Avon Gorge

The huge winding gash of the Avon Gorge holds the UK's biggest and best urban crag. Brunel's famous suspension bridge spans the gorge, providing a magnificent backdrop to the climbing and, even though the cliffs are blighted by traffic noise, the climbing experience is memorable. The crags rise to around 70 metres and for the most part are composed of high quality quarried limestone, the one exception being the grand natural buttress beneath the suspension bridge itself. The Gorge is basically a traditional venue and caters for most tastes and abilities, offering single and multi-pitch climbs throughout the grade range. Each of the cliffs has a distinct style. The compact and quarried nature of the Sea Walls and Main Wall take a bit of getting used to, their profusion of flat or sloping holds and often-spaced protection exercising the mind as much as the body. In contrast the Suspension Bridge Buttress and Unknown Area offer a more conventional limestone experience with better protection possibilities and generally steeper faces. Access to the Gorge and its climbing is simple and for the travelling visitor makes a convenient stop-off on the way to, or return from, locations deeper into the West Country.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Desecrator Unknown Wall 1 HVS 5a
2
The Blik Unknown Wall 2 E3 5b
3
Unknown Wall Unknown Wall 2 VS 4c
4
Amanita Muscarina Unknown Wall 3 E4 6a
5
Yellow Edge Unknown Wall 3 E3 5c
6
New Horizons Unknown Wall 2 E3 5c
7
Hocus Pocus Unknown Wall 2 E4 6a
8
M1 Unknown Wall 2 E1 5b
9
Ladder of Desire Unknown Wall 3 E3 5c
10
Them Unknown Wall 3 E3 6a
11
New Horizons II Unknown Wall 2 E2 5c
12
Mirage Unknown Wall 2 E3 6a
13
Arms Race Unknown Wall 3 E4 5c
14
Low Profile Unknown Wall 3 E5 6b
15
Rancho Cucamonga Unknown Wall 1 E3 5c
16
Banshee Unknown Wall 1 E2 5c
1
Gronk Sea Walls 2 VS 4c
2
Morpheus Sea Walls 2 HVD
3
Sleepwalk Sea Walls 2 S 4a
4
Ffoeg's Folly Sea Walls 2 E2 5c
5
Last Slip Sea Walls 3 E3 5c
6
Nightmare Sea Walls 2 S 4a
7
Edgemaster Sea Walls 3 E6 6b
8
Padansac Sea Walls 2 E2 5c
9
Simian Sea Walls 1 HVS 5a
10
Daydream Sea Walls 1 VS 5a
11
Idleburger Buttress Sea Walls 1 VD
12
Floating Voter Sea Walls 1 VS 4c
13
Jasper Sea Walls 1 HVS 5b
1
Men Talking Goats New Quarry Sport 5c
2
Skulking Agent New Quarry Sport 1 7a+
3
Bulking Agent New Quarry Sport 1 7b+
4
Bitter and Twisted New Quarry Sport 1 7a+
5
Dinosaur Beach New Quarry Sport 1 6b+
6
Jurassic Lark New Quarry Sport 1 6b+
7
Zildjan Direct New Quarry Sport 1 7b
8
Paiste 2002 New Quarry Sport 1 7a
9
Cymbeline New Quarry Sport 1 6c+
10
Full Metal Cymbal New Quarry Sport 1 6b+
11
Brutal Dub New Quarry Sport 2 6c+
12
Ready and Waiting New Quarry Sport 2 7a+
13
The Fury New Quarry Sport 1 7b
14
A Drop in the Ocean of Decay New Quarry Sport 1 6c+
15
Bushmen Don't Surf New Quarry Sport 2 6b
16
Bushmen... (Chepstow Zombie Finish) New Quarry Sport 3 6b+
17
No Crag for Old Men New Quarry Sport 2 6b
18
No CSC New Quarry Sport 2 6b
19
En Trend New Quarry Sport 2 6b
20
Stammheim New Quarry Sport 2 6b
21
God New Quarry Sport 1 6c
1
Choker Main Wall - Lich Area 2 E1 5a
2
The Corpse Main Wall - Lich Area 2 HVS 5a
3
Zombogies Direct Main Wall - Lich Area 2 E1 5b
4
The Lich Main Wall - Lich Area 2 HVS 5a
5
Bonbogies Main Wall - Lich Area 2 HVS 5a
1
Pink Ginsane Main Wall - Malbogies Area 3 E6 6b
2
Think Pink Main Wall - Malbogies Area 3 E3 6a
3
Krapp's Last Tape Main Wall - Malbogies Area 3 E3 5b
4
Main Wall Eliminate Main Wall - Malbogies Area 2 E4 6a
5
Malbogies Main Wall - Malbogies Area 3 HVS 5a
6
Central Wall Main Wall - Malbogies Area 3 E4 6a
7
The Preter Main Wall - Malbogies Area 3 E2 5b
1
Dawn Walk Main Wall - Pink Wall 1 S 4a
2
Lich Gates Main Wall - Pink Wall 3 E2 5c
3
Peryl Main Wall - Pink Wall 3 E4 6a
4
Changeling Main Wall - Pink Wall 3 E5 6b
5
Pink Wall Direct Main Wall - Pink Wall 2 E2 5c
6
Pink Wall Traverse Main Wall - Pink Wall 2 HVS 5a
1
Mike's Mistake Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 2 E1 5b
2
Clarion Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 2 VS 4c
3
Sinister Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 2 HS 4b
4
Dexter Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 1 HS 4b
5
The Arete Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 2 VD 4a
6
Bob's Climb Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 2 VD
7
Petros Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 2 VS 4c
8
Direct Route Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall 1 S 4a
9
Original Route Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall Diff
1
Central Rib Main Wall - Central Buttress 1 VS 4b
2
Great Central Route Main Wall - Central Buttress 3 HVS 5a
3
Piton Route Main Wall - Central Buttress 2 VS 4c
4
Central Buttress Main Wall - Central Buttress 3 E1 5a
1
Giant's Cave Buttress Giant's Cave Buttress 3 VS 4c
1
Suspension Bridge Arete Suspension Bridge Buttress 2 HVS 5a
2
Suspense Suspension Bridge Buttress 3 HVS 5a
3
Baby Duck Suspension Bridge Buttress 2 E1 5b
4
Limbo Suspension Bridge Buttress 3 E1 5b
5
GT Special Suspension Bridge Buttress 2 E4 6a
6
The Earl of Perth Suspension Bridge Buttress 3 E1 5b
7
Hell Gates Suspension Bridge Buttress 3 HVS 5a

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