Lower Pen Trwyn

Lower Pen Trwyn (or LPT as it is affectionately known) is an awesome chunk of sea cliff, which has been at the forefront of cutting-edge sport climbing since the early 1980s. For hard sport this is one of the best venues in the country. The limestone is generally solid, clean and of the highest quality, particularly on the steep left-hand side. Condensed into this impressive bulge of orange and grey-streaked limestone are more than 20 routes of 8a and above. The central section is vertical and contains several immaculate and slightly more amenable face climbs. Some pleasant and popular easier routes can be found on the less fierce right-hand section. Because the crag is tidal, many of the wave-pounded starts are sharp and the first bolts (above high tide) can feel far above the ground, although the climbing is usually straightforward. A clip-stick is a good idea and a few wires are often useful to protect moves to the first bolt.


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