Blackers Hole contains some of the greatest challenges available to climbers along Britain\'s south coast, and for most the view of the Great Cave\'s twenty five metre roof comes as a shock to the system on first acquaintance. This vast cavern provides the setting for cutting edge routes such as Infinite Gravity and Endeavour. Further east the cave gives way to slightly less-steep territory on its left-hand side, but the base changes from boulders to sea, making access difficult and the climbs even more adventurous. It is here that a number of long and difficult trad adventures wend their way, with the likes of Polaris and The Aquatic Ape being amongst Swanage\'s most serious undertakings. However, there is more on offer here, in the shape of roof-based sport routes in the quarry, and some secluded (though accessible) trad routes on the shorter walls to the east of the Great Cave.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Frank's Little Secret | Polaris Area | 1 | E1 5b |
2 |
Polaris | Polaris Area | 3 | E5 6a |
3 |
Exchange of Fire | Polaris Area | 1 | E5 6a |
4 |
Nuke | Polaris Area | 1 | E4 6a |
5 |
Bolt the Blue Sea | Polaris Area | 1 | E5 6b |
6 |
Weapons of Sound | Polaris Area | E5 6a | |
7 |
Enter the Void | Polaris Area | 2 | E6 6b |
8 |
The Aquatic Ape | Polaris Area | 3 | E6 6b |
9 |
The Schwarzechild Radius | Polaris Area | 3 | 8a+ |
1 |
Laughing Arthur | The Great Cave | 3 | E8 6b |
2 |
Coma 2 | The Great Cave | E5 6b | |
3 |
Forever Laughing | The Great Cave | 3 | 7c+ |
4 |
Endeavour | The Great Cave | 3 | 8c |
5 |
Infinite Gravity | The Great Cave | 3 | 8a+ |
6 |
Naked and Savage | The Great Cave | 3 | E7 6b |
7 |
Procrastinating Giant | The Great Cave | 3 | E6 6a |
8 |
Monsters of Rock | The Great Cave | 3 | E7 6b |
9 |
Giantslayer | The Great Cave | 2 | E5 6a |
10 |
Cold Empty Gun | The Great Cave | 1 | E6 6a |
11 |
Coercri | The Great Cave | 1 | E4 6a |
12 |
Cosa Nostra | The Great Cave | 1 | E2 5c |
1 |
Freedom Fighter | The Quarry | 1 | 7a |
2 |
Crack Gang Killing | The Quarry | 1 | 7b |
3 |
Roof Supreme | The Quarry | 2 | 7b+ |
4 |
Sunyata | The Quarry | 2 | 7b |
5 |
The Energy, the Faith, the Devotion | The Quarry | 2 | 7c+ |
6 |
Plasma Stream | The Quarry | 2 | 7c |
7 |
The Nolans Meet Impulse Manslaughter | The Quarry | 1 | 7a+ |
8 |
Swimming in Jugs | The Quarry | 1 | E3 5c |
9 |
Les Hommes en Noir | The Quarry | E3 5c | |
1 |
Zig-Zag | Zig-Zag Area | VS 4c | |
2 |
Parallel Lines | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | HVS 5a |
3 |
Straight Lines | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | E1 5b |
4 |
Credit in the Straight World | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | E4 6a |
5 |
Absence Makes the Heart... | Zig-Zag Area | 2 | E3 6a |
6 |
Street Fighting Years | Zig-Zag Area | 3 | E7 6c |
7 |
Full Circle | Zig-Zag Area | 2 | E7 6c |
8 |
A Dose of the Malhams | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | E6 6b |
9 |
Sport Free World! | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | E3 5c |
10 |
Mr Fantastic Totally Stroptastic | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | E1 5b |
11 |
Rufty's Roll Up | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | E1 5b |
12 |
Tobacco Road | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | VS 4c |
13 |
Snout | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | E1 5b |
14 |
The Vapour Edge | Zig-Zag Area | 2 | E1 5b |
15 |
Parsons Pleasure | Zig-Zag Area | 1 | VS 4c |
16 |
Havana | Zig-Zag Area | 2 | E4 6b |
17 |
The Equalizer | Zig-Zag Area | 2 | E6 6b |
18 |
Centrepiece | Zig-Zag Area | 2 | E5 6c |
19 |
Not Forgotten, No Fade Away | Zig-Zag Area | 2 | E5 6b |
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