This set of cliffs is perched on the very end of the Great Orme. The crags stretch west from just beyond the old lighthouse. In recent years they have seen much re-equipping and new development. This attention has resulted in the area becoming quite a popular venue, particularly on summer afternoons and evenings when the sun comes around onto the various faces. Although the majority of the climbing outlined here is bolt protected the trad climbing is also worth tracking down. The path from Observatory Buttress to the Enemy Walls is exposed and in places narrow, with a huge drop-off to seaward. Care needs to be taken at the base of the climbs to secure the belayer and prevent a \'one off all off situation\'!
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
I'm Spartacus | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 2 | 6c |
2 |
No, I'm Spartacus | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 2 | 6b+ |
3 |
Rachel | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 1 | 6a+ |
4 |
Gritstone Gorilla | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 3 | E3 5c |
5 |
Limestone Lemur | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 1 | E2 5c |
6 |
Fatty | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 1 | 7c+ |
7 |
Rest and Be Thankful | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 1 | 6b |
8 |
And All Hell Broke Loose | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 1 | 6b |
9 |
Pile Driver | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 1 | 6a+ |
10 |
Thank You Johnny | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | 1 | 6a+ |
11 |
The Strange Man | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E3 6a | |
12 |
The Corner | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | VS 4b | |
13 |
Ankle Attack | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E3 6a | |
14 |
Human Erosion | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | HVS 5a | |
15 |
Julie's Jump | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E3 6a | |
16 |
Chimney Crack | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | HS 4b | |
17 |
Noggin the Nog | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E1 5b | |
18 |
Paws | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E1 5b | |
19 |
Tales of Future Past | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E4 6c | |
20 |
Puerto Rican Harlem | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E4 6c | |
21 |
Gritsone Gorilla Direct | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E3 6a | |
22 |
Goliath | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E3 6a | |
23 |
Fool's Paradise | St Tudno's - Upper Tier | E2 5b | |
1 |
Space Hunter Variation | Teal Wall | 1 | E2 5b |
2 |
Terminal Breath | Teal Wall | 1 | E5 6b |
3 |
The Space Hunter | Teal Wall | E3 5c | |
4 |
Silent Voices | Teal Wall | 2 | E2 5c |
5 |
The Torch | Teal Wall | 2 | E4 6a |
6 |
The Teal | Teal Wall | 2 | E2 5c |
7 |
Opus Pistorum | Teal Wall | 2 | 7b+ |
8 |
The Tern | Teal Wall | 1 | 6c+ |
1 |
The Unforgiven | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 7a+ |
2 |
You Crack Me Up! (You Really Do!) | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 7a |
3 |
Crying in the Shadows | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6b |
4 |
A Nude Place to Creep | Observatory Buttress | 2 | 6b+ |
5 |
Watcher in the Woods | Observatory Buttress | 2 | 6c+ |
6 |
When the Lion Feeds | Observatory Buttress | 3 | 6c+ |
7 |
Life's a Joke | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 7a+ |
8 |
Grooved Arete | Observatory Buttress | 2 | 7b |
9 |
Wind and Worrying | Observatory Buttress | 2 | 6b |
10 |
Insanitarium | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6c+ |
11 |
Phasic | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
12 |
A Tale To Tell | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6b |
13 |
Elder Flower Wine | Observatory Buttress | 6b | |
14 |
Windy Miller | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
15 |
Emus in the Zone | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6c+ |
16 |
Alien Forces | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6c+ |
17 |
Old Skool | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
18 |
Klass Act | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6b |
19 |
Loaded Gun | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6b |
20 |
Fish, No Chips | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 7a+ |
21 |
Bad Sugar | Observatory Buttress | 2 | 6c+ |
22 |
Brass | Observatory Buttress | 2 | 7a |
23 |
Dead Boss | Observatory Buttress | 2 | 6c+ |
24 |
A Present From Dave | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6a+ |
25 |
Stiff End | Observatory Buttress | 1 | 6a+ |
1 |
Perilous Journey Direct | Central Buttress | 6b+ | |
2 |
Angel Cake | Central Buttress | 6b | |
3 |
Potato Famine | Central Buttress | 6c | |
4 |
Pedigree Syzygy | Central Buttress | 6b | |
5 |
Chicago | Central Buttress | 6a+ | |
6 |
Afternoon Delight | Central Buttress | 1 | 6a |
7 |
Sundowner | Central Buttress | 1 | 6a |
8 |
Woo Woo | Central Buttress | 1 | 6a+ |
9 |
Blue Lagoon | Central Buttress | 1 | 6b |
10 |
Goliath Direct | Central Buttress | 1 | 6b+ |
11 |
David | Central Buttress | 1 | 6b |
12 |
Blue Moon | Central Buttress | 2 | 6b |
13 |
Neon Noon | Central Buttress | 2 | 6b |
14 |
Sticky Mix | Central Buttress | 2 | 6b+ |
15 |
Rocky Road | Central Buttress | 3 | 7a |
16 |
Rough Rider | Central Buttress | 3 | 6b+ |
17 |
When the Lyon Sleeps | Central Buttress | 2 | 7c |
18 |
Old Guys Rule | Central Buttress | 2 | 7b |
19 |
Black Dahlia | Central Buttress | 2 | 6b+ |
20 |
True Mix | Central Buttress | 2 | 6b |
21 |
Black Iris | Central Buttress | 1 | 6b |
22 |
Black Orchid | Central Buttress | 1 | 6b |
23 |
Mel's Magic Carpet | Central Buttress | 1 | 6c |
1 |
Red Wine is My Kryptonite | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 7a+ |
2 |
You Don't Make Friends with Salad | The Enemy Walls | 7c | |
3 |
Back on Track | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 7a+ |
4 |
Flash - Pumped! | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 7a+ |
5 |
The Hand is Faster Than the Eye | The Enemy Walls | 7a+ | |
6 |
The Mysterium | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 7a+ |
7 |
Hokey Wokey Dokey | The Enemy Walls | 6b | |
8 |
Mrs. Warren's Profession | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 6c |
9 |
Irena Sendler | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 6c |
10 |
The Woke Brigade | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 6a+ |
11 |
Cancel Culture | The Enemy Walls | 1 | 6a+ |
12 |
Snowflake | The Enemy Walls | 6a | |
13 |
The Sittaford Mystery | The Enemy Walls | 6a+ |
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