Hedbury

The Hedbury and Smokey Hole areas encompass four very different crags to the west of Dancing Ledge. The main interest for most climbers will be Hedbury Quarry, which is a similar but more compact version of the main quarry at Dancing Ledge. The rock here is steep and solid and dotted with flowstone holds. It is a good place for an afternoon\'s sport climbing in winter, getting lots of sun and being set back away from the sea. Just around the corner from the quarry is the atmospheric Hedbury Big Cove with its leaning walls, massive overhangs, slightly unstable rock and hard trad routes. Smokey Hole, on the other hand, is more solid and less steep than Hedbury Big Cove but has a similar set of high quality, high grade trad routes in a sensational setting. The tucked away Topmast Quarry has three steep and sheltered sport routes.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
What a Mitty Mike's Corner 1 6a
2
Flying Pigs Mike's Corner 1 6c
3
Cheese Balls! Mike's Corner 5c
1
Antisocially Distant The Quarry 5c
2
Tethered by Gravity The Quarry 1 4c
3
New Beginnings The Quarry 1 5c
4
Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus The Quarry 1 5c
5
Ammonitemare The Quarry 2 6a+
6
Of Mice and Men The Quarry 2 6b
7
Bad Day The Quarry 1 6c+
8
One More Cheese Sarnie The Quarry 1 6c
9
Moves for the Masses The Quarry 2 6a+
10
Hangs Like a Dead Man The Quarry 2 6c
11
Under Starters Orders/Realm of Radical Cool The Quarry 1 7a+
12
Jumping the Gun The Quarry 2 6b
13
Mouth Breather The Quarry 1 7c
14
Sureshot The Quarry 2 6c
15
Sexy Beast The Quarry 2 7a
16
Alice In Pumpland The Quarry 1 7a
17
Cinderella's Big Score The Quarry 2 7c
18
It Can't be Denied Direct The Quarry 2 7b+
19
It Can't be Denied The Quarry 2 7b
20
Dry Time Climb Direct The Quarry 1 6a
21
Dry Time Climb The Quarry 1 5a
22
Bop Ceroc The Quarry 1 6b+
23
Glue Crux Clan The Quarry 1 6c
24
Puff Adder The Quarry 1 6a
25
Produced by Fred Quimby The Quarry 1 6b+
26
Strange Devices The Quarry 1 6a+
27
Don's Long Gone The Quarry 1 6b+
28
Mindless Optimism The Quarry 1 6b+
29
New Age, New Style The Quarry 1 5c
30
Very Ordinary Route The Quarry 1 2a
31
Another Contribution The Quarry 1 2a
32
Moral Flexibility The Quarry 1 5a
33
Sea View The Quarry 1 3a
1
The Balrog The Big Cove 1 VS 5a
2
Head in the Clouds The Big Cove 1 E4 6a
3
Under the Sky, Above the Sea The Big Cove 1 E5 6b
4
Sheffield Uber Alles The Big Cove 2 E6 6b
5
The Jesus Lizard The Big Cove 2 E6 6b
6
Once in the Jungle The Big Cove 2 E6 6b
7
Nowhere to Run The Big Cove 3 E6 6b
8
The Fabulous Professor Panic The Big Cove 3 E5 6a
9
Figurehead The Big Cove 2 E2 5b
1
Slow Dive Smokey Hole 1 E6 6b
2
Diving for Pearls Smokey Hole 2 E6 6b
3
Vapour Trail Smokey Hole 3 E7 6b
4
Rocket USA Smokey Hole 2 E6 6b
5
Aquamarine Smokey Hole 2 5a S2
6
Marvellous Maggs Smokey Hole 2 6a+ S1
7
Zircon Smokey Hole 2 6a+ S1
8
Gemzone Smokey Hole 6b+ S0
9
Jargoniser Smokey Hole 1 6a+ S1
10
Bar Code Smokey Hole 2 7b
11
Bar King Mad Smokey Hole 1 7a+
12
Isobar Smokey Hole 7a
13
Bar None Smokey Hole 6c

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