Guillemot and Cormorant Ledges are contiguous sections of cliff, the West Face of Guillemot Ledge being the highest of all the Swanage climbing sites. These are big cliffs that offer up a wide selection of both single and multi-pitch traditional climbs which, are fairly adventurous undertakings; its extreme lines being amongst the most challenging in the south, combining tough climbing in wild and exposed situations. Guillemot Ledge\'s East Face and the cluster of lines at the eastern end of Cormorant Ledge are some of Swanage\'s most frequented multi-pitch trad routes, sporting plenty of mid-grade lines the majority have good climbing and rock. The East Face of Guillemot Ledge and Cormorant ledge have in the past had their tops quarried which, means that the finishes to the routes are often more stable that usually encountered hereabouts. A number of the climbs in this area rely on fixed protection from ageing pegs - these should be carefully inspected and backed-up where possible.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Dougal the Great | West Face | 2 | E6 6c |
2 |
Race for the Oasis | West Face | 1 | E5 6a |
3 |
Sons of Pioneers | West Face | 1 | E6 6b |
4 |
Tudor Rose | West Face | 3 | E2 5b |
5 |
Facedancin' | West Face | 3 | E3 6a |
6 |
Oceanid | West Face | 2 | E2 5b |
7 |
Fly Crazy But Free | West Face | 2 | E5 6b |
8 |
Warlord | West Face | 3 | E4 6a |
9 |
Vikings | West Face | 2 | E4 6a |
10 |
Caiaphas | West Face | 1 | E3 5c |
11 |
Deaf Mosaic | West Face | 1 | E6 6c |
12 |
Valkyrie | West Face | VS 4b | |
13 |
Be-Bop-Deluxe | West Face | 1 | E2 5b |
14 |
Valkyrie Buttress Direct | West Face | 1 | HVS 5a |
15 |
Zo Zo | West Face | 1 | VS 4b |
16 |
No Mistaking | West Face | 2 | E3 5c |
17 |
Mistaken Identity | West Face | 2 | VS 4c |
18 |
True Identity | West Face | 2 | HVS 5a |
1 |
Outside The Wire | East Face | E1 5b | |
2 |
Exit Chimney Two - The Sequel | East Face | 1 | E4 6a |
3 |
Sapphire | East Face | 2 | E2 5b |
4 |
The Spook | East Face | 3 | E1 5b |
5 |
Toiler on the Sea | East Face | 1 | E5 6b |
6 |
August Angie | East Face | 1 | E1 5b |
7 |
Necromancy | East Face | 1 | E4 5c |
8 |
The Heat | East Face | 1 | E4 5c |
9 |
The Big Heat | East Face | 2 | E4 6a |
10 |
MaƱana | East Face | 1 | HVS 5a |
11 |
Funeral Pyre | East Face | 1 | E5 5c |
12 |
Tensor II | East Face | 3 | VS 5a |
13 |
Strapiombo | East Face | 2 | HVS 5b |
14 |
Helen's Return | East Face | 1 | E2 5b |
15 |
Ledgend | East Face | 1 | HS 4b |
16 |
Graffiti Bombers of New York City | East Face | 1 | E2 5c |
17 |
Ledgend Direct | East Face | 2 | HVS 5a |
18 |
Batt Crack | East Face | 2 | VS 4c |
19 |
Vampire Direct | East Face | 2 | E1 5b |
20 |
Vampire | East Face | 2 | HVS 5a |
21 |
Ever-heady | East Face | 1 | E3 6a |
22 |
The Crevice | East Face | 1 | VS 4c |
23 |
Friends from the Deep | East Face | 2 | E3 5c |
24 |
Yellow Belly Wall | East Face | 1 | E5 6b |
25 |
Yellow Wall | East Face | 2 | E1 5b |
26 |
Robud | East Face | 2 | HVS 5a |
27 |
Younger Days | East Face | 1 | E3 6a |
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