The Cattle Troughs is the collective name given to a series of cliffs that are populated with a lot of very good lower and mid-grade trad climbs. Most of the routes are relatively easy to reach and have generally sound rock, although gear can be a bit sparse on some climbs and it is a dangerous venue in rough, or even moderate, seas. The Hangover Area is popular with novices, beginners and teams after some good lower-grade trad outings, although for climbers looking for their first taste of Swanage trad climbing, Subluminal may be a better bet. The Unknown and Flake Ledges are very quiet venues that have a number of interesting and varied climbs spanning the grades and have separate abseil approaches. Amphitheatre Ledge Area is a very different proposition having a serious atmosphere, harder routes and is more akin to the Boulder Ruckle. The routes at Amphitheatre Ledge are predominately extreme trad adventures on reasonably good rock, although the finishes need careful planning.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jesus and Mary Chain | Unknown Ledge | 2 | E3 6a |
2 |
Fuel My Fire | Unknown Ledge | 3 | 8a+ |
3 |
The God Slot | Unknown Ledge | 2 | HVS 5a |
1 |
Dragon | Flake Ledge | 1 | E1 5a |
2 |
Damson | Flake Ledge | 2 | HVS 5a |
3 |
The Coral Prison | Flake Ledge | 2 | VS 4b |
4 |
Hell's Teeth | Flake Ledge | 1 | HVS 5a |
5 |
Moonstone | Flake Ledge | 1 | E1 5b |
6 |
Grottle | Flake Ledge | 2 | VD |
7 |
Lobster | Flake Ledge | 1 | HVS 5b |
8 |
Wessex Hangover | Flake Ledge | 2 | VS 4c |
1 |
Form a Queue | Hangover Area | 1 | VS 4c |
2 |
Scrambler's Wall | Hangover Area | VD | |
3 |
Inspiration | Hangover Area | 1 | S 4a |
4 |
Consolation | Hangover Area | HS 4a | |
5 |
Chockney | Hangover Area | 1 | VD 4a |
6 |
The Chimney | Hangover Area | 1 | VD |
7 |
The Chimney Direct Finish | Hangover Area | 1 | S 4a |
8 |
Hangover | Hangover Area | 1 | VS 5a |
9 |
Resurrection | Hangover Area | 1 | HS 4b |
10 |
Perfection | Hangover Area | 1 | S 4a |
11 |
Old Lag's Corner | Hangover Area | 1 | VS 4c |
12 |
Bunney's Wall Left-hand | Hangover Area | 1 | HVS 5b |
13 |
Bunney's Wall Flake Start | Hangover Area | 1 | VS 5b |
14 |
Bunney's Wall | Hangover Area | 2 | VS 5a |
1 |
Fallen Block Climb | Isis Area | 1 | VD |
2 |
Pulpit Route | Isis Area | 2 | Diff |
3 |
Ioma | Isis Area | 1 | VS 4c |
4 |
Kariate | Isis Area | E1 5b | |
5 |
Pearly Gate | Isis Area | 1 | E1 5b |
6 |
Eskimo Nell | Isis Area | 2 | E1 5b |
7 |
Isis | Isis Area | 2 | VS 4c |
8 |
Archangel | Isis Area | E3 6a | |
9 |
Peacemaker | Isis Area | 1 | E1 5b |
1 |
Varina | Amphitheatre Ledge | HS 4a | |
2 |
Uncry These Tears | Amphitheatre Ledge | 1 | E2 5c |
3 |
Solitude | Amphitheatre Ledge | 1 | VS 4b |
4 |
Atomic Road Hero | Amphitheatre Ledge | 2 | E5 6b |
5 |
Theory of Everything | Amphitheatre Ledge | 2 | E5 6b |
6 |
Zoolookologie | Amphitheatre Ledge | 3 | E5 6a |
7 |
In a Big Sky | Amphitheatre Ledge | 1 | E2 5c |
8 |
Land of the Leaning | Amphitheatre Ledge | 1 | E3 5c |
9 |
World in Action | Amphitheatre Ledge | 2 | E5 6b |
10 |
Arapiles Syndrome | Amphitheatre Ledge | 1 | E3 5b |
11 |
Pogor | Amphitheatre Ledge | E1 5b | |
12 |
Mr Ruckle | Amphitheatre Ledge | 1 | E1 5a |
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