Hornby Crags

This set of cliffs is perched on the very end of the Great Orme. The crags stretch west from just beyond the old lighthouse. In recent years they have seen much re-equipping and new development. This attention has resulted in the area becoming quite a popular venue, particularly on summer afternoons and evenings when the sun comes around onto the various faces. Although the majority of the climbing outlined here is bolt protected the trad climbing is also worth tracking down. The path from Observatory Buttress to the Enemy Walls is exposed and in places narrow, with a huge drop-off to seaward. Care needs to be taken at the base of the climbs to secure the belayer and prevent a \'one off all off situation\'!


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
I'm Spartacus St Tudno's - Upper Tier 2 6c
2
No, I'm Spartacus St Tudno's - Upper Tier 2 6b+
3
Rachel St Tudno's - Upper Tier 1 6a+
4
Gritstone Gorilla St Tudno's - Upper Tier 3 E3 5c
5
Limestone Lemur St Tudno's - Upper Tier 1 E2 5c
6
Fatty St Tudno's - Upper Tier 1 7c+
7
Rest and Be Thankful St Tudno's - Upper Tier 1 6b
8
And All Hell Broke Loose St Tudno's - Upper Tier 1 6b
9
Pile Driver St Tudno's - Upper Tier 1 6a+
10
Thank You Johnny St Tudno's - Upper Tier 1 6a+
11
The Strange Man St Tudno's - Upper Tier E3 6a
12
The Corner St Tudno's - Upper Tier VS 4b
13
Ankle Attack St Tudno's - Upper Tier E3 6a
14
Human Erosion St Tudno's - Upper Tier HVS 5a
15
Julie's Jump St Tudno's - Upper Tier E3 6a
16
Chimney Crack St Tudno's - Upper Tier HS 4b
17
Noggin the Nog St Tudno's - Upper Tier E1 5b
18
Paws St Tudno's - Upper Tier E1 5b
19
Tales of Future Past St Tudno's - Upper Tier E4 6c
20
Puerto Rican Harlem St Tudno's - Upper Tier E4 6c
21
Gritsone Gorilla Direct St Tudno's - Upper Tier E3 6a
22
Goliath St Tudno's - Upper Tier E3 6a
23
Fool's Paradise St Tudno's - Upper Tier E2 5b
1
Space Hunter Variation Teal Wall 1 E2 5b
2
Terminal Breath Teal Wall 1 E5 6b
3
The Space Hunter Teal Wall E3 5c
4
Silent Voices Teal Wall 2 E2 5c
5
The Torch Teal Wall 2 E4 6a
6
The Teal Teal Wall 2 E2 5c
7
Opus Pistorum Teal Wall 2 7b+
8
The Tern Teal Wall 1 6c+
1
The Unforgiven Observatory Buttress 1 7a+
2
You Crack Me Up! (You Really Do!) Observatory Buttress 1 7a
3
Crying in the Shadows Observatory Buttress 1 6b
4
A Nude Place to Creep Observatory Buttress 2 6b+
5
Watcher in the Woods Observatory Buttress 2 6c+
6
When the Lion Feeds Observatory Buttress 3 6c+
7
Life's a Joke Observatory Buttress 1 7a+
8
Grooved Arete Observatory Buttress 2 7b
9
Wind and Worrying Observatory Buttress 2 6b
10
Insanitarium Observatory Buttress 1 6c+
11
Phasic Observatory Buttress 1 6b+
12
A Tale To Tell Observatory Buttress 1 6b
13
Elder Flower Wine Observatory Buttress 6b
14
Windy Miller Observatory Buttress 1 6b+
15
Emus in the Zone Observatory Buttress 1 6c+
16
Alien Forces Observatory Buttress 1 6c+
17
Old Skool Observatory Buttress 1 6b+
18
Klass Act Observatory Buttress 1 6b
19
Loaded Gun Observatory Buttress 1 6b
20
Fish, No Chips Observatory Buttress 1 7a+
21
Bad Sugar Observatory Buttress 2 6c+
22
Brass Observatory Buttress 2 7a
23
Dead Boss Observatory Buttress 2 6c+
24
A Present From Dave Observatory Buttress 1 6a+
25
Stiff End Observatory Buttress 1 6a+
1
Perilous Journey Direct Central Buttress 6b+
2
Angel Cake Central Buttress 6b
3
Potato Famine Central Buttress 6c
4
Pedigree Syzygy Central Buttress 6b
5
Chicago Central Buttress 6a+
6
Afternoon Delight Central Buttress 1 6a
7
Sundowner Central Buttress 1 6a
8
Woo Woo Central Buttress 1 6a+
9
Blue Lagoon Central Buttress 1 6b
10
Goliath Direct Central Buttress 1 6b+
11
David Central Buttress 1 6b
12
Blue Moon Central Buttress 2 6b
13
Neon Noon Central Buttress 2 6b
14
Sticky Mix Central Buttress 2 6b+
15
Rocky Road Central Buttress 3 7a
16
Rough Rider Central Buttress 3 6b+
17
When the Lyon Sleeps Central Buttress 2 7c
18
Old Guys Rule Central Buttress 2 7b
19
Black Dahlia Central Buttress 2 6b+
20
True Mix Central Buttress 2 6b
21
Black Iris Central Buttress 1 6b
22
Black Orchid Central Buttress 1 6b
23
Mel's Magic Carpet Central Buttress 1 6c
1
Red Wine is My Kryptonite The Enemy Walls 1 7a+
2
You Don't Make Friends with Salad The Enemy Walls 7c
3
Back on Track The Enemy Walls 1 7a+
4
Flash - Pumped! The Enemy Walls 1 7a+
5
The Hand is Faster Than the Eye The Enemy Walls 7a+
6
The Mysterium The Enemy Walls 1 7a+
7
Hokey Wokey Dokey The Enemy Walls 6b
8
Mrs. Warren's Profession The Enemy Walls 1 6c
9
Irena Sendler The Enemy Walls 1 6c
10
The Woke Brigade The Enemy Walls 1 6a+
11
Cancel Culture The Enemy Walls 1 6a+
12
Snowflake The Enemy Walls 6a
13
The Sittaford Mystery The Enemy Walls 6a+

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