Guillemot Ledge

Guillemot and Cormorant Ledges are contiguous sections of cliff, the West Face of Guillemot Ledge being the highest of all the Swanage climbing sites. These are big cliffs that offer up a wide selection of both single and multi-pitch traditional climbs which, are fairly adventurous undertakings; its extreme lines being amongst the most challenging in the south, combining tough climbing in wild and exposed situations. Guillemot Ledge\'s East Face and the cluster of lines at the eastern end of Cormorant Ledge are some of Swanage\'s most frequented multi-pitch trad routes, sporting plenty of mid-grade lines the majority have good climbing and rock. The East Face of Guillemot Ledge and Cormorant ledge have in the past had their tops quarried which, means that the finishes to the routes are often more stable that usually encountered hereabouts. A number of the climbs in this area rely on fixed protection from ageing pegs - these should be carefully inspected and backed-up where possible.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Dougal the Great West Face 2 E6 6c
2
Race for the Oasis West Face 1 E5 6a
3
Sons of Pioneers West Face 1 E6 6b
4
Tudor Rose West Face 3 E2 5b
5
Facedancin' West Face 3 E3 6a
6
Oceanid West Face 2 E2 5b
7
Fly Crazy But Free West Face 2 E5 6b
8
Warlord West Face 3 E4 6a
9
Vikings West Face 2 E4 6a
10
Caiaphas West Face 1 E3 5c
11
Deaf Mosaic West Face 1 E6 6c
12
Valkyrie West Face VS 4b
13
Be-Bop-Deluxe West Face 1 E2 5b
14
Valkyrie Buttress Direct West Face 1 HVS 5a
15
Zo Zo West Face 1 VS 4b
16
No Mistaking West Face 2 E3 5c
17
Mistaken Identity West Face 2 VS 4c
18
True Identity West Face 2 HVS 5a
1
Outside The Wire East Face E1 5b
2
Exit Chimney Two - The Sequel East Face 1 E4 6a
3
Sapphire East Face 2 E2 5b
4
The Spook East Face 3 E1 5b
5
Toiler on the Sea East Face 1 E5 6b
6
August Angie East Face 1 E1 5b
7
Necromancy East Face 1 E4 5c
8
The Heat East Face 1 E4 5c
9
The Big Heat East Face 2 E4 6a
10
MaƱana East Face 1 HVS 5a
11
Funeral Pyre East Face 1 E5 5c
12
Tensor II East Face 3 VS 5a
13
Strapiombo East Face 2 HVS 5b
14
Helen's Return East Face 1 E2 5b
15
Ledgend East Face 1 HS 4b
16
Graffiti Bombers of New York City East Face 1 E2 5c
17
Ledgend Direct East Face 2 HVS 5a
18
Batt Crack East Face 2 VS 4c
19
Vampire Direct East Face 2 E1 5b
20
Vampire East Face 2 HVS 5a
21
Ever-heady East Face 1 E3 6a
22
The Crevice East Face 1 VS 4c
23
Friends from the Deep East Face 2 E3 5c
24
Yellow Belly Wall East Face 1 E5 6b
25
Yellow Wall East Face 2 E1 5b
26
Robud East Face 2 HVS 5a
27
Younger Days East Face 1 E3 6a

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