The massive yawning mouth of the Old Redoubt's Great Cave is one of the most intimidating sections of sea-cliff in the West Country; its tiered overhangs seemingly impossible to breakthrough. However, the rock is some of the most climbable to be found anywhere, and is peppered with jugs and handrails that allow the outrageous overhangs and walls to be scaled. The Old Redoubt holds some of the most sought-after long sea-cliff classics in the UK, but increasingly its flanking sea-level traverses, tackled as deep water solos, are catching up the popularity of the 'roped' routes. Should the sea-conditions or tides restrict access to the base of the Old Redoubt, the nearby Red Wall area offers some short, but pleasant pitches.
| Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Goddess of Gloom | The Old Redoubt | 2 | HVS 5a |
2 |
Moonraker | The Old Redoubt | 3 | HVS 5a |
3 |
Dreadnought | The Old Redoubt | 3 | E3 5c |
4 |
Seventh Dread | The Old Redoubt | 3 | E1 5b |
5 |
Savage Earthsea | The Old Redoubt | 3 | E6 6c |
6 |
Caveman | The Old Redoubt | 3 | E6 6b |
7 |
Yardarm | The Old Redoubt | 2 | E2 5b |
1 |
Magical Mystery Tour | Magical Mystery Tour | 3 | E1 5b |
1 |
Rainbow Bridge | Rainbow Bridge | 3 | E4 6b |
1 |
Abbot's Way | The Red Wall | 2 | HVS 5a |
2 |
Binky | The Red Wall | 2 | HS 4b |
3 |
Chastity Corner | The Red Wall | 1 | VS 4b |
4 |
Blood | The Red Wall | 2 | E1 5b |
Copyright © Rockfax