Carved out of the compact granite of Bodmin Moor, Cheesewring Quarry has for decades been one of Cornish climbing's forcing grounds. Its development has kept up with the grades of nearby Devon's sport climbs and has provided a good spread of tough trad pitches that compliment those of Cornwall's sea-cliffs. The strange gravity-defying Cheesewring itself peers down over the edge of the quarry, taking in the view of the walls that for the first time visitor can be a bit of a revelation, being both extensive and up to around 30m in height. The style of the climbing is often very specific, the nature of the quarried rock giving little in the way of intermediate holds that might take the sting out of the moves. As a consequence the climbing feels tougher that on the natural granite in the region. Nevertheless, the climbs are excellent and the spread of both trad and sport climbs is such that most tastes will be catered for.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Double Agent | Western Outcrop | 2 | 7a+ |
2 |
Agent Provocateur | Western Outcrop | 1 | 7b |
3 |
Potential Energy | Western Outcrop | 1 | 6c+ |
4 |
Trouble with Lichen | Western Outcrop | 2 | E3 6a |
5 |
Central Route | Western Outcrop | 1 | VS 4c |
6 |
Direct Route | Western Outcrop | 1 | VS 4a |
1 |
The Purple Revrac | Main Wall | 1 | HS 4b |
2 |
Rampage | Main Wall | 3 | 7b |
3 |
Simanon Direct | Main Wall | 2 | HVS 4c |
4 |
Eyefull Tower | Main Wall | 3 | E2 6a |
5 |
High Noon/Mauritius | Main Wall | 3 | E3 6a |
6 |
Psychokiller | Main Wall | 3 | 7c+ |
7 |
Warrior | Main Wall | 2 | 6c |
8 |
Khyber Wall | Main Wall | 2 | E2 5c |
9 |
Juliet's Balcony | Main Wall | 1 | HVS 5a |
10 |
Peter | Main Wall | 1 | VD |
11 |
Figuzzi | Main Wall | 2 | HS 4b |
12 |
Star Fox | Main Wall | 1 | HVS 5a |
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