The south-facing line of low limestone crags that stretch out into the Bristol Channel offer up some intriguing and esoteric climbs. Brean Down started its climbing life as an out-of-the-way trad venue but it has now become popular as a fine sport climbing location, tucked away on its own above a busy beach that looks out over extensive tidal flats. It is a suntrap that suffers from little seepage, and offers the chance of warm conditions even in the middle of winter. The sport climbs at Boulder Cove are very popular and are always chalked-up, whilst the trad climbs are far more serious undertakings and see little traffic and, as a result, have become slightly vegetated. The traditional lines require the use of stake-belays in the steep sandy slope above the crag.The limestone is not as reliable as that found elsewhere locally, and great care is needed with the placing of gear, and use of the sometimes-fragile holds. Having said this, the routes in this book are on the best rock at Brean Down.
| Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Do You Get Vouchers With This? | Boulder Cove | 5c | |
2 |
Brean Dream | Boulder Cove | 1 | 6b |
3 |
Kraken | Boulder Cove | 1 | 6b+ |
4 |
Bikini Atoll | Boulder Cove | 1 | 6c+ |
5 |
Coral Sea | Boulder Cove | 2 | 6c |
6 |
Chepito | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7a |
7 |
Pearl Harbour | Boulder Cove | 3 | 7a |
8 |
Tide Rising | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7b+ |
9 |
Three Snaps to Heaven | Boulder Cove | 1 | E6 6a |
10 |
A Heavy Read | Boulder Cove | 1 | 6b+ |
11 |
Torpedo | Boulder Cove | E2 5b | |
12 |
Achtung Torpedo! | Boulder Cove | E5 6b | |
13 |
Clashing Socks | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7b |
14 |
Kamikaze | Boulder Cove | 1 | E5 6b |
15 |
Black Snake Moan | Boulder Cove | 2 | 8a |
16 |
Brean Topping | Boulder Cove | 3 | 8b |
17 |
Chulilla | Boulder Cove | 3 | 7b+ |
18 |
Prisoner of Conscience | Boulder Cove | 1 | 7b+ |
19 |
The Guilt Edge | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7c |
20 |
Bullworker | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7c |
21 |
Bullfight | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7c+ |
22 |
Global Solutions | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7c |
23 |
El Chocco | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7c |
24 |
The Roof of Inequity | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7a+ |
25 |
Casino Royale | Boulder Cove | 2 | 7b+ |
26 |
Yer Yella! | Boulder Cove | 2 | E5 6a |
27 |
More of the Bravado | Boulder Cove | 1 | E5 6b |
28 |
Leaving Hanoi | Boulder Cove | 1 | 6c+ |
29 |
Leaving Aviva | Boulder Cove | 7a+ | |
30 |
What the Hell is a Womper? | Boulder Cove | 6b+ | |
1 |
I Dream of Kraken | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 1 | 6b |
2 |
Vets' Wall | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 1 | 7b |
3 |
I Dream of Brean | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 1 | 6b |
4 |
Chepito/Coral Sea Variant | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 1 | 7a+ |
5 |
Chepito Harbour | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 7a |
6 |
Rip tide | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 7a+ |
7 |
Sargasso Seamonster | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 1 | 7a+ |
8 |
The Manly Option | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 1 | 7c |
9 |
Anne Robinson, You Are The Weakest Link | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 1 | 7a |
10 |
Storm Warning | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 3 | 7c+ |
11 |
Storm Warning Variation | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 3 | 8a |
12 |
Snakes 'n' Wankers | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 8b |
13 |
Does Chuli Have a Conscience | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 7a+ |
14 |
Chuli Did It | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 7c |
15 |
Prisoner of Bullworker | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 7c+ |
16 |
Seismic Activity | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 7c |
17 |
Prisoner of Contrivance | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 3 | 8a |
18 |
The Milky Bar Kid | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 3 | 8a |
19 |
Prison Break | Boulder Cove - Link-ups | 2 | 6c+ |
1 |
Great Corner | Great Corner and Ocean Wall | 1 | E2 5a |
2 |
The Brean Machine | Great Corner and Ocean Wall | 2 | E5 6b |
3 |
Pandora's Box | Great Corner and Ocean Wall | 1 | VS 4c |
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