4a
7
Crack 4 Little Tryfan 1 Diff
8
Chimney Crack Little Tryfan 1 M
9
Left-hand Slab Route Little Tryfan Diff
10
Central Slab Route Little Tryfan 1 VD
11
Right Rib Little Tryfan 1 S 4a
12
Second Chimney Crack Little Tryfan 1 Grade-2
13
Left Edge Route Little Tryfan 2 VD
14
Stepped Crack Little Tryfan 2 Diff
15
Mossy Slab Little Tryfan 1 HVD
16
Overlap Slab Little Tryfan 1 HVD
17
Zig-Zag Little Tryfan M
18
Right Edge Little Tryfan 1 M
1
South Buttress East Face 2 Grade-3
2
Arete Climb East Face 2 S
3
Gashed Crag East Face 2 VD
4
Munich Climb East Face 2 HVS 5a
5
South Gully East Face 1 Grade-3
6
Pinnacle Rib Variant East Face 3 M
7
Overlapping Ridge Route East Face 2 Diff
8
Pinnacle Rib Route East Face 3 Diff
9
Little and North Gullies East Face 2 Grade-1
10
North Buttress East Face 2 VD
11
The North Buttress Variant East Face 2 Grade-3
12
Belle Vue Bastion East Face 2 VS 4c
13
Grooved Arete East Face 3 HVD 4a
14
Nor' Nor' Groove East Face 2 Grade-2
15
Nor' Nor Buttress Variant East Face 3 Grade-3
16
Bastow Buttress Variant East Face 3 Grade-3
1
The North Ridge of Tryfan Tryfan North Ridge 3 Grade-1
1
Boot Crack Milestone Buttress - Soapgut 1 HVS 5a
2
Crazy Horse Milestone Buttress - Soapgut 2 E3 6a
3
Soapgut/Chimney Route Milestone Buttress - Soapgut 2 HS 4b
4
Soapgut Crack and Rib Milestone Buttress - Soapgut 2 E1 5b
5
The Wrinkled Retainer Milestone Buttress - Soapgut 3 E5 6c
6
The Ambassador Milestone Buttress - Soapgut 3 E8 7a
7
Crosscut Milestone Buttress - Soapgut 2 E2 5b
1
Ordinary Route Milestone Buttress - Direct Route 2 Diff
2
Super Direct Milestone Buttress - Direct Route 3 HVS 5a
3
Direct Route Milestone Buttress - Direct Route 3 HVD
4
Rowan Route Milestone Buttress - Direct Route 2 Diff
5
Milestone Approach Milestone Buttress - Direct Route 2 Grade-3
6
Pulpit Route/Ivy Chimney Milestone Buttress - Direct Route 2 VD
7
Milestone Approach Gully Milestone Buttress - Direct Route 2 Grade-2
1
Milestone Continuation West Face 2 Grade-3
2
Wrinkled Tower West Face 3 M
3
West Face Route West Face 1 Grade-3
4
V Buttress West Face 2 Grade-3
5
V Arete West Face 1 Grade-3
6
Y Gully West Face 1 Grade-2
7
Notch Arete West Face 3 Grade-3
1
Wall Climb Bochlwyd Buttress 1 HS 4b
2
Bochlwyd Eliminate Bochlwyd Buttress 2 HVS 5a
3
The Wrack Bochlwyd Buttress 2 E2 5b
4
Chimney Climb Bochlwyd Buttress 1 S
5
Two Pitch Route Bochlwyd Buttress 1 S
6
Five Pitch Route Bochlwyd Buttress 1 S 4b
7
Marble Slab Bochlwyd Buttress 2 HS 4b
8
Arete and Slab Bochlwyd Buttress 1 VD

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